hob filter necessary?
So I have my 55g QT setup with a penguin 350 hob filter and a koralia 1200 gph. I changed out 15 gallons of water and went to go restart the penguin, won't restart. I tried disassemblying it, dumping water to prime it, etc. no go.
For the time being I added a second koralia on the opposite end of the other koralia so I have lots of flow/water surface.
My media for the cycle is on the bottom of the tank, I don't store it in the hob.
I am wondering if it is really necessary to have the hob or two koralias suffice?
If a hob is necessary can you recommend one besides the marineland because I am close to throwing it on the ground and smashing it (hulk smash).
P.S. the tank is one of teh $1 per gallon ones so I think certain filters don't fit it proper.
I have the cowfish, cardinal and jawfish now in quarantine for about 10 days. They all are eating and seem healthy. I haven't done a water change yet but nitrite is 4ppb and ammonia is zero. I am torn about treating with Prazipro. Do I put it in the tank, disconnect the skimmer and just wait for 5 days, then do a water change. I also wonder why a quarantine tank that is permanent cannot use copper if you have live rock. I don't have live rock but I have a block of the marine pure biofilter media. Is it that it kills the bacteria living in it?
ended up getting mine to work after some tinkering.
I removed the other koralia though because it was chaos in there man chaos!!!!
net it with your QT net to a bucket of water from DT then net with DT net
I just net with QT net to a container of DT water and dump him in the DT no net
How often would you need to change the biowheel? I had a clown that went through TTM in 2 separate hospital tanks and finally made it into my QT, which has a biowheel and floss that was sitting in my DT. The clown died 5 days after being in the QT, with no signs of disease and 0 ammonia, .1 nitrite, 10 nitrate. He had an internal parasite while undergoing TTM but I think he was successfully treated with metro and prazi. He was swimming well and eating well and all of a sudden died after 5 days in the QT. Now the question is whether I should empty the QT and sterilize it or not. If so, should I sterilize/replace the biowheel? I plan on throwing the floss away and replacing it with another one from the DT.
So I ran a hang on filter for about a month in my main tank to jump start my emergency tank. however, I checked my parameters and my nitrites are off the charts( nitrates are very low if anything non existent) ammonia low as well. I have a power head and bubble maker in the QT and I did use the carbon in the hang on filter:sad1:I used tap water with prime and developed calcium all over the top of the glass. removed water below calcium line and scraped it off onto a towel and add more water ( with prime). what did I do wrong and how do I fix it get my tank on track? please help. sg is about 1.015 without any fish. bought a watchman goby and put him in without testing and he was doing bad to say the least so I put him in my display and hes fine now.
Thanks. Im gonna use stress zyme to speed up the cycle! Do i need to remove my carbon in the HOB filter?
I'm starting the cycle of my QT tank, which will be set up permanently.
20 gallon long
AC 20 on it
few pieces of PVC
1.024 salinity
Was advised that my sponge and bio balls in the filter wouldn't be enough to house aerobic bacteria, so I should toss in a piece or 2 of my dry rock.
All that will be in my QT tank is a fish or 2 (3 max)...small fish at that. Wouldn't the material in the filter be enough to handle the necessary bacteria?
On a side note, if the filter bacteria are enough, I can at least have a rock that's seeded with bacteria for when I set the display tank up.
Can I cycle the QT tank with the rock in it and then remove it to seed the display tank? Or will that throw off the cycle balance (for lack of a better term).
if you cycle the qt with LR and then remove it after tank cycles, you are also removing the surface that is harboring bacteria so you will throw the tank back into cycle. its best to have ceramic media or floss, place it in an established tank for 2-3 weeks and then move to qt pretty much giving you instant cycle.
Too piggy back on this can you start a clean QT tank with ceramic media, filter floss and a fully cured LR to seed the ceramic media? Then remove the LR once the ceramic media is viable? I understand you can not dose copper with the LR in the QT.
Ideally keeping a mesh bag of ceramic media in your DT for a month would be better but I'd prefer not to have to wait a month for that just to start a 3 month QT to get a fish in the DT four months from now.