Hanna Checker Question:

aprilschutt

New member
Hanna Checker Question:

I just got a phosphate checker (the 713 low range) and used it for the first time today. Previously I have been using the API test kit. I know, I know...anyway, with the API I was getting a reading of .25 which I realize is high. After using the Hanna checker today it gave me a reading of 0.00. I know this can't be right since I have a hair algae problem and the API can't be that off can it? So, what did I do wrong with the Hanna checker. Why is it reading zero?

I'm not really looking for advice on other test kits right now I am just looking for help with my new checker. :)

Thanks everyone!
 
It may well be reading 0 because the algae is absorbing all the phosphates in the water. That does not mean you do not have a phosphate problem, simply that the algae is absorbing all of it.
 
Ok so then how do I know what it is? Or do I need to know what it is? Mainly I want my hair algae gone. :)

go down a checklist
what are you feeding/whats in it
how much are you feeding
how many times a day do you feed
how long are the lights on
is the rock live/dry
so on an so forth
 
I have a similar situation where nitrates and phosphates are undetectable but I used to have HA. What I did was 1) carbon dose using NoPoX from red sea and 2) use a little GFO mixed with my carbon.
 
I have a similar situation where nitrates and phosphates are undetectable but I used to have HA. What I did was 1) carbon dose using NoPoX from red sea and 2) use a little GFO mixed with my carbon.

question did you ever figure it out or did you just add equipment to bandaid it
 
The Hanna checker instructions have to be followed to the letter. I was getting the 0.00 also. When you put the cuvette in and the checker says C2 you have to hold the button until a 3 minute timer starts. If you just click the button it will show 0.00. When I followed the steps I read 0.04. If this isn't the case then please disregard.


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question did you ever figure it out or did you just add equipment to bandaid it

No equipment was added as you can tell. At the end of the day it was a move with standard reefing practices which paid off. Now on to your point.

I went through the checklist you mention and nothing was amiss (feeding, light schedule, water changes, etc). The only thing that it could be attributed to was that the live rock I had initially bought was actually from another tank which might have had phosphate problems (and I just put my rock in). The majority of the algae was growing on the rocks so that's the only thing I could figure is that the rocks were actually leeching phosphates out.

Some times you can't definitively pinpoint the problem so you make an educated guess and go from there. Starting a NoPoX regime and adding a little GFO to an already running reactor was a very reasonable and proven step to the problem.
 
I recommend the HC 736. The HC 713 has many issues with its accuracy. The 736 measures in ppb which is much more accurate. In addition, i use a syringe to measure out the 10ml for the curvette for consistency.

If you have algae, you have PO4. Instead of GFO, try lanthanum chloride to drop your Po4
 
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