getting new tangs next week need advice

shawna1972

shawna1972

New member
Hi thanks for looking:

Lots of questions:

what temp should Qt be? and SG?

how to properly acclimate "hippos in geneal"I have acclimation kit/bucket/air stone confused about waste water

how long to fresh water dip with meth?

plan on treatment of cupramine /prazi pro at same time <can this be done?

how many days should fish be eating before I start treatment?

how big of a water change should i be doing on a 30 gallon and how often? 2 small tangs with daily feedings?

My Qt consists of 2 hob filters /seeded 1>#1 Koralia, heater,
and 2 rubbermaid thingys for hiding spots anything else?

can I keep nori on a veggie clip in qt or is this asking for trouble?



My display has been scrubbed,new sand,all new water> 2 weeks ago.
put my live rock that has been in qt for the past 9 months in this week "rock has been fed,water changed ect this whole time" getting a bit of diatoms but that will go away "hopefully soon"?

my plan is to acclimate,fresh water dip>with meth,keep both little tangs in qt for 6 weeks, give them a few days to settle in ,watch them, make sure their eating start treatment with cupramine and prazi do bigger water change,start jungle parasite food and when done put them in display.

If this treatment is less than 6 weeks Do you recommend putting them in sooner?

Thanks for the help I appreciate it!


:)
 
A little confused. Is your tank new and only 30 gallons? Are your water params what they should be? IMO I would not add any tangs to a 30 gallon If it is the 125 gallon in your profile then ok. And if its new it should be cycled before anything is added.
 
The parameters of your quarantine tank should be roughly the same as your display... Don't treat anything unless you observe it during the quarantine period (4-6 weeks). Reading your post it is hard to tell is the 30 set up yet and if so, what are you have for the nitrogen cycle? Have you colonized a sponge filter from a HOB?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14728914#post14728914 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by martin1042
A little confused. Is your tank new and only 30 gallons? Are your water params what they should be? IMO I would not add any tangs to a 30 gallon If it is the 125 gallon in your profile then ok. And if its new it should be cycled before anything is added.
Click to expand...


Tank is not really New per say I've had the tank almost 2 years display tank is 125 6 foot long. 9 months ago had an outbreak of Ich.
What I did was put my live rock "which is not a lot by the way" in a 30 gallon Qt tank and ditched the rest "Sand ,water," scrubbed the whole tank down and got all new sand, started off new water and took my live rock out of qt and added it back to display. As of yet no big cycle my nitrates went up a little but that's about it.

Note: I would never put 2 tangs in a 30 gallon lol but this is where they will be for 6 weeks they will be 2 little tangs 1-1/2 inches
Thanks for the reply
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14729082#post14729082 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Hop
The parameters of your quarantine tank should be roughly the same as your display... Don't treat anything unless you observe it during the quarantine period (4-6 weeks). Reading your post it is hard to tell is the 30 set up yet and if so, what are you have for the nitrogen cycle? Have you colonized a sponge filter from a HOB?
Click to expand...

They are same,I decided getting back into hobby I'm going to treat regardless . My LFS where I'm getting tangs is on a central system if you will "not taking any chances. Been their done that. Yes sponge has bacteria

Thanks
 
Any medications will kill the bacteria that's on that sponge. I wouldn't treat them with cupramine, or any copper meds. Doing so requires daily testing for copper levels. Treating with copper has to be very precise or it either won't work or it'll kill the fish.

If you're going to do more than just observe the fish, while in QT, I'd recommend doing a hyposalinity treatment, instead of copper. It's much easier on the fish and just as effective. While in QT, I'd also recommend de-worming.

Feeding Nori in the QT won't cause any problems at all. I'd recommend feeding them 3-4 times daily and removing anything they don't eat after about 30 minutes. Eventually, once in display, you'll want to feed more often, but that'll be fine for QT. Tangs need to have algae to graze on constantly. Once in display, it's recommended that they have Algae on a clip for at least an hour at a time, several times per day.
 
I would observe them for 4 weeks. If you see an outbreak of ich then hyposalinate.
If you chose to hyposalinate and or observe then you can put a piece of live rock in the qt from the display tank. Even after hyposalination the rock can be re-introduced back into the display tank
---but not if you use copper.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14730510#post14730510 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by returnofsid
Any medications will kill the bacteria that's on that sponge. I wouldn't treat them with cupramine, or any copper meds. Doing so requires daily testing for copper levels. Treating with copper has to be very precise or it either won't work or it'll kill the fish.

If you're going to do more than just observe the fish, while in QT, I'd recommend doing a hyposalinity treatment, instead of copper. It's much easier on the fish and just as effective. While in QT, I'd also recommend de-worming.

