Good idea for those with REEF + FOWLR tanks?

I've been doing this for a while with no negative results. I have 3 nanos set up right now. I dump 3 gallons from my FOWLR down the drain, then fill it with 3 gallons from my soft coral tank. I then fill the soft coral tank with 3 gallons from my SPS/clam tank. I then use "new" saltwater to fill my SPS tank. I haven't noticed any negative results from this method. The effluent from my SPS tank is still good water, perhaps only being deficient in minerals taken up by the hard corals, which doesn't matter for the soft coral tank, and my fish don't care either way.
 
so if you took a decent size tank and filled it with nothing but live rock and cheato, how long would it take fot it to clean fairly clean water (like from an SPS tank) or could it never get it clean enough? Probably far fetched, but wouldn't it be great to complete that daisey chain by having the last tank clean the water and then you start your water change with water from it and then down the lie you go?
 
I've been doing this for a while with no negative results. I have 3 nanos set up right now. I dump 3 gallons from my FOWLR down the drain, then fill it with 3 gallons from my soft coral tank. I then fill the soft coral tank with 3 gallons from my SPS/clam tank. I then use "new" saltwater to fill my SPS tank. I haven't noticed any negative results from this method. The effluent from my SPS tank is still good water, perhaps only being deficient in minerals taken up by the hard corals, which doesn't matter for the soft coral tank, and my fish don't care either way.

very interesting.I am going to do some research :)
Thanks everyone!
 
so if you took a decent size tank and filled it with nothing but live rock and cheato, how long would it take fot it to clean fairly clean water (like from an SPS tank) or could it never get it clean enough?

I don't think the issue is the cleanliness of the water. Almost every tank I have (except my FOWLR) has undetectable phosphates and very low nitrates. The purpose of water changes, at least for me, is to preserve the proper trace element balance, otherwise I would never do water changes.

However, I have also experimented in cleaning of dirty (FOWLR) water by putting it in a 20 gallon tank full of chaeto and live rock with lots of carbon, and the water decreased to zero nitrates within 3 days, while phosphates remained. Turned out my nitrates were too low to balance out the phosphates for uptake by the chaeto, so I added some KNO3 (stump remover) for nitrate supplementation and then all phosphates were undetectable within another 2 days. I also added chelated iron for the chaeto health. The carbon made the water crystal clear, and the chaeto filtered out phosphates and nitrates. I then added some trace elements and used the water to grow out frags. So yes, it is possible to clean up water using chaeto/live rock. I did it just a few times because I was low on salt. For me, it isn't worth the time and room to do it on a permanent basis, but for others it could be worth it.
 
Interesting Jason. Okay, so how did you know you needed more nitrate for the phosphate to uptake by the chaeto....and of course everyone knows that you can just toss in a little stump remover to get it all going again, just need to find my stumpometer juice guage for the right amount to add....:hmm4:

I guess if you were making a case for saving the water to be "green" (healthy environment) then I guess the offset is the electricity to light, heat and pumps may all cancel it all out? Why am I thinking you have already measured the current/voltage/wattage (or whatever, hey I am a business major) for the equipment and have an answer for that too? Otherwise, I would throw a 55g in my washer/dryer room and clean away.....
 
For plants and macroalgae, the essential macronutrients include nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Since I had undetectable amounts of nitrogen (no ammonia or nitrate) and yet phosphorus remained in the form of phosphates, I realized I had an imbalance, and the limiting nutrient was nitrogen, which was too low to allow the chaeto to utilize the phosphates. If I wanted to spend the time, I'm sure I could have found published ratios for nutrient uptake by macroalgae, and then do a mass balance on N and P, but I didn't. Instead, I just added a solution of KNO3 until I saw about 5ppm nitrates, and then just waited. Nitrates, in my opinion, are easy to get rid of, as they are removed by either macroalgae or by bacterial denitrification, so I'd rather add a little too much and then let it come down over time, making sure that all of the phosphates are removed.

I didn't do a cost/benefit analysis on the system, but it would be simple to do so. I used a 26W CFL bulb for 10 hours a day, a 50 watt heater (assume 12 hours on), and a 3.5W powerhead (24 hour). This equates to ~0.95kWh per day, and it took 5 days, for a total of 4.75kWh. At ~10 cents per kWh, it cost me $0.475 worth of electricity. I also used about 50 cents worth of carbon, 10 cents worth of stump remover and 15 cents worth of trace elements (5mL). (I also used ~$1 worth of water tests, but that is a one time cost). So for 20 gallons of filtered salt water I spent a grand total of: $1.23.

Assuming ~30 cents per gallon of mixed Reef Crystals, 20 gallons costs $6.00. So I saved a total of $4.73 by filtering used reef water. The only concern I have with doing this is getting the trace elements and ionic balance correct. You may have to test for potassium (which was added with the stump remover) as well as other important elements. I wouldn't use this water for a SPS reef without performing several tests, but I would be fine with it for a frag tank or soft coral reef.
 
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