Full Spectrum DIY guide

[dsdaley77]

Well after stalking the Chinese Led thread for some time now I have come to this conclusion, well one of two The first option will be 2 customized units from-
http://m.alibaba.com/product-gs/613...le_LED_Aquarium_Light_with/productdetail.html
I like that the moonlights are 1W so not as bright as the 3's and I think they are the epistars also which means a little less bright as well if I understand the Chinese thread. I plan on opening the unit once I get it to mod the layout if needed and to replace half the cool whites with warmer whites (6700 or so). I will not add any greens or reds in this option as with the full spectrum whites it should be covered. I will accent the LEDs with these additions: 3 Ecoxotic 12 in stunner strips on an inline dimmer (2 blue/1 12000K) and (2) 12 in strips of this lighting string which is True 420 nm - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aquarium-Re...ultDomain_0&hash=item3f1909e450#ht_500wt_1290
Seems like all my bases should be covered with this set up.

The second option would be this unit (2 of them), customized with these LEDs,

2- 660 nm Red
2x- 520 nm Green
6x- 410-420 nm UV-Violet
6x- 450-455nm*Blue
19x- 440-445nm*Royal Blue
4x- 3000-3500k*Warm White
8x- 6000-6500k*Pure White
8x- 10,000-12,000k*Cool White

The unit will come with these pre installed and specifically is a unit being built from input in the Chinese led thread "new design model with LCD/sunrise/sunset/advanced heating sink/Secondary optical lens option, etc.." should be similar in layout to the D-120 but with much more options. With this light I would still include 3 Ecoxotic 12 in stunner strips on an inline dimmer (2 blue/1 12000K) and (2) 12 in strips of this lighting string which is True 420 nm - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aquarium-Re...ultDomain_0&hash=item3f1909e450#ht_500wt_1290

What would you change if you would and why? Just curious as this is most likely the single most important part to our livelyhoods

 

[Nanofreak79]

Well after stalking the Chinese Led thread for some time now I have come to this conclusion, well one of two The first option will be 2 customized units from-
http://m.alibaba.com/product-gs/613...le_LED_Aquarium_Light_with/productdetail.html
I like that the moonlights are 1W so not as bright as the 3's and I think they are the epistars also which means a little less bright as well if I understand the Chinese thread. I plan on opening the unit once I get it to mod the layout if needed and to replace half the cool whites with warmer whites (6700 or so). I will not add any greens or reds in this option as with the full spectrum whites it should be covered. I will accent the LEDs with these additions: 3 Ecoxotic 12 in stunner strips on an inline dimmer (2 blue/1 12000K) and (2) 12 in strips of this lighting string which is True 420 nm - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aquarium-Re...ultDomain_0&hash=item3f1909e450#ht_500wt_1290
Seems like all my bases should be covered with this set up.

The second option would be this unit (2 of them), customized with these LEDs,

2- 660 nm Red
2x- 520 nm Green
6x- 410-420 nm UV-Violet
6x- 450-455nm*Blue
19x- 440-445nm*Royal Blue
4x- 3000-3500k*Warm White
8x- 6000-6500k*Pure White
8x- 10,000-12,000k*Cool White

The unit will come with these pre installed and specifically is a unit being built from input in the Chinese led thread "new design model with LCD/sunrise/sunset/advanced heating sink/Secondary optical lens option, etc.." should be similar in layout to the D-120 but with much more options. With this light I would still include 3 Ecoxotic 12 in stunner strips on an inline dimmer (2 blue/1 12000K) and (2) 12 in strips of this lighting string which is True 420 nm - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aquarium-Re...ultDomain_0&hash=item3f1909e450#ht_500wt_1290

What would you change if you would and why? Just curious as this is most likely the single most important part to our livelyhoods

Hello, and thanks for sharing.
I'm thinking first that your still being at the mercy of someone else's fixture. I like the idea of the second fixture, it's using different colors and seems to have much more versatility. It deffinetly needs more RB's, you'll need them using the warmer or neutral whites. It's not that you want your tank to have an overpowering blue feel, but IME it's going to look very yellow and overpowering. Also are you going to be able to control these channels separately? If not you may run into issues with colors looking a little off. As far as the ecoxotic strips they make great stuff, but why add these when you could just make the fixture itself one whole stand alone unit? I would skip the first unit if it were me, and go with the second. If you don't want to change anything, I think it's a good start although I still question the idea of being at the mercy of a commercially made fixture that might need to be tweaked a little more once you get it over your tank. Will you be able to change the leds?As far as moonlights go Ive steered away from the blue. They are very bright and although look cool for us to view our tanks for the most part they are too bright to give the fish and corals a sufficient day and night cycle. Some are now using a very dim white moonlight, which is more natural but not as aesthetically pleasing. This would still allow you to do the moon phases and cycles for spawning and breeding purposes if you wish. Or the 1W blues you speak of will not really harm your fish and can be used if you like, I'm just giving my opinion. I hope this helps somewhat? From what I see of the second option, even if you do add the strips should net you an overall good color rendition, just leave yourself room to tweak the spectrum. Lastly I need to check out the Chinese led thread, I haven't really looked at it much. The only experience I have with them is the old unit I had which was the 1W non dimmable version. Which obviously left something to be desired. Good luck and let everyone know what you plan/end up doing!

