Guide to setup a Quarantine Tank (QT).

[Dr. Reef]

lol. ok let me explain. once i am done with the QT (meaning after all fish been treated and moved to DT) and all the meds have been removed via carbon or cuprisorb then i take the HOB and clean its insides off debris with the dirty (old) QT water along with the media that was in the HOB as they both will have some build up of debris in them.
Once cleaned now your QT water is dirty so i take it all out clean the tank and fill it 100% new saltwater. This will still give you an instant cycle tank.
Second part of your question: you match the salinity and temp of qt almost to dt then move the fish and u dont have to acclimate.
thirdly: Prazipro. you can run this before or after the ich treatment.
i generally run it first for 2 weeks. Dose is written on the bottle itself. After dosing Prazipro you dont have to do anything for a week. After 1st week do a 50% water change and re-dose 50% less than before and run another week, after 2nd week do another 50% water change and then u can start either hypo or copper treatment or just simply observe.
if you need more help please let me know.

 

[dh50]

Thanks much

 

[ncc2015]

Great post. Thank you. Should help a lot when I decide to stock my tank.

 

[borg1of2]

I thought I read in one of the replies that simply having a QT and monitoring the fish for 8 weeks for issues, is an acceptable approach to QT'ing fish, is that correct? What risks are there for that approach?

I am asking as I am not an advanced aquariust, and am trying to follow the QT process established here, but due to my own errors with the QT and the chemicals, I appear to be killing more fish then I am introducing. I am now about ready to lose my 4th fish in my QT, only have 3 in the DT. My current conclusion is that all of these variables and chemicals are too much and that I am thinking about just watching them for 8 weeks and not doing any chemicals, which means no Prazipro, no Cupramine, no carbon. Just simply feeding them and doing weekly water changes.

Thanks

 

[hogfanreefer]

lol. ok let me explain. once i am done with the QT (meaning after all fish been treated and moved to DT) and all the meds have been removed via carbon or cuprisorb then i take the HOB and clean its insides off debris with the dirty (old) QT water along with the media that was in the HOB as they both will have some build up of debris in them.
Once cleaned now your QT water is dirty so i take it all out clean the tank and fill it 100% new saltwater. This will still give you an instant cycle tank.
Second part of your question: you match the salinity and temp of qt almost to dt then move the fish and u dont have to acclimate.
thirdly: Prazipro. you can run this before or after the ich treatment.
i generally run it first for 2 weeks. Dose is written on the bottle itself. After dosing Prazipro you dont have to do anything for a week. After 1st week do a 50% water change and re-dose 50% less than before and run another week, after 2nd week do another 50% water change and then u can start either hypo or copper treatment or just simply observe.
if you need more help please let me know.

bnumair, my routine is to remove the sponge filter every week or so and rinse it well in either water I just removed from the DT in a water change or fresh made saltwater and putting it back in use (while discarding the water of course). Is this an acceptable course of action? Haven't had any problems with doing this yet that I can tell.

 

[Dr. Reef]

I thought I read in one of the replies that simply having a QT and monitoring the fish for 8 weeks for issues, is an acceptable approach to QT'ing fish, is that correct? What risks are there for that approach?

I am asking as I am not an advanced aquariust, and am trying to follow the QT process established here, but due to my own errors with the QT and the chemicals, I appear to be killing more fish then I am introducing. I am now about ready to lose my 4th fish in my QT, only have 3 in the DT. My current conclusion is that all of these variables and chemicals are too much and that I am thinking about just watching them for 8 weeks and not doing any chemicals, which means no Prazipro, no Cupramine, no carbon. Just simply feeding them and doing weekly water changes.

Thanks

Your assumption is very true, just buying fish and keeping them in QT for 8-10 weeks is plenty to make sure you are not introducing a sick fish or parasite to your DT.
I suggest treating all tangs no matter what as they are like 100% ich carriers.
if you dont want to treat and just observe that is ok to do so. That is actual purpose of a QT.

 

[Dr. Reef]

bnumair, my routine is to remove the sponge filter every week or so and rinse it well in either water I just removed from the DT in a water change or fresh made saltwater and putting it back in use (while discarding the water of course). Is this an acceptable course of action? Haven't had any problems with doing this yet that I can tell.

its risky. Hard to say how much bacteria is washed away going your route. After all most of the bacteria is on those filters. Rinsing them will wash away or kill bacteria in case parameters are not the same.
I would try not to wash them while u have fish in the tank. After treatment nd fish moved to DT then sure go ahead there is no harm that way.
If you do decide to rinse filters while QT has fish then have Prime/Amquel/Ammolock etc handy or have water made with same salinity and temp in case u see a mini spike.

 

[Dr. Reef]

Well how big does the qt be?

It all depends on what fish species you will be carrying. But a 20-40 gal is a great start. I have QT 2 tangs in a 20 gal Tank before with no problem.

