Frustrated with tank.

reefergeorge

reefergeorge

New member
I have been living with what I believe is ich in my tank for almost a year. Since the beginning of summer my porcupine puffer has been showing the dreaded spots all over his back. The other fish show a spot every once in a while. Everyone acts, and eats fine.
I think it is time to finally fix the problem, but it would almost be easier to start over with new fish, than to setup a hospital tank for a 6" porcupine puffer, 5" tang, 2" Picasso trigger, 3" coral beauty, and 4" foxface. I have an empty 30, and 20L, but those just wont cut it.
What do you guys think?
Will it get better when the temp starts going down? What size tank would I need for a hospital tank?
 
i would just make sure the params are in check and deal with the temp issue. I have never treated for ich and dont ever plan to.
 
It's not bad. It went up to 83. I put a couple clip on fans on it, and got it down to 80. Nitrates <5, sg 1.025, kh 10 drops?, ph 8.2.
I feed pretty much everything from crab legs, clams musssels, formula 2, trigger formula, dwarf angel formula, Rod's, silversides, and red, and green nori. I soak most of the food in selcon, vitachem, and just picked up some garlic.
I'm just frustrated. The puffer is my favorite fish, and maybe it is just time for an upgrade.
 
The thing that get me is that if it is ich, and tangs are supposed to be ich magnets. Then why is the tang the only fish that has never shown visible signs.
I tried getting a pic of the puffer, but it wouldn't show up.
I think I'm just going to keep a close eye on things, and see what happens. I'll probably set up the 30 just in case.
Thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13149847#post13149847 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ChrisKirkland
How much does your PH fluctuate between day and night or during the day?
Click to expand...

I don't know. I always check it around 8pm. I'll check it in the morning. I also have a 20 gallon fuge on reverse lighting. So I don't think it should swing that much.

As for the garlic. I just got some from PR last weekend. So we will see if it helps. I have been soaking every other feeding.
 
i would just make sure they eat, ive never had a problem my fish when they get stressed show it for two days i just feed heavy and it always gos away
 
I had a porcupine puffer in old 180 gallon and I sold it to a friend with a 55 and he only had problems with it. He sold it back to me and after I got it back it was fine. Myself I believe the pf needs a lot of room. Just my opinion:mixed:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13149897#post13149897 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reefergeorge
I don't know. I always check it around 8pm. I'll check it in the morning. I also have a 20 gallon fuge on reverse lighting. So I don't think it should swing that much.

As for the garlic. I just got some from PR last weekend. So we will see if it helps. I have been soaking every other feeding.
Click to expand...

I would Make sure the PH swing is minimal, and then keep an eye on the alkalinity. Your KH what test kit are you using can you convert to PPM (parts per million)
 
though I am sure a puffer wouldn't let a cleaner shrimp near its back without being in its mouth first, how would a sixline or even a cleaner wrasse hold up against them?

I know I had a bad ich problem a couple of years ago and two cleaner shrimp cleared the issue up quick
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13150868#post13150868 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by breutus
though I am sure a puffer wouldn't let a cleaner shrimp near its back without being in its mouth first,
Click to expand...

I had a cleaner shrimp in with him for over a year. Then I added the trigger, and it was snack within a month.
Thanks for the ideas.
 
My brother tried a cleaner wrasse and it did work for a while but eventually the puffer got tired of the wrasse harassing it so it had lunch. I would say try to get the fish out into a different system by its self for a couple weeks to see if anything will change.
 
A UV unit would aid in the Ich issue. I wouldn't run it non-stop but when you see the Ich, I'd run it for a week and then shut it back off. I'm battling Ich myself and considering the UV unit to aid in ridding it.
 
When I was new I battled ick for 3 months.

Finally I got some medicine in a vial from MS.
Instead of dosing the water like the instructions say, they told me to thaw out a shrimp cube and sprinkle this stuff on there like your heavily salting fries.
Ick was gone in a week.
Ick came back a year later, nipped it in the butt before it really started to get going.
 
Dert,

What was the med that you got from ms?

I don't believe that the jury is in with regard to garlic. I read that one strong theory is that it stimulates the appetite which in turn keeps the fish healthy to allow it's own internal defenses to combat the ich.

It kind of sounds like a perfect storm that might be at work. Fluctuating temps, high temps (lowered available oxygen) , fluctuating water quality.

I have read where some of the most damaging ich gets deep into the gills where cleaners cant get to them. This is why dips tend to be more successful, but if they go right back into the tank, they will probably just get it again and the life cycle of the ich can be several months.

There are several good threads in the disease forum on this. I personally feel that most fish die from the treatment and not from the disease.

Faz
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

E
4x2x2 Acrylic reel tank and stand for sale
Replies
4
Views
254
ebe
E
Tamara Marshall
Comprehensive Article About Nitrofurazone - Manta Systems Article
Replies
0
Views
178
Tamara Marshall
Tamara Marshall
Tamara Marshall
Comprehensive Article About Nitrofurazone - Manta Systems Article
Replies
0
Views
212
Tamara Marshall
Tamara Marshall
J
  • Question Question
refugium help
Replies
4
Views
285
wvned
wvned
S
Reef Tank for Sale (fish, corals, equipment, etc)
Replies
6
Views
304
chewey
C
Back
Top