Hammer Coral Concern

[jpitts4304]

Hi RC! Jeff here. New to the hobby - 10 months now. I have a 125 gallon tank and all parameters are normal. Still new to the hobby, I check them all, and I do mean all, once a week using Red Sea kits. My question is regarding my hammer coral that has been in the tank for about 3 months. From day one it was doing well, opening up fully daily and living life as a coral normally. Within the past two weeks, the hammer has become somewhat withdrawn, refusing to open fully. I am kind of at a loss since this has no obvious reason for happening, There is a five head Frogspawn, a two head Frogspawn, a Kenya tree, and a Brain coral in the same region that are all still doing great. None of them are within direct reach of any other. I will try to attach a picture of the Hammer from today. Any suggestions, thoughts, or help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[nereefpat]

Wall hammers are infamously difficult as far as LPS, while branching hammers are among the easiest stony corals.

What are your specific parameters for: alk, Ca, specific gravity? Less important but still sometimes problematic would be Mg, nitrates, phosphate.

Specific lighting (type, brand, wattage)?

Anything that could be picking on it, like an angel?

 

[jpitts4304]

No Angels in the tank Calcium is 480 - 500ppm; Specific Gravity is 1.023 with calibrated refractometer; Alkalinity is 14 dkh; LED lighting (2) 72 inch Current Orbit Pro Marine bars with Current Orbit Loop system including wave pumps and stream pump; MG is 1480ppm; Phosphates at .08 to .12 ppm; Nitrates are 10 to 20 ppm.

 

[Reefpuck]

I know you said all your parameters are normal, but your calcium and alkalinity are a little high. Some people might say the same about your phosphates and nitrates. Those combined could be one of your issues.

Do you do water changes?

My experience with wall euphylias isn't very good as well... I've always gone for branching.

I'd try bringing your calcium/alk/nitrate/phosphates down a bit and see if that helps.

 

[jpitts4304]

Thanks for the post guys - I was doing weekly water changes up to about 15% to 20%. I changed it to once every two weeks around 30%. I am running a skimmer daily 24/7. Suspected my phosphates and nitrates were getting a little higher than I like. I am working on that now.Suggestions on alk and calcium levels? It seems the more I read up on these things and speak to the local hobbyist, the more confused I get. Thanks!

 

[jpitts4304]

Thanks Josh

 

[nereefpat]

Well done on the detailed response.

I would start topping off with saltwater until the s.g. in the tank is 1.026.

Make sure you aren't adding any alk or Ca supplements, and let those fall over time to about 9 dKH and 450 ppm respectively.

PO4 is fine, although slightly higher than we like.

I would like to see nitrates at 10 or less.

Like I said, though, wall hammers are tough.

 

[billdogg]

^^^What all of them have said about wall hammers^^^

They generally come not as a whole coral but rather a section. So you are starting out with something that was cut in half. They can certainly heal, but often they just never recover.

As for your levels -

Calcium - aim for the 400-450 range

Alkalinity - 8 to 9 dKH is fine. Any higher and you will see fairly rapid buildup on all your equipment, including on the inside of pipes and pumps.

Magnesium - 1350 is a good place to be, although higher won't necessarily hurt anything. Much below that and it will be difficult to keep your CA and Alk up where they should be.

Nitrates ideally should be below 10ppm. Water changes are really the only cure for that.

Phosphates should be in the .003 range. Zero is not the goal - all the creatures we keep need some for basic metabolic processes. Allow it to get much higher than where it's currently at and you will begin to see new life in your system. Sure, it'll be explosive algae growth, but alive it will be.

hth

 

[jpitts4304]

Thanks Pat

 

[jpitts4304]

Thanks billdogg