GHL Mitras Club
- Thread starter rodneyri
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lancesmith1
Member
touch keys
touch keys
i think this may be the problem. i have checked all of the manuals. are there instructions on how to do this available?
touch keys
i think this may be the problem. i have checked all of the manuals. are there instructions on how to do this available?
Wow.. Didn't you try using one of the projects from the GHL website? It's so darn easy to set these up even without a project! With a project it just takes a minute or two. The whole process even without a project takes me less than 10 minutes from start to finish including setting up the network stuff.
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bobafet1
Active member
Yeah, I did try the projects from the GHL website and wasn't impressed. I asked a few users for their programs to see what I might be missing or what I should be doing different. Nobody bothered doing so and I can't really chase people down for free advice.
But here are my main reasons:
1. whenever I connect to the 7206 I have to manually input the IP address and click on this being a network connection. I shouldn't have to do this every time.
2. GCC crashes on me several times while I try to mess with lighting program adjustments.
3. Yeah, this might take 10 minutes for someone use to using windows but I'm mostly a MAC user. But for this light I'm using the latest Windows OS, with all the updates, on the latest windows laptop. It's just too archaic looking for me and would be nice being able to
I'm sure this system is great for someone who is already well versed in GHL programing and the windows operation system. I prefer an interface that's a bit more plug and play, not adjust...adjust...adjust....adjust.....
mako61
New member
But here are my main reasons:
1. whenever I connect to the 7206 I have to manually input the IP address and click on this being a network connection. I shouldn't have to do this every time.
Once you setup your connection you need to properly exit the app. It saves on exit. If you leave it running and it crashes / improperly exits it wont save your settings. This is true on many apps.
1. whenever I connect to the 7206 I have to manually input the IP address and click on this being a network connection. I shouldn't have to do this every time.
Once you setup your connection you need to properly exit the app. It saves on exit. If you leave it running and it crashes / improperly exits it wont save your settings. This is true on many apps.
SkyReptiles
New member
Do any of you guys have any light projects you have had success with that you can share? I have also tried a few of them from the site and haven't found one that will work with my tank. Reefer 250 mixed reef.
I just mounted my lx7s. I made the mount myself out of 8020 series 10. By just luck the wire fits snuggly into the slot. Im pretty happy with how it came out.
I have them 13 inches over my tank. Im not sure if that is good for a 60x22x22 tank. I think it may be a little high. I can move them down, but i kinda like having the space. Still playing with the color I have it set pretty blue.
Trying to figure out mounting options for a reefer 425xl (47" length). I am planning to peel off the black vinyl on the back to the left and right of the overflow box so want to keep mounting hardware hidden toward center. I saw that each mitras weighs 5 lbs. What do you think of my idea of the T bar setup? Would be able to support 2 fixtures on either side?
https://imgur.com/a/cvBJn
monkeyboy321
New member
6100hv settings
6100hv settings
Hi. I am about to swap my lights out for Hydras, Radion or Kessils if someone can't help me to get a setting. Need something more user friendly.
I have 3 x 6200hv over a 1500 EA reef
Lights are front to back orientation. 38cm above water.
Mixed reef with softies at bottom, LPS bottom to mid, SPS mid to top
I run Triton method and my ICP tests are always good so I'm putting it down to lights why I've had acros strip, slow growth.
Can someone post a proven project with their height above water, HO or HE output and the overall intensity.
Size and depth of tank etc.
Thanks. Chris
6100hv settings
Hi. I am about to swap my lights out for Hydras, Radion or Kessils if someone can't help me to get a setting. Need something more user friendly.
I have 3 x 6200hv over a 1500 EA reef
Lights are front to back orientation. 38cm above water.
Mixed reef with softies at bottom, LPS bottom to mid, SPS mid to top
I run Triton method and my ICP tests are always good so I'm putting it down to lights why I've had acros strip, slow growth.
Can someone post a proven project with their height above water, HO or HE output and the overall intensity.
Size and depth of tank etc.
Thanks. Chris
nycman
New member
can i politely ask why you want to supplement this fixture with T5s. This fixture has ample blues. I run mine at 21000+K only blues and violets and the coral colors pop like the best of T5s I have ever run. And they run cool and can be dimmed. And look cooler suspended over the tank. What am I missing about T5s. The shadowing has been mitigated, esp. with the 7206s.
mako61
New member
I think you will be fine my T-Slot does not flex much at all. The one thing I did wrong. where I attach the rails to stand I only have the brackets 4 inches apart vertically and attached to a singe block of wood for spacing from stand/tank. I get a little flex/twist there. I wish I had them much further apart and 2 separate wood spacer blocks.
VJV
New member
@Slief Scott, please please convince GHL to build a multi Mitras LX Raul mounting system! This mays seem like a silly argument but it is a deal breaker for me and for a lot of other people out there.
My tank is a rimless 80 inch peninsula room divider and sits between main living room and dining room. Every thing about it needs to look sharp so as much as I would like to have 4 Mitras over it I cannot have ugly DYI aluminum rails hanguing there.
So a system like what Ecotech offers for radions a or AI that allows for elegant hanguing of the fixtures and cord management is WAY overdue and likely putting off a lot of reefers from jumping in.
They already have the best lights so a rail system should be pretty easy [emoji4]
My tank is a rimless 80 inch peninsula room divider and sits between main living room and dining room. Every thing about it needs to look sharp so as much as I would like to have 4 Mitras over it I cannot have ugly DYI aluminum rails hanguing there.
