Got Ich - read the sticky, have questions

Hypo and TTM are two different treatments.

TTM is more effective but having to treat as many fish as you have it's going to be a huge pain. Since you don't have any corals I would just pull the display down to 1.009 over a 48hour period. No more no less. Keep it there until you see the last sign of the parasite and after that continue for a full 4 weeks.

After 4 weeks, slowly bring the salinity back up to normal over 48hours or longer using salt in the top off water. 48hours minimum.

Then done. Unless the cysts have dove under the sand bed and survived, you should be free and clear.

If the diseases persists you will have to likely do TTM on each individual fish.

I run Bare bottom. also would be it ok to just pull out my live rock and keep that live in a brute for a for full fallow period of 72 days then put it back in the tank?
 
you know what, F it. I'm done debating this. This issue has consumed my entire life for the past week. Today alone I debated every possible angle of this 100 times with advice and guidance from countless people on different forums and there is still no clear cut winner. At this point I dont want to spend anymore more money on another tank and I dont want my life to be making massive water changes every three days moving live stock from tank. Not only that but Ill be out of town the week of June 1 and June 13. I need this to be cut and dry for the wifey. Tonight after work im going to lower salinity half way there, tomorrow after work I'll lower it the rest of the way. Im leaving the fish and live rock in there, pulling the inverts. May god have mercy on my fishes souls.

one more question. Does it make sense to run skimmer, carbon, and gfo during this time or should I just take it all offline.
 
Skimmers don't skim at low salinity. It's a bubble size physics thing. I would keep it running for aeration though.

Keep the carbon and gfo too
 
hypo has begun. Removed about 40 hermits and my cheato and tossed them in a ten gallon. lowered salinity about 25% tonight. Have a plan to get it fully lowered to 1.009 on friday night at 7pm right at the 48 hour mark.

Fish still eating well. no scratching.

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Good luck, I think this is probably the best route to go.

I would keep the skimmer. As you raise the salinity when this is all over, the dissolved o2 % will start to plummet. You really need to hyper oxygenate the water as much as possible before you go to raise the salinity again. The skimmer will help, but you may want to get a big air pump and a few monster air stones.
 
Good luck, I think this is probably the best route to go.

I would keep the skimmer. As you raise the salinity when this is all over, the dissolved o2 % will start to plummet. You really need to hyper oxygenate the water as much as possible before you go to raise the salinity again. The skimmer will help, but you may want to get a big air pump and a few monster air stones.

The good news there is there i got two xf150s that crank the flow and i got two bubblers plus I work for a medical equipement company and i have unlimited access to oxygen tanks
 
Why didn't anyone throw out using a UV sterilizer? I am currently battling an ich fight on a a powder blue tang, currently in qt under hyposalinaty ... As far as the tank, I'm with the do nothing crowd, no other fish has signs and even if ich is in the system it will run its course, and go away. I am researching adding a UV sterilizer to make sure it doesn't live through the drop off stage, I mean with the amount we spend on fish and equipment what's another 300 bucks?

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Why didn't anyone throw out using a UV sterilizer? I am currently battling an ich fight on a a powder blue tang, currently in qt under hyposalinaty ... As far as the tank, I'm with the do nothing crowd, no other fish has signs and even if ich is in the system it will run its course, and go away. I am researching adding a UV sterilizer to make sure it doesn't live through the drop off stage, I mean with the amount we spend on fish and equipment what's another 300 bucks?

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UV sterilizer is not an effective treatment. From the looks of the fish in his pics they would have no shot to survive without something being done to kill the Ich.
 
Why didn't anyone throw out using a UV sterilizer? I am currently battling an ich fight on a a powder blue tang, currently in qt under hyposalinaty ... As far as the tank, I'm with the do nothing crowd, no other fish has signs and even if ich is in the system it will run its course, and go away. I am researching adding a UV sterilizer to make sure it doesn't live through the drop off stage, I mean with the amount we spend on fish and equipment what's another 300 bucks?

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1. UVS is ineffective at destroying eukaryotic protozoa. The pellicle (thick membrane wall) of Protozoa requires significant contact in order to break through it. The pellicle of pathogenic protozoan are also markedly thicker than others as well, which makes crypto cells even harder to kill with it.

2: the cysts from crypto all hide in the substrate and few actually enter the water column, which greatly decreases the number exposed.

3: UV can help prevent the proliferation of the disease by assisting in the control of the total colony count during the free swimming stage, but will never be able to totally irradicate it based upon the points above.
 
1. UVS is ineffective at destroying eukaryotic protozoa. The pellicle (thick membrane wall) of Protozoa requires significant contact in order to break through it. The pellicle of pathogenic protozoan are also markedly thicker than others as well, which makes crypto cells even harder to kill with it.

2: the cysts from crypto all hide in the substrate and few actually enter the water column, which greatly decreases the number exposed.

3: UV can help prevent the proliferation of the disease by assisting in the control of the total colony count during the free swimming stage, but will never be able to totally irradicate it based upon the points above.
Point three was my main point, if you stop the spreading it's not so bad.

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My pbt looks had white spots the day before yesterday and today he has what looks like bumps under his skin, what stage is that ?

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1. UVS is ineffective at destroying eukaryotic protozoa. The pellicle (thick membrane wall) of Protozoa requires significant contact in order to break through it. The pellicle of pathogenic protozoan are also markedly thicker than others as well, which makes crypto cells even harder to kill with it.

2: the cysts from crypto all hide in the substrate and few actually enter the water column, which greatly decreases the number exposed.

3: UV can help prevent the proliferation of the disease by assisting in the control of the total colony count during the free swimming stage, but will never be able to totally irradicate it based upon the points above.

+1 You can buy oversized UVs with long dwell times and higher watts per gallon to achieve level 1 and level 2 sterilization which will help with disease but will never cure it from the system, just combat it. If Ich disappears in a tank with a UV present, its from fish becoming immune not because of the UV
 
+1 You can buy oversized UVs with long dwell times and higher watts per gallon to achieve level 1 and level 2 sterilization which will help with disease but will never cure it from the system, just combat it. If Ich disappears in a tank with a UV present, its from fish becoming immune not because of the UV

Yes, and those are a bit more than 300 bucks.
 
BTW, the purple and the Powder Brown I will probably just put them out of their misery tonight. They looked so bad this morning I couldnt believe they are still alive.
 
BTW, the purple and the Powder Brown I will probably just put them out of their misery tonight. They looked so bad this morning I couldnt believe they are still alive.

If they are moving around and eating why the heck would you just kill them? In that regard, why bother trying to treat them ich at all?
 
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