Feeding Nori in the QT won't cause any problems at all. I'd recommend feeding them 3-4 times daily and removing anything they don't eat after about 30 minutes. Eventually, once in display, you'll want to feed more often, but that'll be fine for QT. Tangs need to have algae to graze on constantly. Once in display, it's recommended that they have Algae on a clip for at least an hour at a time, several times per day.
Click to expand...

Oh I know it will kill "Some" of the bacteria but I figured I'd cycle it just so they are fine for those few days before treatment.
As far as Hypo "I am not a big fan of this method" I would say it's more safer to do cupramine for "my self" anyway also cupramine is a much safer copper and effective for more than Ich but I did do my research I have all the correct test kits, ammonia alert to detect free ammonia,stability,ect...from talking with seachem.
As far as Feeding> "Thank You" for answering one of my questions in origional post. > I will do just that> thanks.
I plan on de-worming ect while in Qt This was one of my questions.

Please don't take my answers as being rude or not appreciating your advice because I really do ,this is how we all learn but with that said I have questions on my origional thread that I would like an answer on, these are the areas I need help on. Thanks for your reply though it was greatly appreciated!

:)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14730605#post14730605 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by capn_hylinur
I would observe them for 4 weeks. If you see an outbreak of ich then hyposalinate.
If you chose to hyposalinate and or observe then you can put a piece of live rock in the qt from the display tank. Even after hyposalination the rock can be re-introduced back into the display tank
---but not if you use copper.
Click to expand...

Thanks for reply :)
 
Oh not rude at all!! As long as you've done the research and are prepared for what's needed to be done, copper treatment is totally safe and effective. It's the un-informed that end up having problems with it. Glad to hear someone is taking the time to consider QT and how to properly do it. Much better than reading a thread that goes something like this...."....added 2 Tangs to my tank last week, now they have Ich!! What do I do? They looked fine when I brought them home from the LFS!! How do I catch them?..." LOL
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14731339#post14731339 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by shawna1972
Thanks for reply :)
Click to expand...

your welcome

BTW
from your original post--your conditions in the qt --temp, salinity ect should match the display tank
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14731656#post14731656 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by returnofsid
Oh not rude at all!! As long as you've done the research and are prepared for what's needed to be done, copper treatment is totally safe and effective. It's the un-informed that end up having problems with it. Glad to hear someone is taking the time to consider QT and how to properly do it. Much better than reading a thread that goes something like this...."....added 2 Tangs to my tank last week, now they have Ich!! What do I do? They looked fine when I brought them home from the LFS!! How do I catch them?..." LOL
Click to expand...

Thanks, That's what I'm trying to prevent :) Im still lost as to how to properly acclimate. and the use of meth blue with dip?


Thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14731772#post14731772 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by capn_hylinur
your welcome

BTW
from your original post--your conditions in the qt --temp, salinity ect should match the display tank
Click to expand...

Thanks :) My temp on display is 78... but Qt is at 80 I didn't know with the use of copper if this would stress them more I was thinking about lowering it a little more.
 
From what I've read, copper depletes oxygen in the water. Higher temps also deplete oxygen in the water. Now, I might be totally forgetting what I've read about the copper, it just jumped out at me as I read your last post, as something I've read in the past. What, specifically, are you using the Meth. Blue for?
 
i always start a qt at 1.017 and allow this to evaporate to the desired level for you display tank.
Use prasi and copper for a week and this should remove most of the parasites in and out. Allowing the Sg to rise naturally is ok for the fish as the adapt well from low to higher salinity and a lower salinity helps to kill some of the parasites. If you use the prasi in the food it will help clean the intestines too.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14733953#post14733953 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by returnofsid
From what I've read, copper depletes oxygen in the water. Higher temps also deplete oxygen in the water. Now, I might be totally forgetting what I've read about the copper, it just jumped out at me as I read your last post, as something I've read in the past. What, specifically, are you using the Meth. Blue for?
Click to expand...

Yeah I head sg plays a part also I'll have to look into that more and temp also the methane blue>I heard it calms them while in fresh water dip Think it does more also I have never used it this is why I wanted to know how to use it and what are the benefits.

Thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14734326#post14734326 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by thecoralreefer
i always start a qt at 1.017 and allow this to evaporate to the desired level for you display tank.
Use prasi and copper for a week and this should remove most of the parasites in and out. Allowing the Sg to rise naturally is ok for the fish as the adapt well from low to higher salinity and a lower salinity helps to kill some of the parasites. If you use the prasi in the food it will help clean the intestines too.
Click to expand...

Only 1 week ?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14735287#post14735287 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by shawna1972
Yeah I head sg plays a part also I'll have to look into that more and temp also the methane blue>I heard it calms them while in fresh water dip Think it does more also I have never used it this is why I wanted to know how to use it and what are the benefits.

Thanks
Click to expand...

2 degrees difference will not have a large enough affect on the concentration of oxygen in the water to affect the fish
(I am assuming one small fish in a 15 gal qt)
 
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