green hair algae?

[thebanker]

I don't think Mg has any direct effect on the photosynthesis process. Since photosynthesis is basically CO2 + H2O + light -> C6H12O6 (sugar) + O2.

 

[rreed]

Magnesium

Magnesium

Raise your magesium up around 2000 that should rid the hair algae problem your having. Just do it slowley and then lower it slowly.

That will not do nothing for hair algae! I have had luck with mexican red leg crabs and a lettuce Nudibranch. I would add 1 crab per gallon of water volume. I have a 34 gallon solana, with liverock it only holds 30 gallons of water. I have 30 crabs, 5 mexican turbo snails (which do not touch the hair algae) and the Lettuce nudi. The crabs and the nudi went to town on the hair algae and are keeping the rocks clean.

 

[Shakes]

Is the algae build up in just a few back corners or spread throughout the tank?
If it is in a few corners then I have found that proper water flow around my live rock and preventing detritis build up as key factors. To me, detritis builds up in the cornors with little water flow provides the 1,2 combination for hair algae. Examine your water flow and increase it in areas where it tends to grow. I also use an extra powerhead to 'wash' down my coral and live rock to dislodge detritis when I do water changes. I then allow my filter to collect all the suspended detritis, then I change my filter sock a couple hours after the water change to remove it from my system. Once hair algae starts growing it attacts more settling of detritis. This in turn feeds upon itself. A toothbrush to scrub the rock prior to a water change will help to eliminate it. I am still removing my hair algae issue since converting to a reef tank 2 months ago. I now what I will do when I get home from work

 

[tcollins]

I've got a couple of spots I'm fighting also. After reading everything I can find, here and elsewere, I'm convinced the only thing you can do is remove what you can, increase flow on the problem area's and eliminate phosphate. No food - No grow!!

 

[troyman]

raising mag to 2000 is crazy

 

[Ralph ATL]

There are a lot of hobbyists in your same position. Reducing your nitrate and phosphate levels to a zero reading will help in getting rid of many type of algae pests. IME, reducing nitrate and phosphate levels too low can kill or cause problems for many types of coral. Running GAC & GFO will all help in reducing the growth of these type of pests. In many cases they will not eradicate the pest. Vodka dosing will help reduce the nitrate and phosphate levels also, but will not necessarily eradicate the pest either.

A common problem is being able to identify your pest to a catagory correctly: true algae, cyano, dino, bacteria & other assorted pests that look similar. In many cases a micro look at your pest is best to properly ID it to one of these catagories.

IMHO, if you are faced with an algal type pest problem, it is best to implement an algae pest control program strategy:


1) Wet skimming with a good quality skimmer. Clean your skimmer cup at least once per week.

2) Reduce your nitrates and phosphates to a zero reading using the hobby grade test kits. See Randy's articles regarding this:

Phosphate and the Reef Aquarium
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/index.php

Nitrate in the Reef Aquarium
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/august2003/chem.htm

3) Proper lighting. I find that the higher wavelength bulbs are less conducive to algae growth. I now run 20,000 K bulbs from using 10,000 K bulbs.

4) Proper day length is a good thing also. I would not run your lights for more than 12 hrs total. Keep in mind that light entering from a window nearby is added to this figure.

5) Running GAC is a good practice in my book. It will help reduce the total dissolved organic carbons in your tank water and this is a food source.

6) Proper 30% per month total water changes will help export the DOC as well as some of the pests in the water column. It will help maintain the micro-nutrients as well.

7) Physical removal of the pest by hand, scrubbing and siphoning is important as well. If the amount of pest in your aquarium is overwhelming, perhaps dealing with one section at a time is a better idea.

8) Proper water circulation in your tank to prevent dead zones. When dealing with cyanobacteria pests increasing the flow where it grows seems to help.

9) Use RODI water for all top-off, salt mixing, additive mixes... etc.

10) Dosing iron may have benefits for macro-algae, but if you are experiencing algae pest problems than I would stop dosing it as it can add to the problem in many cases.

11) If you are dosing other supplements such as vitamins, amino acids, or others that contain a mix of supplements other than the basic alk., calcium and magnesium, I would stop these until you gain control of your pest. This includes many of the store bought products with unknown ingredients. Dosing Vodka or sugar to reduce your nitrates and phosphates would be an exception in my opinion.

12) Proper feeding habits. This can be the number one problem when trying to reduce your nitrate and phosphate levels. Use low phosphate fish foods.

13) IMHO, lighted refugiums may be a problem when trying to deal with an algae type pest problem. They are wonderful when it comes to reducing nitrates and phosphates. However, the light over most refugiums is conducive to the microalgae type pests. If the refugium becomes infested with a microalgae pest, I would clean it throughly of all pests as best as possible, remove the macro and turn off the lights until you gain control of your pest. Re-using the same macroalgae later may serve as a source for re-infestation of your pest.

14) Adding fish and other creatures that will eat your algae pest will help.

15) There are other items that can be added to this list if others care too share and some of the items listed may be disputed.

____________________________________________________________________________________________________ _______


If after you have tried all these procedures and you are still loosing the battle, I would recommend that you initiate the use of AlgaeFix Marine based on the reports I have seen in this thread:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=16056708#post16056708

I hate to see anyone give up on this hobby due to algae type pest problems.

HERE is your answer!

 

[arinova8]

thanks for all the tips

 

[wayoutacontrol]

I have alot of green hair algae, and I have tried many things, the thing that seems to be working the best for me is a couple of mexican turbo snails.

 

[drewp808]

does the mag thing safe

 

[eclown]

One thing that may help with the removing the hair algae part is a sea hair slug. Dolabella more specifically. They are like lawn mowers on hair algae. Just keep a close eye on any power heads and don't stress them out. They can ink much like a squid. I'd say 1 dolabella = 10 or more large turbo snails!
At least that's my experience with them. Then you can pay more attention the the cause once you've removed the symptoms.

 

[epstein]

Also if you have Clams.....You can poison and destroy them with too much mag and alk.....just look up heavy metal poisoning for clams.....I know cause I did it

 

[workman]

If you are not using GFO, get an inexpensive small reactor and try it. You will likely see the remainder disappear.

 

[arinova8]

thanks to everyone for all the input and ideas