NewSchool04
New member
I'm not getting this residue at all? I ordered two new buckets of RC a couple of weeks ago, my last water change I used it and the water sat for two days with a heater and bubbler, no residue.
having some weird issues with Reef Crystals salt....
- Thread starter Naperville Reef
- Start date
sunfish11
Premium Member
I have always gotten the brownish-red, rust colored residue...
I use a 900 gal per hour powerhead to mix
40 gal (Food Grade) garbage can
Heater to 78 degrees
Well water that has gone througha 6 stage RO/DI
I usually let it mix for 3-5 days
I mix to specific gravity of 1.025-1.026
I do not clean the garbage can after every batch of water but when I clean it with water in the shower and use a towel to wipe it out the towel is absolutely rust colored.
I should add, my nano cube doesn't have that much water movement or surface agitation and sometimes the water surface looks the same color as the residue in my garbage can. My large aquarium never shows any sign of residue on anything.
I have no algea issues or cyno. I haven't seen any negative effects of this, but I have always used this salt and I don't know how much better another brand would make my tank. I may have to try another salt.
Also, tell Bob that I would like to see more T-shirts and towels back in the buckets
That would help me to tolerate the film :rollface:
Hope this helps!
Lisa
I use a 900 gal per hour powerhead to mix
40 gal (Food Grade) garbage can
Heater to 78 degrees
Well water that has gone througha 6 stage RO/DI
I usually let it mix for 3-5 days
I mix to specific gravity of 1.025-1.026
I do not clean the garbage can after every batch of water but when I clean it with water in the shower and use a towel to wipe it out the towel is absolutely rust colored.
I should add, my nano cube doesn't have that much water movement or surface agitation and sometimes the water surface looks the same color as the residue in my garbage can. My large aquarium never shows any sign of residue on anything.
I have no algea issues or cyno. I haven't seen any negative effects of this, but I have always used this salt and I don't know how much better another brand would make my tank. I may have to try another salt.
Also, tell Bob that I would like to see more T-shirts and towels back in the buckets
That would help me to tolerate the film :rollface: Hope this helps!
Lisa
Last edited:
paininthewrasse
In Memoriam
Yea, I havent seen any of this residue at all..
Pufferpunk
New member
For the major mixing, I have an Iwaki pump, that recirculates the salt/water inside the 33g Brute garbage can. To pump the water upstairs, I switch 2 valves & up it goes. To keep the saltwater mixed & not getting stale (& to save on electricity), I use a Maxijet.
Rod Buehler
New member
and if you mix enough without cleaning out the vat, you will notice that it is actually in the water column too.
IME its not just with the new stuff, and has nothing to do with the container/heater/mixing pumps. Whan I switched salt brands without switching anything else, the brown funk no longer appeared. When I had the issues it was with IO (not RC) and it was 2+ years ago. I never noticed any ill effects with corals or anything, but when I would pump water into the tanks via a hose, the water coming out of the hose was not as clean as the existing water in my tank.. It was like doing a water change with dirty water (or like someone dumped on in my mixing vat.) My mixing vat is a HDPE container and was using an awaki for mixing.
Pufferpunk
New member
That sounds lik a great idea. I still think someome should send him some of that red slime.
Sullyman
Premium Member
Her's what I sent him, let's see what he has to say.
Hi Bob, I relayed your reply to the group of people trying to find the problem with rust colored film after mixing RC.
Here's a link to the thread at Reef Central, you can see a pic of the film and see how many people are experiencing this issue. We would welcome more of your imput and knowledge to try and determine why some of are getting the film and a few of us aren't.
Bob O'Sullivan
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1026982&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
Hi Bob, I relayed your reply to the group of people trying to find the problem with rust colored film after mixing RC.
Here's a link to the thread at Reef Central, you can see a pic of the film and see how many people are experiencing this issue. We would welcome more of your imput and knowledge to try and determine why some of are getting the film and a few of us aren't.
Bob O'Sullivan
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1026982&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
prugs
Moving Out
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9366421#post9366421 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by miztic
I'd like to add my 2 cents worth-
I've been using TM pro, and used to get the brown film in my mixing container (a 10gal AGA aquarium) so definately no leeching anything there..
