Got this blue gigantea trying to nurse it back to health

isseym328

Premium Member
Ok so I don't think it's about to die but I know for sure that it's not 100 percent healthy. I bought it over the weekend and the good things that I noticed about it is that 1) it was semi sticky to the touch, 2) foot is not hurt and is attached to rubble, 3) responds to food although it's not eating right now, and 4) mouth is shut tight. What I thought was a little iffy is the lack of tentacles around the mouth and how the tentacles look half bleached.

I might get flamed for this but the anemone is sitting in a 20g right now by itself. I'm planning on adding my cap clown to the tank and that will be it. My question is what else is there I can do to keep the anemone as healthy as possible? I am not planning to add the clown until the carpet looks 100 percent healthy. So far feeding it has been unsuccessful. Is there any type of food i can try that would get its attention? I've had it since Sunday.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

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The rubble that I was referring to was back at the lfs. Now I believe it has attached to the bottom of the tank through the sand.

Before the anemone went into the tank I did a 30 percent water change and have changed another gallon since then. The water quality should be pretty clean since there is nothing else in the tank cept for couple small softies.

Should I try to feed it again?
 
Iam no expert, but I will toss my $0.32 into the pot:

1. I would add appropriate size clowns ASAP. Their relationship is mutually symbiotic, and the anemone needs all the help that it can get.
2. Be sure that there is enough flow in the tank. Right now in my 60 cube I have ~5000gph.
3. Feed small foods, like enriched Mysis or chopped seafood.
4. You might need to add some rock if the anemone didn't attach to the bottom of the aquaria. IME, gigantea like solid substrates.
5. You need strong lights ... nothing is better than MH IME.
6. Worry about water consistency, and not water quality. While I believe that pH, salinity, ammonia and nitrites are critical, other water parameters such as nitrates, phosphates, and Ca2+ are less critical. Don't try to drastically change those, as you may inadvertantly stress your anemone to death. Small water changes and gradual parameter changes are key.
7. I would run carbon to avoid possible chemical warfare with the softies .... in its weakened state, alleopathy may send it over the edge..
 
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1. In the past I find that some clowns snuggle the anemone to death and I didn't want that to happen again.
2. There is enough flow in the tank. I can see the tentacles of the anemone moving around quite a bit.
3. I will try this. I have been trying to feed large pieces of shrimp.
4. There are some rocks on the side that he can attach to if needed.
5. Hmmm...not sure if i can do anything about this unless i move it to my new tank.
6. This is actually something that my friend brought up. I think consistency is very important.
7. I will do this as well....and move the two other softies to another tank.

Great ideas EJ. Thanks for your input!
 
I just saw that you are in Pasadena... haha. Me too!

Are you still looking for a cube? I am selling my 60 cube.
 
Should've told me a month earlier. I got one custom built and going to pick it up this Sat. That's a nice carpet in your avatar with the skunks!
 
I discovered that making sure my magnesium levels were OK helped all my anemones, but especially my gigantea.

If it is not eating I have found that gently injecting mysis directly into the mouth with a needless syringe can be very helpful for a stressed gigantea.

If you don't have bright light (SPS levels) and water movement (not just gently moving the tentacles, but moving the oral disk as well) you are not likely to have much long term success.
 
I never knew about the relationship between magnesium and anemones...I will take a look at that.

What happened with the feeding is that I tried to put half a piece of raw shrimp into it's mouth directly and it spit it out. Doesn't sound like it wants to eat at all but I will try something more tempting like mysis.

I always thought some carpets are ok with lower lighting...but I guess that is not true with gigantea. This is actually the first time I'm putting a carpet underneath lights other than MH.
 
Haddoni carpets are OK with lower light levels, gigantea are not. I tried to keep a gigantea under haddoni conditions by feeding it a lot. I started off ok but then gradually started shrinking. Once I moved it under MHs it returned to good health and began growing again. Giganteas don't have a great track record in the first place. As far as I know, anyone that has had some success keeps them under MH lights, usually 250-400 watts. I have one now that is doing well under DE 150 watt MH, but it is any about 10" away from the lamp in about 6" of water.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12493999#post12493999 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by E.J. Coral
Iam no expert, but I will toss my $0.32 into the pot:

1. I would add appropriate size clowns ASAP. Their relationship is mutually symbiotic, and the anemone needs all the help that it can get.
2. Be sure that there is enough flow in the tank. Right now in my 60 cube I have ~5000gph.
3. Feed small foods, like enriched Mysis or chopped seafood.
4. You might need to add some rock if the anemone didn't attach to the bottom of the aquaria. IME, gigantea like solid substrates.
5. You need strong lights ... nothing is better than MH IME.
6. Worry about water consistency, and not water quality. While I believe that pH, salinity, ammonia and nitrites are critical, other water parameters such as nitrates, phosphates, and Ca2+ are less critical. Don't try to drastically change those, as you may inadvertantly stress your anemone to death. Small water changes and gradual parameter changes are key.
7. I would run carbon to avoid possible chemical warfare with the softies .... in its weakened state, alleopathy may send it over the edge..


It's unfortunate that you place this in a 20gal tank. Its going to be a lot harder to keep parameters stable in a tank this size and will ultimately need a bigger tank. Its also not going to be easy to move this anemone now if/when its healthy and if its not it will cause it a lot of stress.


1. I would wait on the clowns. Their symbiotic relationship only serves to protect the anemone from predators and help to feed it.
2. These guys like lots of flow to wash away waste and circulate nutrient rich water to nourish it. This again will be hard to replicate in a 20 (not the flow but the function)
3. As for feeding, no need to stick the food in its mouth, as that might be stressful. Just gently wiggle a piece of food around its tentacles until it stings and attaches to the food. It will then feed itself. 2-3 times a week should be fine; but you will need to monitor phosphates and nitrates doing this.
4. Will likely attach to the glass bottom and will be difficult to get off. Rock rubble below the sand and covering the glass will make it easier to remove from this tank.
5. I agree, Quality lighting is going to be key for this guy most likely. I would suggest a 70w or 150w metal halide on a tank this shallow. If you change/increase the lighting, be careful to slowly acclimate it over 2 or 3 weeks.
6. I agree that consistency is most important, but quality is very important here too. Stable alkalinity around 8.5 dKh.

Good luck. It's a very beautiful anemone!
 
Unfortunately the gigantea died. It got caught in a powerhead that was hanging a bit too lo, and I didn't not see it until the next day and the damage was done. It was alive for a few more days after that but since it was already not too healthy...=( I was going to transfer it to my new 60gallon too. If anyone in the la area know of a place that has a healthy haddoni/gigantea please let me know. Thanks!
 
If one pops up in the area I will buy it and invite you over to look at it :D.... lol. I am also looking for another gigantea or two to see if I can get my current anemone some luvin:p

BTW, COVER THEM POWERHEADS!!!!!!!!
 
It's by color and quantity. I think the prices of haddoni's and gigantea has gone down from a yr or two ago just because they have been on the market for so long. I remember buying a orange/red haddoni for only 90 dollars 3-4 yrs ago when they were not very popular. I think also the fact that they are hard to keep for some hobbyists some people are starting to realize that spending 3-400 dollars on a anemone and having it die on them is just a waste of money and sad. The blue gigantea I tried to nurse back to health was only 160...and it was a good 10-12 inches.
 
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