 

[dsdaley77]

Great reflection. Thanks.
Yes the Chinese fixtures have come a long way in a very short time. The D-120 is a 55piece (3w bulbs runing at arround 2w) unit that certain companies are now allowing us reefers to "Personally customize" by providing number of bulbs, direct placement including the ability to design a basic grid with several options. Bhazard and some others that post frequently in the Chinese led thread can provide more info as I'm still kinda noob( hate to admit I don't know all.... Shhhhh don't tell my wife )
The new fixture will have a built in controller and 3 dimmable channels. Curious to see the price when it comes out to us RC reefers as we are the test market for them and they have used advice snd suggestions from us directly to design this new model. ( if you can't tell I am pretty excited) as far as the stunners, I already own all but the uv strip so my intent was to use it if I have it

Generally I am pretty handy, I built most of my tank components myself but not sure of my electrician/ engineering skills. The chinese fixtures they are putting out currently are good options for someone like myself who doesn't have much experience with building a lighting fixture This way I can use what I can follow in these threads to make the little tweaks you speak of if needed.

 

[Nanofreak79]

I thought I would add these as a visual for people!

 

[wackeeash]

^ What exactly is a sufficient amount of LED lights for light-intensive corals you may ask? Littlejohn recommends a LED density of around 24 LEDs per square foot for 10- to 12-inch deep tanks, 36 per square foot or 12- to 18-inch tanks and 48 per square foot for tanks 18 to 24 inches deep using a nominal drive current he outlined in the previous post here at Reef Builders.

Are these numbers right(for Cree 3w LED)? If so, I'm gonna have to rethink my entire build that I have planned. That would be a LOT of LEDs on this small aquarium, lol. I was planning 24 LEDs for my 36 gal bowfront that is 20 inches deep, not including my moon lights etc.

 

[dsdaley77]

Here is another that was shared with me if useful.

 

[dsdaley77]

Are these numbers right(for Cree 3w LED)? If so, I'm gonna have to rethink my entire build that I have planned. That would be a LOT of LEDs on this small aquarium, lol. I was planning 24 LEDs for my 36 gal bowfront that is 20 inches deep, not including my moon lights etc.

I think they are referring to 1W LEDs, in which case yeah you'd need about that many with 3W you get much more everything.

Anyone disagree?

 

[bhazard451]

Are these numbers right(for Cree 3w LED)? If so, I'm gonna have to rethink my entire build that I have planned. That would be a LOT of LEDs on this small aquarium, lol. I was planning 24 LEDs for my 36 gal bowfront that is 20 inches deep, not including my moon lights etc.

24 is a little low. I run 48 placed close together, and my 34 gallon nano does extremely well with it. Its better to err on the side of overdoing it and dialing it down, than to not have enough. Closer placement of the leds helps prevent the disco effect in the sand as well.

 

[bhazard451]

Lastly I need to check out the Chinese led thread, I haven't really looked at it much. The only experience I have with them is the old unit I had which was the 1W non dimmable version. Which obviously left something to be desired. Good luck and let everyone know what you plan/end up doing!

It has become a good alternative to DIY with the ability to pick and choose the entire layout of the fixtures. Some (but not all) of the units have bridgelux/epistar leds soldered in series via pcb boards. All you would need to do to replace leds, would be to buy a different color bridgelux led not on a star, and solder it in place of the old one. Its much easier than soldering wires. One of the companies even ships spare leds of your choosing with the fixture just for this purpose. The spare leds, DIY layouts, and many more new features are all based on our feedback to them.

They're starting to include lcd sunrise/sunset controllers into the fixtures now too for a good price. It's been interesting, but the units can vary greatly from company to company despite similar specs.

 

[dsdaley77]

Well said

 

[dunk373]

Are these numbers right(for Cree 3w LED)? If so, I'm gonna have to rethink my entire build that I have planned. That would be a LOT of LEDs on this small aquarium, lol. I was planning 24 LEDs for my 36 gal bowfront that is 20 inches deep, not including my moon lights etc.

Lol I was thinking the same thing It seems thay may be talking about much less powerful ones. I am adding around 22 to a 20L and think its too much but mowt will be underpowered.

 

[Nanofreak79]

Are these numbers right(for Cree 3w LED)? If so, I'm gonna have to rethink my entire build that I have planned. That would be a LOT of LEDs on this small aquarium, lol. I was planning 24 LEDs for my 36 gal bowfront that is 20 inches deep, not including my moon lights etc.

