gfci

Depends on the load you are putting in to it. The 20 amp would be better, but it will cost quite a bit more than a 15 amp.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14560337#post14560337 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lifes A Beach
Just for clarification...if the circuit breaker is listed as 20 amp, should the gfci receptacle also be 20 amp?

A GFCI trips when there is an imbalance in current flow between the hot and the neutral, which means current is flowing through an addtional path to ground-- namely you. The NEC allows a 15 amp recepticle on a 20 amp circuit, and unless it is specifically prohibited in another section of the code, it is permissible for a GFCI as well. (My book is on a job site, and don't feel like searching it out on the internet. (only the insane memorize the booko :D ) However, the NEC is not always the final word. Many if not most jurisdictions are subject to state and local codes as well-- which are generally more strict. A good practice is: if it is a 20 amp circuit, use 20 amp devices. if it is a 15 amp circuit, use 15 amp devices. that way you never get caught with your pants down.

HTH,

Jim
 
something else i didn't know until today is that both outlets on one gfci will trip together.....i thought they were independant

glad i asked cause i was just gonna put one in my stand & plug the return pump in one side & the rest of the stuff in the other LOL

.....now my stand will have 2 :D
 
If you have a 20 amp circuit with only one outlet on it GFCI or regular then it must be rated for 20 amps. Otherwise you can use a 15
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14563101#post14563101 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by aquaman49504
If you have a 20 amp circuit with only one outlet on it GFCI or regular then it must be rated for 20 amps. Otherwise you can use a 15

That is what I was talking about, with the "good practice" statement. However, if you are going to site a code in the book, please refer to a specific code as BeanAnimal did. The NEC is a very complicated book, and often not organized as one would think it should be. That is why most Electrician exams are really an exercise in how fast you can get through the NEC and find the information you need. But this is California, and CA seldom adopts the NEC as the final word. CA has its own thing going on, and is more strict. (Earthquake country for one) Don't get me wrong, I am not disagreeing with you, I just don't want to look it up.

Then you add to that: Fire Codes, Building Codes also have electrical codes.

Regards,

Jim
 
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I'll share my left-field opinion on this one:bum: When I buy a GFI, I get the highest quality, highest rated one I can get. This is usually a Leviton 20A GFI. I don't really trust GFI's all that much anyway. They don't last forever, whether they are installed incorrectly or are exposed to conditions that would cause them to trip frequently.

So maybe code says you shouldn't put a 20A device on a 15A circuit, I know I don't plan on calling out any inspectors for my aquarium wiring. It's certainly not going to hurt anything as you still have 15A overcurrent protection at the breaker. When you have consistent high demand loads on a GFI in a corrosive environment, I'd rather have the GFI that's got just a little better internals in it. Of course, I ran 20A circuits anyway so that doesn't matter.
 
The only reason the code is written the way it is, is so someone does not plug a 20A load into a 15A circuit. (the plugs are different) For your personal property, it does not matter how you do it, as long as you know the circuit limitations. (And the people who come after you, if it is in the wall, and is left behind as is)

Just FYI: A GFI, is not the same as a GFCI, a GFI goes in the service panel. A GFCI is an outlet.

Regards,

Jim
 
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