So a system like what Ecotech offers for radions a or AI that allows for elegant hanguing of the fixtures and cord management is WAY overdue and likely putting off a lot of reefers from jumping in.
They already have the best lights so a rail system should be pretty easy [emoji4]
The solution is VERY easy. All you need is to of the GHL flex mounts and a piece of aluminum extrusion T slot to span between the two flex mounts. Then you can mount the lights to the extrusion using either the existing mount holes on the mitras with some long screws that go through the extrusion or get some of these articulating mounts so you can angle the lights in any direction and rotate them 360*. Then use carriage bolts to mount them to the T slot in the extrusion. That or just get a few extrusions and build your own setup using a pair of extusions for the vertical support, a couple shorter ones for the horizantal support off the verticals and another longer one to span the length of the display. It would be 5 extrusions in total and https://www.8020.net has all kinds of extrusions in different colors with all the attachments needed to build your own really slick light support.
This is an example of what i am talking about. There are 3 Mitras attached to an aluminum extrusion. In this case, the extrusion is hung but you can get a T Slot extrusion that would attach diectly to the GHL Flex Mount and have the extrusion cut to match the length of your tank. Since every tank size is different, it would create a lot of part numbers to have different lengths on the GHL website and it would likely be more expensive than just getting an extrusion off of Amazon, 8020 or Grainger to span between a pair of flex mounts.
This is a light rack I built for a customer a while back that used their existing lights. This tank was 48" tall so the Kessils N's were needed to penetrate the depth. We retained their original Hydras for accent lighting. Not my first choice but the customer already had them and there was no getting him to spend the extra on the mitras. I am sharing this photo because it shows how I used those articulating mounts to attach to the T slot extrusions using carriage bolts to mount the articulating base to the extrusion. This allowed every light to be shifted anywhere along the extrusion, rotated 360* while also allowing us to angle every light for maximum coverage and shadow elimination. If I were in your shoes, I would use a pair of flex mounts with an extrusion hung between them and then use these mounts to attach the Mitras to the T slot extrusion.
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VJV
New member
The solution is VERY easy. All you need is to of the GHL flex mounts and a piece of aluminum extrusion T slot to span between the two flex mounts. Then you can mount the lights to the extrusion using either the existing mount holes on the mitras with some long screws that go through the extrusion or get some of these articulating mounts so you can angle the lights in any direction and rotate them 360*. Then use carriage bolts to mount them to the T slot in the extrusion. That or just get a few extrusions and build your own setup using a pair of extusions for the vertical support, a couple shorter ones for the horizantal support off the verticals and another longer one to span the length of the display. It would be 5 extrusions in total and https://www.8020.net has all kinds of extrusions in different colors with all the attachments needed to build your own really slick light support.
This is an example of what i am talking about. There are 3 Mitras attached to an aluminum extrusion. In this case, the extrusion is hung but you can get a T Slot extrusion that would attach diectly to the GHL Flex Mount and have the extrusion cut to match the length of your tank. Since every tank size is different, it would create a lot of part numbers to have different lengths on the GHL website and it would likely be more expensive than just getting an extrusion off of Amazon, 8020 or Grainger to span between a pair of flex mounts.
This is a light rack I built for a customer a while back that used their existing lights. This tank was 48" tall so the Kessils N's were needed to penetrate the depth. We retained their original Hydras for accent lighting. Not my first choice but the customer already had them and there was no getting him to spend the extra on the mitras. I am sharing this photo because it shows how I used those articulating mounts to attach to the T slot extrusions using carriage bolts to mount the articulating base to the extrusion. This allowed every light to be shifted anywhere along the extrusion, rotated 360* while also allowing us to angle every light for maximum coverage and shadow elimination. If I were in your shoes, I would use a pair of flex mounts with an extrusion hung between them and then use these mounts to attach the Mitras to the T slot extrusion.
Thank you very much for such a detailed reply! However, and please do. It take it the wrong way, this is precisely what I do not want. This is a perfect solution if you have a canopy that allows hiding all the aluminum bars and cross bars, as well as all the wires.
However, for a rimless room divider it is not an elegant solution to have hanging of the ceiling in the main living room.
This is where a solution like the Ecotech RMS system makes a ton of sense. And with the current popularity of rimless systems I am sure the market for these would be very big, and GHL would sell more fixtures than it does today.
Sure it is more expensive but so I really care when I am buying 3, 4 or more units that will cost me 3.000$+?
Would love to build what you have suggested but unfortunately I may need to look elsewhere. And I am sure I am not alone.
Again, thank you very much for the detailed suggestions.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
As I said in my post, you would use two of the GHL flex mounts and use a single T Slot extrusion hung between the GHL flex mounts. The point of my pictures was to show you ways to nicely and easily mount the fixtures to the extrusion. It wasn't to suggest that you make a light rack or hang anything from the ceiling. The extrusion and flex mount give you a nice way to hide the wires too.
That said, you could easily use the RMS if you wanted to and adapt those the GHL fixtures using the same articulating mounts I used on the above racks or via a DIY.
Scott - Now that you've been running these for a few weeks, how many would you recommend for a 300 deep dimension to achieve maximum coverage with minimal shadowing? 72x36x27 Would 6 be overkill/detrimental?
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