I think you'll find that it can vary. Is this guy the go to source for the exact amount you need? NO! But I will say this most major brand LEDs don't vary by much in intensity and output. This being said, I don't fall into the whole Cree is better idea either. I personally use bridglux or rebel, and I love them. Anyway, I'm getting off point......I would use it as a rule of thumb. Example, I now have 70 LEDs on my 40B. I think you can stick with what you have, or if it were me I'd leave room for additional LEDs. Use the 24 as your base colors and add the exotics to that.

 

[Nanofreak79]

It has become a good alternative to DIY with the ability to pick and choose the entire layout of the fixtures. Some (but not all) of the units have bridgelux/epistar leds soldered in series via pcb boards. All you would need to do to replace leds, would be to buy a different color bridgelux led not on a star, and solder it in place of the old one. Its much easier than soldering wires. One of the companies even ships spare leds of your choosing with the fixture just for this purpose. The spare leds, DIY layouts, and many more new features are all based on our feedback to them.

They're starting to include lcd sunrise/sunset controllers into the fixtures now too for a good price. It's been interesting, but the units can vary greatly from company to company despite similar specs.

Very cool man! I'm trying to find time to check it all out. It seems like there really trying to do something with these fixtures, and that's great. Thanks for the info!

 

[Nanofreak79]

Lol I was thinking the same thing It seems thay may be talking about much less powerful ones. I am adding around 22 to a 20L and think its too much but mowt will be underpowered.

Let me say, that in no way do I know everything. I do however feel. Like I have quite a bit of good and bad experience with DIY. This thread is for everyone to help better our reefs by sharing info. I posted the article mostly for the optics piece, but do agree somewhat with using more LEDs. Anyway..... For yours I don't think 24 would be too many! IMO

 

[Nanofreak79]

24 is a little low. I run 48 placed close together, and my 34 gallon nano does extremely well with it. Its better to err on the side of overdoing it and dialing it down, than to not have enough. Closer placement of the leds helps prevent the disco effect in the sand as well.

Yes this is a good point! For those of you doing builds, groupings of LEDs works a lot better than rows. I agree on more is better, it's pretty amazing the amount of light corals can take, when acclimated.

 

[dsdaley77]

And sorry if I steered the thread the wrong way, I like DIY just not edumacated enough to go start to finish. ( well I probably am just never tried). So quick question in the DIY fashion..... If I was to go with the color layout below, what additional parts would I need to build a ready fixture? It is for a 75 standard with the center brace. Light fixture underside surface to reef floor would be around 24 inches. I am curious can a fixture be built all in one that would be long enough to just have one unit?
With the longer unit desired I changed the number of bulbs to ensure even spread, is that the proper way? How do you know what board to use and how many bulbs it can fit?

4x- 660 nm Red
4x- 520 nm Green
6x- 410-420 nm UV-Violet
10x- 450-455nm*Blue
22x- 440-445nm*Royal Blue
4x- 3000-3500k*Warm White
8x- 6000-6500k*Pure White
8x- 10,000-12,000k*Cool White

 

[dsdaley77]

Is it possible to control each color individually to dial in a truly custom spectrum? I know that's 8 dimmers but if I'm gonna think about doin it might as well go big

 

[wackeeash]

dsdaley - you can do all one unit, sites like heatsinkusa have heatsinks as long as 70 inches and you can order them by the inch. And yeah, you can put drivers on the individual colors, but its gonna cost.

As far as the LED I'm planning, I don't mind going more LEDs, the reason I choose 24 was a simple calculator I found online for LEDs & aquariums. I know that if I did more LEDs in my build and find it to many I can dial down the drivers as well as switch out LEDs for alternate colors, etc. The only worry I had was another post I found on the forums were people talking about overbuilt DIY LED builds and how people under estimate how much light LEDs put out. I'm still iffy on choosing optics, weather or not I should and if so which ones, lol.

I've seen where people place their LED in "Flower" patterns etc, but not sure how I would lay that out. How do you go about figuring out what kind of pattern to use, etc?

 

[dsdaley77]

Thanks that is good info

 

[Tickle]

I think you'll find that it can vary. Is this guy the go to source for the exact amount you need? NO! But I will say this most major brand LEDs don't vary by much in intensity and output. This being said, I don't fall into the whole Cree is better idea either. I personally use bridglux or rebel, and I love them. Anyway, I'm getting off point......I would use it as a rule of thumb. Example, I now have 70 LEDs on my 40B. I think you can stick with what you have, or if it were me I'd leave room for additional LEDs. Use the 24 as your base colors and add the exotics to that.

Im only running 100 watts of leds on my 40 with no optics lights 8" from the surface and I actually dim them down to about 75%.

This is the formula I used to figure mine L X W / +-16

36x18/16=40.5 40.5*3=121.5watts

thats the common rule of thumb for the 3 watt chips ive seen most people use and i just applied that to my 10 watt chips seeing as my chip can be driven anywhere from 1w to 2.5w.

hope that helps