H. magnifica pics
- Thread starter garygb
- Start date
Ron Popeil
Love them clownfish.
ive always fancied the thick stubby tentacles of some folks magnificas.....great looking specimens!
Thanks. The water parameters are: 80F, sg 1.026, nitrates (the last time I checked) undetectable, ph 8.3-8.4 with lights on (the last time I checked). I'm not one to test often unless something looks amiss. I do partial water changes (15-20%) every two weeks. I do check the sg at the time of water changes and try to keep it between 1.026 and 1.027 (ideally 35 ppt salinity).
~SIRENA~
New member
I have a question. I stopped by my lfs and there was a beautiful purple base ritteri that had just arrived the night before. It looked great and I bought it. I thought it would be best to leave it at the lfs for a couple of days so I would not stress it out any more than I had to. Do you think I should wait, or should I go pick it up? The lfs has a very nice set up.
Thanks,
Adriana
BTW Great pics!!! Love that last one garygb
Thanks,
Adriana
BTW Great pics!!! Love that last one garygb
Sirena, there are two schools of thought on the subject, leave it witht he dealer and see how it does or, if it is healthy, bring it home and get it into optimum conditions stat. If your lfs is above the norm and are providing the anemone with proper lighting and water flow and other animals on the system appear in peak health, then you might be fine to live it there. But, so often lfs don't provide perfect conditions, in which case the anemone can deteriorate beyond the point of return.
sfarid, i have two mags in a 50 gallon under 6 t5-ho. I have one in a 40 gallon (I just moved it) right under a 150 watt, 10,000K MH. I have another in a ~50 gallon system directly under a 150 watt 10,000K bulb. I am using Coralvue brand MH bulbs. I've tried Ushio, but the anemones seemed to shrink under them and require a clear, UV absorbing shield. I've had the Coralvues for less than a month, and so far, I like them.
I'd be interested in knowing what other H. mag keepers (who use MH) prefer in terms of brand and Kelvin.
I suspect that the cringing I saw with the Ushio was the result of UV. This is anecdotal, but still somewhat scientific: There is a brand of sunscreen (Blue Lizard) that has a plastic cap that is sensitive to UVA/UVB rays. It turns a darker blue depending on the intensity of the UV. Under the Coralvue, the blue that develops is much lighter compared to the Ushio. Even with another piece of glass besides the MH glass shield, the indicator turns a deep blue. Because glass absorbs the majority of UVB, I hypothesize that it might be UVA that is being released. I'm sure that someone who has more precise instruments than a plastic cap ;-) could zero on on just what's going on with some brands of MH bulbs. It's a little disconcerting to think that UVA might be emitted considering the fact that UVA is implicated in the development of melanoma in humans. Whatever the case, my anemones seem to prefer the lower UV intensity MHs in contrast to the higher. The t-5s will also cause a faint blue on the indicator, slightly less than the Coralvues, but dramatically less than the Ushio--or full daylight sunshine.
sfarid, i have two mags in a 50 gallon under 6 t5-ho. I have one in a 40 gallon (I just moved it) right under a 150 watt, 10,000K MH. I have another in a ~50 gallon system directly under a 150 watt 10,000K bulb. I am using Coralvue brand MH bulbs. I've tried Ushio, but the anemones seemed to shrink under them and require a clear, UV absorbing shield. I've had the Coralvues for less than a month, and so far, I like them.
I'd be interested in knowing what other H. mag keepers (who use MH) prefer in terms of brand and Kelvin.
I suspect that the cringing I saw with the Ushio was the result of UV. This is anecdotal, but still somewhat scientific: There is a brand of sunscreen (Blue Lizard) that has a plastic cap that is sensitive to UVA/UVB rays. It turns a darker blue depending on the intensity of the UV. Under the Coralvue, the blue that develops is much lighter compared to the Ushio. Even with another piece of glass besides the MH glass shield, the indicator turns a deep blue. Because glass absorbs the majority of UVB, I hypothesize that it might be UVA that is being released. I'm sure that someone who has more precise instruments than a plastic cap ;-) could zero on on just what's going on with some brands of MH bulbs. It's a little disconcerting to think that UVA might be emitted considering the fact that UVA is implicated in the development of melanoma in humans. Whatever the case, my anemones seem to prefer the lower UV intensity MHs in contrast to the higher. The t-5s will also cause a faint blue on the indicator, slightly less than the Coralvues, but dramatically less than the Ushio--or full daylight sunshine.
Sorry Henry, I just read your post. I don't test Ca, sorry. I use ReefCrystals and hope the Ca, Mg and alk are on target. I went through periods of testing the alk and adding two part, etc. and I know it's important with stony corals, but with my anemones I do regular water changes (now w RO/DI--and that's only been in the last year) about every week or every other week (15-20%), maintain the specific gravity and temp. and don't really test otherwise.
As far as flow in the tank Sirena, in the 50 gallon I have a Tunze Stream, along with some flow from the ps and a power filter. In the other ~50-55 system (including the sump) I have a Koralia 3 and a mag 7 return. In the 40 gallon, I have a maxijet mod and a maxijet 900, along w a ps and power filter.
As far as flow in the tank Sirena, in the 50 gallon I have a Tunze Stream, along with some flow from the ps and a power filter. In the other ~50-55 system (including the sump) I have a Koralia 3 and a mag 7 return. In the 40 gallon, I have a maxijet mod and a maxijet 900, along w a ps and power filter.
They are 39 watt. It's a breeder 50 gallon. I have Aquasun, which is 10,000K I believe. I have Aqua blue, which is 12,000K, I think, and two daylight 6000K (Giesemann) and and Blue plus, which I don't know the Kelvin. My tank has more of the shallow water, i.e. white/yellow look than lots of people want. But, anemones tend to be from more shallow water, and I personally prefer the tank not to be too blue myself.
I would say the bioload is minimal. Aside from anemones, I have a pair of ocellaris in the tank with the purple based mags, a maroon clown in the tank with the reddish based mags (who lives in RBTAs) and in the 40 gallon I have a percula that lives in the magnifica. So, the most fish I have in any one tank is two. From what I've read, the contributions of an anemone to the bioload is minimal, i.e., the ammonia by-products that they release is largely offset by the utilization of those by-products by the zooxanthellae.