 

[hogfanreefer]

its risky. Hard to say how much bacteria is washed away going your route. After all most of the bacteria is on those filters. Rinsing them will wash away or kill bacteria in case parameters are not the same.
I would try not to wash them while u have fish in the tank. After treatment nd fish moved to DT then sure go ahead there is no harm that way.
If you do decide to rinse filters while QT has fish then have Prime/Amquel/Ammolock etc handy or have water made with same salinity and temp in case u see a mini spike.

Thanks, I'll suspend the filter washes. It never occurred to me the bacteria could be washed away. I have a large amount of ceramic media that may be why I have gotten away with it. I think I will remove the sponges and replace them with ceramic media I have in my DT sump as soon as my tank is fish less.

 

[dh50]

in my fourth day since placing frozen shrimp in tank (37 gal) to start cycle. testing for ammonia everyday but yet to really see a big change in test results. i have a salifert nh4 profi test is that a pretty good test? it just seems hard to read as far as the color change goes. or is it just too soon to see the big spike yet? thanks

 

[Cozwey]

When I did my test with the shrimp I left it in for 3 days. When I removed it the smell was not pleasant. During that time I did not have any change in my levels. I do have 1 pound of LR per gallon and it is quite mature. (No DR either). I discussed this with Dr. Reef and it is quite possible that I had a small cycle of my tank but due to the LR and live sand I did not get a spike. I am now over a month in and I have completed 2x20% water changes. My levels are zero across the board with 8.2 Ph. I am using an API test kit which works fine for me. I have no reference regarding the one you are using however I am sure it is fine.

 

[Dr. Reef]

in my fourth day since placing frozen shrimp in tank (37 gal) to start cycle. testing for ammonia everyday but yet to really see a big change in test results. i have a salifert nh4 profi test is that a pretty good test? it just seems hard to read as far as the color change goes. or is it just too soon to see the big spike yet? thanks

Can you tell me details about your qt setup. Every thing you have in it and how it was setup and source of water rock media etc if you have it in qt.

 

[dh50]

sure. i set this up as a permanent qt. i have a 37 gal with marineland penguin 200 hob filter running bio-wheel only as the filter that came with it contained carbon. you suggested ceramic media and just have not had time to get yet. this aquarium came as complete set up with heater and small led light. temp running at about 78. bare bottom no sand or live rock with a small pump (maybe a little too small) circulating. my water comes from a brs 5 stage ro/di. thanks

 

[Dr. Reef]

If everything is new and no bacteria was imported via seeded filters or bacteria in bottle etc then either shrimp has not started decomposing yet or maybe the test kit might be bad. Can you get a second opinion on test?

 

[dh50]

Maybe. I'll see what I can do and let you know results. Did notice just this am first signs of decomposition

 

[Dr. Reef]

Give it a day or 2 and take a sample of water to lfs and get second opinion on ammonia.

 

[milk man]

can't get QT tank to cycle

can't get QT tank to cycle

I've set up a 20 Gallon QT tank with a Fluval MSF 106 canister filter. I've filled two of the compartments with ceramic rings and kept the sponges on the intake side. The tank has 1.026 SG saltwater, plenty of flow, and is kept at ~80 degrees.

I dosed 3 ppm of NH3 to the tank using ammonia from ACE hardware almost a month ago, but still don't have nitrates and my NH3 still shows up as at least 1 ppm. (API test kit)

My Display tank cycled in about two weeks, but this tank just doesn't seem to make progress. Do you think it's just a matter of less surface area for the filter media, where my DT had plenty of live rock surface area to help the bacteria take hold and I just need to be patient?

I am not a fan of bacteria starters, but at this point I am wondering what I may be doing wrong.

 

[Dr. Reef]

Guys i am very sorry for not responding fast, My mother is diagnosed with colonial cancer and had been admitted to hospital along with a major surgery today. She is better but there are still tumor Doctors were not able to get to and would be needing chemo for it. Please keep us in your prayers.
Will resume responding soon as things get normal in few days.
Good luck and Safe Reefing.

 

[Dr. Reef]

I've set up a 20 Gallon QT tank with a Fluval MSF 106 canister filter. I've filled two of the compartments with ceramic rings and kept the sponges on the intake side. The tank has 1.026 SG saltwater, plenty of flow, and is kept at ~80 degrees.

I dosed 3 ppm of NH3 to the tank using ammonia from ACE hardware almost a month ago, but still don't have nitrates and my NH3 still shows up as at least 1 ppm. (API test kit)

My Display tank cycled in about two weeks, but this tank just doesn't seem to make progress. Do you think it's just a matter of less surface area for the filter media, where my DT had plenty of live rock surface area to help the bacteria take hold and I just need to be patient?

I am not a fan of bacteria starters, but at this point I am wondering what I may be doing wrong.

i suspect media not enough to provide surface for the amount of bacteria needed. try doubling the quantity in HOB. if you cant place more in HOB then in a media sock close to powerhead or directly under HOB where it gets max flow. Also get a second opinion on test kit. They do go bad.

 

[michfish5]

So sorry to hear about your mother. Keeping you and your family in my thoughts and prayers. Don't worry about us on here. Family is far more important.