Frogspawn problem Please help
- Thread starter thompson2224
- Start date
thompson2224
New member
What can I do to help the frogspawn if it isn't fully acclimated? It was really nice and opened for the first few days then it went from green to a clear green then to what it is now
thompson2224
New member
Okay ill do that. Do you think it is still okay at this point?
StevieD
New member
I was told when I purchased mine that they are pretty hardy corals and can handle some stress(kinda like clown fish)...If you were to take it out, return it, and go back and get it when your tank is right, you would just be adding more stress...I would leave it and fix your tank...Heck, maybe even move it to a little shadier spot to alleviate some stress? Fix the tank and keep an eye on it is all I can tell ya...good luck
thompson2224
New member
Okay thanks. Ill give it my best shot. How will I know if it is dead or beyond the point of healing? If it gets to that point do I take it out or let it dissengrate naturally?
MondoBongo
Obligate Feeder Obsessed
When you say from green to clear green, you mean losing color, going translucent, or bleaching?
It could be stressed from the change in lighting. As a general rule I give most new additions some time to acclimate to my lighting.
Bleaching can happen for various reasons though. Not all just from lighting.
That's one of the difficult things about coral. The manifestation of the symptoms can be the same or similar for a range of problems.
As for the alk test, I got a Hannah checker a while back that I love. It was about $60 and is really easy to use.
I've also used the seachem alk test, both the normal one that comes with a pH kit and the fancy one that does carbonate alkalinity. They both did well for me. Although the simple one drifted over time to be fairly inaccurate. That happens when reagents get old though. Nice thing about it is that they included a reference sample, so I always have a known quantity to gauge it against.
Salifert is also supposed to be a good brand of test kits.
I would stay away from API and strip tests. I've had nothing but issues with them.
It could be stressed from the change in lighting. As a general rule I give most new additions some time to acclimate to my lighting.
Bleaching can happen for various reasons though. Not all just from lighting.
That's one of the difficult things about coral. The manifestation of the symptoms can be the same or similar for a range of problems.
As for the alk test, I got a Hannah checker a while back that I love. It was about $60 and is really easy to use.
I've also used the seachem alk test, both the normal one that comes with a pH kit and the fancy one that does carbonate alkalinity. They both did well for me. Although the simple one drifted over time to be fairly inaccurate. That happens when reagents get old though. Nice thing about it is that they included a reference sample, so I always have a known quantity to gauge it against.
Salifert is also supposed to be a good brand of test kits.
I would stay away from API and strip tests. I've had nothing but issues with them.
thompson2224
New member
Yes i mean it began to go translucent. How long do they usually take to get used to the light?
MondoBongo
Obligate Feeder Obsessed
Are you running any carbon? Leathers and zoas love to wage chemical warfare on everything around them. Could be that an existing soft coral didn't take too kindly to The new guy.
Softies really only have two weapons to keep other corals at bay. They don't have sweeper tentacles or mesenterial filaments. They basically just grow fast and some give off wicked chemical concoctions.
Since removing nearly all of my soft corals I have seen a dramatic growth increase in a few of my corals that have been with me for some time. Of course my experience is anecdotal at best, but it is something to consider.
As far as the acclimation goes, it depends on the piece and where it's final placement will be. Usually at least a week, sometimes longer, sometimes shorter.
Softies really only have two weapons to keep other corals at bay. They don't have sweeper tentacles or mesenterial filaments. They basically just grow fast and some give off wicked chemical concoctions.
Since removing nearly all of my soft corals I have seen a dramatic growth increase in a few of my corals that have been with me for some time. Of course my experience is anecdotal at best, but it is something to consider.
As far as the acclimation goes, it depends on the piece and where it's final placement will be. Usually at least a week, sometimes longer, sometimes shorter.
thompson2224
New member
Yeah I run carbon all the time. I have an in tank filter with carbon since its a small tank to keep unwanted chemicals low and to aid the protein skimmer. I moved it from a medium to high flow area to a much lower flow area at the bottom of the tank once it started acting like this. That was 3 days ago now
Spyderturbo007
New member
The easiest way to drop your salinity is to do a couple water changes using water that is of lower salinity than what is in the tank. For example, do a 5g water change with water at 1.018. You'll want to adjust those numbers for you tank size and schedule.
It would be very helpful if you could get the actual test results from the LFS along with an idea of what test kits they use to perform the testing.
Is there any reason that you don't have your own test kits? You can pick up the Red Sea Foundation Kit that includes Mg, Alk & Ca for $50 from BRS.The Algae Control Kit that includes Nitrate and Phosphate runs $50.
So for $100, you can do your own testing.
Also, what did you use to calibrate your Refractometer?
It would be very helpful if you could get the actual test results from the LFS along with an idea of what test kits they use to perform the testing.
Is there any reason that you don't have your own test kits? You can pick up the Red Sea Foundation Kit that includes Mg, Alk & Ca for $50 from BRS.The Algae Control Kit that includes Nitrate and Phosphate runs $50.
So for $100, you can do your own testing.
Also, what did you use to calibrate your Refractometer?
thompson2224
New member
I have my own test kit for ph, ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, and salinity. I checked freshwater and then set it back to salinity of 1.000
Spyderturbo007
New member
I would highly recommend purchasing your own kits. It is going to make your life much easier and be better for your animals.
You need to calibrate your refractometer with a calibration solution and not RO/DI. I wouldn't trust whatever reading your got after doing the calibration, so you probably shouldn't adjust your salinity until you do.
thompson2224
New member
Okay I will buy that and use that. Thanks
