Getting back

mdiack77

Premium Member
About 6 years ago I had to sell my 180g reef tank due to some life changing circumstances and have been out to the scene since then.

Decided to get back into it - missed the enjoyment of watching an ocean in my living room. Alot has changed since then, but I'm ordering a 220g with a 30g sump. LED lighting didnt exist then, so my LFS is suggesting (3) Blueline 300w LED lights. Any feedback on that? Euroreef is no longer in business, any suggestions for skimmer?

Thanks!
 
Skimmers - Reef Octopus or Deltec

I don't know a lot about LED lighting but Acan Lighting and Ecotech seem to get a lot of kudos.
 
Hey I live in the 5 towns to if you need any help I can push you in the right direction Here is my number so we can text 516-341-8146 my name is Rob Happy reefing :xlbirthday:
 
Your tank will be visible from space with three of those fixtures.
In my opinion your corals color will be washed out in three months with that bulb configuration at that wattage.
A 50/50 split of blue and white would look better to your eye and have less color wash out.
A 60% blue 40% white split would look the best with minimal color wash out.
I use similar Led fxtures with 60 blue/40 white split and less wattage.
My t5s produce much better color overall but cannot replicate the intense actinic color of royal blue leds at dawn and dusk.
Find a fixture that incorporates 3 watt royal blue leds and T5s and you'll have the best of both worlds. Add a couple 10K daylight and 420nm(purple) actinic bulbs to it and it will look fantastic.
 
Definitely better quality and color with the vega. You may need 6 units or more to cover a 220gl depending on your livestock and aquascape. They make two different vegas. In my opinion either model would be a better choice than the light in your link.
 
Tank was delivered a month ago. After securing the floor from the crawlspace and plumbing out the system, my LFS setup the sand and some LR today and the tank is slowly filling with RO water. I decided on a 265g Perfecto tank. Building a custom cabinet that will surround the steel frame. Wish I could attach pics.
 
Tank finally filled up this morning. Guess what we noticed? Off level from left to right by 1/2". Pumping out tomorrow and releveling.
 
Tank has been up and running for about 6 months now. Last Friday, my LFS who does bi-weekly service replaced the 265g DT because 2 weeks prior, one of the service guys scratched up the glass. It was a very long day for them, but by Sunday the water was almost crystal clear.



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The tank is a Marineland 265g glass tank. The stand and canopy was custom made by thhe carpenter my LFS uses. The stand is 1" tube steel.

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I am using a Neptune Apex controller with lab grade ph probes, multiple temp probes and salinity module. I love that I can control and monitor with system with the Apex app for my iPhone.
I have a Tunze wavebox, 1 Vortech MP60 and MP40 with 2 battery backups.

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I am using 3 Radion Gen2 Pro's. These lights are amazing. I also have the Reeflink setup. The iphone app works 50% of the time. Not that impressed:(

I dont have a basement, but I do have a 4' tall crawlspace under that part of the house. Its a perfect location for my fish room!

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Down in the crawlspace, I have 1 125g glass fuge that houses the AquaC EV240 skimmer using a Mag12 (thinking about going to the Mag18 once I drill out the fuge for an external pump)
I have a Korallin C1502 calcium reactor setup with the ph probe top cover and dosing pump for circulation from the DT to the reactor.
Also using a NextReef MR1 reactor for phosphate removal. The media is ROWAphos which I change every 6 weeks.



I have a 20g ATO tank that I mix with kalk. Just invested in the AutoAqua Smart ATO system. Read great reviews about it and cant wait for it to arrive.

For RO storage, I keep a 35 gallon Brute container always filled with premixed Reef Crystals AND a 120g acrylic tank filled too. The 120g was supposed to be the original fuge, but when I came across the 125g at Petco for $95....well, you know the story.
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A true reefer will always have a QT tank setup. Mine is a 29g with a hang on back filter, some LR and a heater.
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Life in the crawlspace wouldnt be complete unless I tried to hatch and grow brine shrimp...
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For some reason, I simply cant get them to stay alive for more than 3 days. Yes, I know its because I need a filter. But what kind of filter to use??

Within the next month, I am taking out the 125g fugue - maybe dumping the FujiMud in the process so I can drill for an external return pump. At that point, I plan on hooking up the 40g breeder tank for coral propagation.

For livestock, I have multiple SPS, LPS and softies. At last count, 24 fish. Multiple tangs/surgeons. Several Anthias, Green chromis, 3 wrasses, 2 clowns, sand sifting goby, long nose hawkfish

Any comments, questions or concerns? Id love to hear the feedback.
 
Very nice tank and stand....how deep is that tank....30"?
I don't know if my back could survive everything in that crawl space but it looks pretty cool. I've also read a lot of positive things about the Radions so I'm looking forward to hearing your experiences with them.
 
I'm jealous lol. Nice set up, looks great.
I had the same skimmer. Works best with a mag 18. The shorter the hose, the better it works.
I used this to hatch brine shrimp.
http://www.marinedepot.com/Tom_Aqua...tcheries-Tom_Aquatics-OE1198-FIFDFEBS-vi.html
I hung it on one end of a 6gl plastic tote that was filled with water from my tank. On the other end of the tote I had a clamp-on shop light with one of those spiral fluorescent bulbs from HD and a heater. The shrimp would hatch and swim out of the hatchery moving towards the light. After all the shrimp hatched(every 24 hours) the shells would stay in the hatchery which makes disposal a breeze. Dump the shells, refill with eggs and start over. In the illuminated end of the tote I used an open ended air hose for water circulation. I first used a sponge filter but it would get fouled up too quick so I abandoned it for the open air hose. No biological filter at all. Feed the hatchlings spirulina powder. They will grow to adults in about 3-4 weeks. During that time the water will turn green and nasty. You will need to dump the water and clean everything once a month. If you can keep several hatcheries going at the same time you won't have any down time between clean outs.
Or
You can skip the grow out tank/s altogether and simply hang the Toms Aquatic Hatcher inconspicuously in your display tank. Refill it with eggs every couple days and your fish will hover in front of it all day and fill up on BBS. It's actually easier this way and healthier for the fish but you have to live with a hatchery hanging in your tank.
 
The tank is 30" - 23" deep. I love the ability to control a wide sprectum with the Radions. The energy savings vs MH is incredible. Besides ReefLink not working 100% of the time, I have a difficult time with the buttons on top. They never seem to listen to what I want them to do!

I'm open to suggestions on settings for the Radions. I've bleached out a fair share of SPS's in the past few months. So I reduced the output to 70% for brightness. All color settings are on 100% Should I change anything else? Color settings, etc?

So, currently, I have a Mag 12 on the skimmer. When I take out the tank to drill, I'm going to go external return pump route and use the existing Mag 18. I have mixed reviews about the skimmer though. Sometimes it just sits here and does not do a thing. Could be after feeding or for no particular reason. Makes no sense, but its very temperamental.

I don't have a problem with hatching the shrimp. My problem is after they hatch and I put them into a 10g tank they die in 3-4 days.
 
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Here are the radions at 70%

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Considering I took these pics with an iPhone, not bad..

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