Now I mix in a covered brute container, it's all dark and I don't get the film anymore, but all the components, pumps, hoses etc. all feel slimey like its got a bacteria film on it.. I figured it was my water R/O DI with 0-3 tds depending on how new the filters are, I assumed that even if i'm reading 0 TDS there might still be something for the bacteria to live off..
Maybe i just need to clean out my container more often
It appears to be a problem with other salt mixes.
I have used rc for several years as well. Since last year I have noticed the rust slime as well. We had moved to a different house and sort of figured it was the well water. We set up the r/o right away and my tds was 5. On Rod's advise we added a di filter as well. the tds went to 0. Still the same rust. I have always battled nitrate and since the addition of my basement sump I started using 100 micron filter socks and I clean them daily. I brought down my nitrates form 25-50 using the salifert test kit to 2.5- since October.I do a 30 gallon water change using the rc bi -weekly. I keep noticing a cyano braeakout right after I do the water changes. I thought it must be something else going on, but since I have been improving my water quality, it was driving me crazy that right after a water change I was having cyano. I ran across this thread anfd thought I would add my 2 cents worth. I think I will following this a little more closely now.
Meg
Meg
Pufferpunk
New member
I have absolutely no issues in my tank, using this "rusty-colored" salt. No cyno, no algae, no nitrates.
E-A-G-L-E-S
New member
Well....i bleached my brute yesterday.....today i filled up with ro/di and started a fresh mix. Two hours into mixing there is already a trace of a brown film 
I don't know if this is an issue as my sps have incredible P.E., but i have been fighting film algae on my glass panes.
I got a fresh batch colormetered and it came out 0.00.....so don't know whether i should switch to Red Sea Pro or T.M. Pro or stay with it??
I don't know if this is an issue as my sps have incredible P.E., but i have been fighting film algae on my glass panes.
I got a fresh batch colormetered and it came out 0.00.....so don't know whether i should switch to Red Sea Pro or T.M. Pro or stay with it??
Pufferpunk
New member
No bleaching necessary--OxyClean is much safer. Did you dechlorinate the bucket?
E-A-G-L-E-S
New member
No....i air dried, rinsed again, then wiped down.....
Pufferpunk
New member
Not good... I'd dump out the salt water, refill w/tap water & dechlorinate for that amount of water overnight. Then refill w/RO & mix in your salt. Bleach leaves a residue, that's why I prefer OxyClean, for disinfecting. Turns non-toxic after it dissolves. Quick rinse & you're done.
E-A-G-L-E-S
New member
How much Oxyclean per gallon?
Thanks - Matt
Thanks - Matt
Pufferpunk
New member
Sorry this took a while to respnd. I was waiting to hear from our scientist on my pufferforum. Here is his response:
"My standard first use is one scoop per gallon actual volume. If that does not do the job, I double it (2 scoops/gal) for a second treatment. In theory you can go to 4 scoops per gallon, but I have never needed to do so.
As with most cleaning agents, the quantity of organics does matter. If you have a resistant biofilm, it will take at least 2 scoops per gallon. I had to use that on the Python from the office which had molded/fungused badly - nice black stuff - but the 2 per gal did the trick, where my one scoop did not. "
My question to him was about disinfecting an aquarium/salt mixing bucket. I think a 2tbsp scoop/gal would suffice, for cleaning our buckets. Personally, I just used hot water & rags, as I don't believe this to be any sort of a harmful bacteria or the likes--just some kind of residue left behind from the salt.
I am still using RC & will happily take any buckets of RC or IO, anyone doesn't want.
"My standard first use is one scoop per gallon actual volume. If that does not do the job, I double it (2 scoops/gal) for a second treatment. In theory you can go to 4 scoops per gallon, but I have never needed to do so.
As with most cleaning agents, the quantity of organics does matter. If you have a resistant biofilm, it will take at least 2 scoops per gallon. I had to use that on the Python from the office which had molded/fungused badly - nice black stuff - but the 2 per gal did the trick, where my one scoop did not. "
My question to him was about disinfecting an aquarium/salt mixing bucket. I think a 2tbsp scoop/gal would suffice, for cleaning our buckets. Personally, I just used hot water & rags, as I don't believe this to be any sort of a harmful bacteria or the likes--just some kind of residue left behind from the salt.
I am still using RC & will happily take any buckets of RC or IO, anyone doesn't want.
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