Green algae and black hair algae.
- Thread starter PitViper
- Start date
Try removing as much as possible by hand and add a clean up crew. I'm not sure how big your tank is, but Mexican Turbo snails or urchins are good for GHA. Both can be bulldozers though and urchins will eat coralline algae too (and plastic and silicone). If you have a large tank, you can look into a tang or rabbitfish.
What your tank is going through is normal. Just keep up with water changes, reduce your photo period and add some snails.
What your tank is going through is normal. Just keep up with water changes, reduce your photo period and add some snails.
AlSimmons
New member
10 gallon because that's all I had. With a Fluval 206 canister filter. Nitrates are 0. Ammonia is 0. Phosphates have no clue. Live rock all four pieces. Two are plain white live rock and two already covered in coralline algae.
Trigger Tough
New member
Phosphates are hard to read sometimes because the algae is eating them up
I’d get rid of any mechanical filtration in your filter and replace it with phosphate removing substrate. Your tank is still young and going though cycles though. Give it 6 months or so and it should clear up
A lawnmower Blenny would help too
I’d get rid of any mechanical filtration in your filter and replace it with phosphate removing substrate. Your tank is still young and going though cycles though. Give it 6 months or so and it should clear up
A lawnmower Blenny would help too
A lawnmower Blenny is too big for 10G IMO. Maybe look at a tail-spot blenny if you want an algae eating fish.
Could I just maybe put the phosphate remover directly into the tank? I opened up the filter once already and it was a pain in the *** to say the least. BUT if I can't then that's ok. What is a good phosphate remover? I've heard a lot about the sea-chem stuff. And I agree also about a lawnmower blenny.
It depends on the remover. There's a product called PhostphateRX or something like that that's a liquid that removes phosphate and another called NOpOx from Redsea that's a liquid nitrate and phosphate remover. If you're talking about GFO or some other media, then I would not put it in my tank.
Yeah, I hated a canister filter when I briefly used one. You'd probably be better off with a hang on back reactor and skimmer or something.
Ok so this is my tank. As you can see the green algae on the left and right WHITE rocks only. Although the snails have gotten ahold of the algae and have diminished the amount quite drastically.
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mcgyvr
New member
Totally normal... and oh so minor..
Nothing is wrong.. Nothing is out of the ordinary..
It will go away in time.. 3 weeks is hardly sufficient..
Typically 3 weeks isn't even long enough for a tank with dry rock to cycle on its own.. Then you have weeks/month or 2 after that for the ugly stages to subside..
Just keep up with normal tank maintenance (typically 20% water change every 2 weeks) and it can/will pass.. You clean up crew will also do work on it but they can't do it all overnight..
Patience..
Nothing is wrong.. Nothing is out of the ordinary..
It will go away in time.. 3 weeks is hardly sufficient..
Typically 3 weeks isn't even long enough for a tank with dry rock to cycle on its own.. Then you have weeks/month or 2 after that for the ugly stages to subside..
Just keep up with normal tank maintenance (typically 20% water change every 2 weeks) and it can/will pass.. You clean up crew will also do work on it but they can't do it all overnight..
Patience..
keep in mind that NoPox is a form of carbon dosing which feeds the bacteria increasing populations which in turn results with lower nitrate and phosphates.
There are products like agent green which is an LC which binds with the phosphate.
Both need skimming to work appropriately.
You need neither at this time, just sit back, should get a a lot uglier.
There are products like agent green which is an LC which binds with the phosphate.
Both need skimming to work appropriately.
You need neither at this time, just sit back, should get a a lot uglier.
Yea. I'm just trying to figure out what kind of coral can handle the bulbs I got for the fixture. Corallife 50/50 50% 10k white light and 50% actinic blue
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I agree, no need to worry because it is totally normal. I would not go adding stuff like gfo unless u know u have a phosphate issue. If u plan on corals it can do more harm then good. For whatever reason people think they are supposed to use gfo. So they do, then turn around & can’t figure out why the coral isn’t thriving & growing.
At the expense of sounding dumb. What is this GFO that you are talking about. Seen it all over but don't have a clue what it is.
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