Gas springs / Gas struts for canopy

[kevin95695]

Hi!

I'm DIY modding a canopy. The lid will be a little heavier than before. I scrounged up some gas struts (aka: gas springs, gas props) off ebay. I'd like to use them to replace the old 'kickstands' that were in the canopy previously.

Anyone have any experience in using these that can give me some pointers on how I should configure them -- Like what orientation, better to mount towards front, rear etc.

Thanks.

 

[familyreefer]

Sorry

Sorry

We were JUST talking about these for that application the other day at the LFS the other day!! How ironic!?! Please keep us posted !

 

[kevin95695]

I'm aware of rust issues, I'll go stainless steel later. Just trying to figure out how to fit best.

 

[Matt Rise]

Well, I have them on the hatchback of my Mustang, lol. If they can hold up the hatch, I'm sure they will hold up a canopy door. They are oriented so that they push out.
Matt

 

[kevin95695]

Actually, when the ebay models arrived, I had to go down to the local truck accessory dude and downgrade to a lower pressure pair... I could barely push it closed.

I'm trying to figure out if I go bottom towards back/top towards front, or bottom at front/top at back. That kind of stuff.

 

[kevin95695]

So...

Like this?

Or like this?

What else do I need to know about using these things?

 

[god910]

It doesn't *really* matter how you mount it. Just remember, it has to have pivots. And it has to have enough room to collapse. In the second pic, it looks like it might not be able to collapse. I know it's not a finished idea, but for ease, the first one is probably the way to go. I'm not sure how you plan on working that out. But hitting up a junkyard and grabbing a set of the mounts off a car would probably be the best (it uses a ball and socket type of swivel for the most part, with a funky special retaining clip to hold the ball to the socket.) But there are lots of different applications.

If you post a pic of the ends of the struts your using that'll help.

 

[hahnmeister]

You can use them either way... you see them used both ways in autos even. The top one gives the strut less leverage.

 

[BeanAnimal]

In most application you want the cylinder facing down. This will help keep debris from resting at the top seal and getting ground in (eventual failire). Though, as stated, the struts will work in either direction.

I suggest sewing a nylon cover for them to protect them from the salt creep.

 

[kevin95695]

Yep. Thanks. As stated earlier, I will go to stainless steel for rust issues later. This is just a proof-of-concept phase. Paid $10 to find out if it'll work... I have the 'ball' mounts.

 

[mcox33]

which ones are they. I looked for them a couple of years ago and could never find a pair short enough to close into the hood.

 

[kevin95695]

Suspa C16-22150. Distance between socket centers is about 16-1/4" open and 10-1/4" closed. I still think they might be a little too stout to allow the lid to stay closed. I just discovered that my local RV sales/repair place has loads of variants (both lenght and strength). Turns out they're commonly used to lift storage doors etc. on RVs. I might go see if he'll let me swap him for a pair w/lower lb. rating. If he does, I'll still be on the cheap. I don't want to pay $18.95ea!

 

[mcox33]

by kevin95695
I don't want to pay $18.95ea!

I know what you mean that is part of why I don't already have them. I don't even need stainless steel as my canopy is high enough that no salt ever reaches it. Been on the tank for over a year now.

 

[god910]

BTW, I'd only use one. Unless you're gonna leave you top open alot, it won't have any detrimental effects. I made my canopy out of poplar. The whole thing (48"x18"x10.5" with a 1" thick lid) only weighs 15-20#.

 

[kevin95695]

I thought about using one, but decided to go with two to prevent warp torque.

 

[god910]

Well, I can tell you from my personal experience, if you put too much torque on the lid, whether you use 2 or not, you'll get it to warp. If all else fails, and these still seem too strong. Start looking for retrofits of Carbon Fiber or fiberglass hoods. They make new struts for when people switch from heavy metal hoods to CF or fiberglass because the stock ones would break a light hood like CF. Those will be the one's I'd look at.

 

[surprise]

Go to Mcmastercarr.com and search for gas springs. They have information on calcs and a good selection of different springs length and force in addition to stainless steel types.

 

[brackishdude]

Here is agreat tutorial on gas springs and applying them to your needs.

http://www.guden.com/gas_springs_index.asp

I tried to retrofit one into my DIY hood, but none available commercially fit my dimensional restrictions.

Here are a few sites with stainless versions:

http://www.guden.com/display-GS1.asp
http://www.ameritoolmfg.com/
http://www.spdhardware.com/catalog/list.asp?id={CE060225-C41E-48CB-B765-670C994D2323}
http://www.indgassprings.com/pages/prod_ss_mgs.html


I wound up going with a stainless stay that I'm very happy with - open the top, let it down a little and it catches. Lift it again a bit, and now it lowers all the way.

http://www.sugatsune.com/products/productss.cfm?CATID=8&SUBCATID=3

I do kinda wish I had the a spring/dampner there, though. That's a freakin heavy door. I should have designed an additional way to get into the tank, like a smaller door on the front, for regular activities in the tank (feeding, etc). Without a dampner/spring, one of these days that thing's gonna slip out of my hand on the way down. . .

 

[kevin95695]

Dude... That's a canopy. I'm gonna put concrete piers under my floor joists on account'a my 75g tank -- But you darn near need a NASA gantry for that friggin' finger choppin' piano.

I'd imagine yer gettup looks purdy sweet closed. How's the showroom view?

 

[Putawaywet]

It also might be worth checking out online marine wharehouses. Boat hatches usually have struts and latches that have relatively low load ratings.

Brett