gap between tank and stand

makes sense...dumb question, how do i use the straight edge to see if it is the tank or stand? I guess either way looks like I have a date with my belt sander come monday...
 
A couple points to realize:
  1. From the tank's perspective, it doesn't matter if the gap is 1/32" or a foot, if it is not being supported by the stand, all the weight on that section of the tank is being supported by the glass bottom and the silicone seals. As stated above, it doesn't matter if the tank is crooked or the stand, the bottom line is the tank isn't being supported.
  2. Now think about stretching those seals that distance until the tank comes in contact with the stand and about how much you would or wouldn't trust them.
  3. This also shows just how much weight a 2x4 on edge can support without bowing (depending on the span, of course.)
 
I am putting a 120g Marineland tank on an AGA Mission stand. Any suggestions or diagrams on how to beef the stand up? The plywood across the top sounds like a good idea. What about underneath if the bottom edges stick out over the supporting wooden rim?

Thanks,
FirstContact
 
makes sense...dumb question, how do i use the straight edge to see if it is the tank or stand? I guess either way looks like I have a date with my belt sander come monday...

What you need is a something known flat the length of the tank (and ideally another the width of the tank). Then take that to the tank while its upside down and see if the tank is flat to the known tool. Repeat on all sides, then repeat on all sides of the stand where the tank would sit.

This tool can be self made, if you can get something cut flat, or almost anything else you can get that is truly flat on one edge.
 
I put the tank in its final resting place today and realized the floor level was off by 5/8" over the length of the stand. Instead of just shimming in a few spots I decided to make two 48" long shims to run the length of the stand and distribute the +1000lbs more evenly across the floor. To do this I placed my 48" straight edge level on top of the aquarium and placed shims under the low end of the straight edge until it was level. I placed a 2x4 on top of the aquarium next to the level and traced a line along the 2x4 using the bottom of the level as a guide. I used a table saw to cut the 2x4 along the line and was left with a 48" long shim that would fill in the gap evenly across the length of my stand. I cut 2 of these shims and put one under the back and one under the front of the stand. I also put a 5/8" trim board under the low side of the stand and now it is stable and perfectly level.
 

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