hair algae problem

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7985403#post7985403 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Drakis
I just added a fuge to grow macro algae, and got a yellow tang. But the yellow tang did not touch the stuff. I also cut back on the light to only 6 hours a day. That pretty much took care of it. IMO a tang would be to big for a 46 gal.




I second this..I was getting some nasty hair algae in my 75 Reef.. I divided my sump off and placed LOTS of Macro algae in.. I use a light off an old 55 to light it. I have been able to tell a big difference . I leave my lights on about 7 hours.
There isn't a Tang that is appropriate size wise and adding another fish would defeat the purpose..It would add more waste..

Turbo Snails are good too:)
 
Outy please respond. I'm interested in what you have to say. You just confused me, not helped. Anyways, I had been using the on tap stuff. I thought it was good but I guess not. I didn't use the distilled bottled water because I heard it could be dangerous if it was distilled through copper pipes. I guess I will scratch off the tang idea and just get some more turbos. Mine sure don't seem to mess with the stuff though.
 
sorrty wife had my first born today :) .little girl 8lb 9oz

anyway not enough light or the wrong spectrum can bring on the hair algea in a bad way even with good water let alone a small amount of nitrates.

when my bulbs get old 8-12 months i will see HA starting in places, i change the bulbs and its gone in a week. [honestly i should not wait to see HA to change bulbs]

75w total is not allot of light for both daylight and atinic

for the same amount of water you have i have 110w atinic PC and 175w MH

im not saying go out and buy more lighting i dont know what you want to keep, but i think your tang will be fat :) if you get one,,, [he wont be able to keep up with it]

a fuge will help loads but not the complete answer.


i think i would start another thread

WHAT CAN I KEEP WITH 75W

besides HA

this will get more replys and knowledge then you have in this thread on the root of it all. as well id hit a few HA threads as well lighting threads so you learn and know whats rite for you.
 
I did these 2 things and they worked really well: (1) Get a phosphate reactor and run Phosban and (2) add snails to harvest whatever minimal algae growth remains. I have 4 turbo snails in my 60. I used to have algae growth in just a few days after cleaning, did the toothbrush scrubbing, did the big water changes, still had hair algae. But now my tank stays clear for 2-3 weeks after a water change/cleaning and my live rock has no visible algae anymore, ever. The snails mow it all off before it gets a chance to spread. These 2 things are the best things I ever did to my tank. Maintenance is much easier now and my tank looks great.
 
cool and congratulations on the baby outy. Ok so lets see if i got this straight...

1.Hair algae will stay at bay if you have low enough lighting (like i did before i was given the compact light) and if you have lots of lighting. However, I am somewhere in between (plus its a cheap light. thought it was 10,000k but who really knows) and it is causing the hair algae to grow like crazy. Is that kinda what you are saying?

2. Are nitrates and phosphates the only two nutrients that I need to watch out for as far as feeding the hair algae? If so, if I can completely eliminate both of those, will the lighting no longer be of concern (even if it is currently part of the problem)?
 
Oh and as far as starting a thread on what to keep with 75w, i honestly think I am doing pretty good. I know more light is recomended, but my Xenia has split 10x or more, button polyps are multiplying, and mushrooms are beginning to split. All look very healthy! Honestly the mushrooms hated being up towards the top. I think it was actually too much lighht for them, so they are in the middle and seem very content.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8001139#post8001139 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tripleup05
I didn't use the distilled bottled water because I heard it could be dangerous if it was distilled through copper pipes.

This is the case on some distilled water. Wal-Mart distilled is not the case. I have been using it for 2 years with no issues. It states on the bottle that it uses a DI process. I have lots of inverts. I also test it on occasion, I always get a zero Cu reading.
 
dont use shrooms as i guide for light, i had 3 im my sump that thrived in total darkness for 10 weeks. i dont believe zenia is a big light fan either and my zoos thrive in the shade.

what im saying is that hair algea likes low wattage ligting, the light you had before just grew it slower.
 
Ok gotcha its starting to come together. BUT before I go and buy better lights, would eliminating all nitrates and phosphates cure the problem so I don't have to spend all that money on PC's?
 
I don't think low wattage of light is the case for Hair algae, because there are many people with fish only tanks that are low light that never had a hair algae bloom.

I have hair algae too in my reef tank, and it is really a pain having this algae in the tank but everyone says to do a fuge with micro-algae for reducing Phosphates and Nitrates so the Hair algae will not feed on them anymore.

I am doing this, also I bought the Sailfert Phosphate killer.. Bought some turbos, pincushion and a sea hare.... I will let you know if something works for me...

But I still beleive that in the wild mother nature created an animal or animals that eat this Hair algae.. Hope someone will discover what it is so in near future no one will have anymore Hair algae problems..
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8004484#post8004484 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CoMMaNdeR
I don't think low wattage of light is the case for Hair algae, because there are many people with fish only tanks that are low light that never had a hair algae bloom.

You know, I was thinking that too. But what outy is saying isnt way out there either. I know i've read similar in books. I wish I could buy a fuge and stock it with macro algaes, but I dont even have a sump:( I guess I should probably give the phosphate killer a go.
 
the problem with animals that mow algea, once the algea is gone they starve. [thats another story]

phosban reactors are cheap mine was 27 bucks at marinedepot. the media is a little pricey and i use rowaphos but its worth it.

BEFORE buying anything lights or a reacto or fuge. [patients is the key here] Study some more and get some homework done.

i have an opinion and theres others that follow and some that dont. dont take my word for it learn what is best for you.
 
well i have 390 watts of pc lighting in my 75 gal and that works out to 5.2 watts per gal. I still have hair algae. im beginning to wonder if it has something to do with pc lighting?
 
$27 bucks isn't too bad. i was expecting more than that. and yea, i will just keep researching it and hopefully i will eventually get it fixed! What kind of critter does mow the algae other than tangs and snails. I mean they could always be removed. I would give it away before letting is starve ofcourse
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8007597#post8007597 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jenghes
A sea hare (nudi) as mentioned above.

To be honest, I know very little about them, and I know I have never seen any in my local fish stores. Are they uncommon? If they aren't too expensive I will definately look into getting some, if i can find some.
 
lawnmower blenny i love the little monsters

certain tangs are awesome

seahairs get huge and knock stuff over

when the HA is gone you can feed a little seaweed ;)

TKByrnes theres more to HA then lighting alone a common mistake im guilty of is testing seeing O for resluts and thing i dont have a problem when in fact its there its just being consumed by the HA . i have beat HA 3 times in 10 years and i can tell you i dont know it all or i would have SPS by now lol
 
Back
Top