Heat Pack Study

BeakerBob

New member
How efficient are heat packs when used to ship insulated boxes to maintain a warm temperature during the cold winter months in Michigan? Which heat packs should be used? What is the temperature of the water when received?

These are questions that have been on my mind when I ship coral frags during the winter months, so I designed a study to see how heat packs impact the shipped water temperature and the effectiveness of the insulated box. To design the study, many variables had to be controlled to make the proper comparisons meaningful, i.e. apples to apples. I used the same size and density Styrofoam containers, a uniform volume of water at a specific temperature and stored them in a controlled cold room at 4C ± 1C (40F ± 1F) degree. NIST calibrated temperature data loggers were sealed in plastic bags to keep them dry, then placed into the sealed water bag and recorded the water temperatures every 5 minutes for 48 hours.

Thank You
A special acknowledgement goes to (www.diyreef.com / (www.cherrycorals.com) and Reefone (from MichiganReefers.com) for donating some different heat packs for testing and also for Jimsflies (from MichiganReefers.com) for helping me upload some of the data.

The Heat Pack Study follows below and in subsequent posts, however, I was having difficulty with the pdf files, so I have to convert the Excel charts to jpg format:

TEST CONTROLS:
First, every test must have some controls designed into the study for confidence in the results. Precision, accuracy, and blank samples are often used. For the purpose of precision, I started the study testing heat packs in triplicate to see if they were uniform in heating the water. After several tests on the Little Hotties, I concluded that testing in triplicate was no longer necessary as they were reproducible (precision). Accuracy is a little more difficult to show in this type of study, so the NIST calibration will have to suffice. In order to compare the results in a meaningful fashion, I prepared two blank controls, “blank” meaning no heat packs. The first blank control was 27C bagged water with no Styrofoam box. The second blank was 27C bagged water packaged the same as the other tested boxes, but without any heat packs. These two blanks serve as control comparisons.

PACKAGING:
All packaging was uniform for every test (except the blank as described). A liter of 27C water was sealed with an activated temperature data logger in the bag, and then placed in the bottom of the Styrofoam cooler. A 2-ply newspaper was folded 4x and placed on the water bag as a barrier between the water and the heat packs. The heat pack(s) were taped to the inside of the lid and activated prior to use. Once assembled, a strip of tape was placed over the lid and sides of the box to make it secure, then placed in a temperature controlled environment. Shortly after 48 hours, the package was disassembled and the data logger downloaded to provide the readings and charts.
 
HEAT PACKS USED:

HEAT PACKS USED:

Little Hotties 18 hour Hand & Body Warmer Heat Pack
MR-P1010017.jpg

MR-P1010019a.jpg


DIYREEF.com, 20 hour Heat Pack
MR-P1010011.jpg


Ultra Warmer, 24+ hour Heat Pack
MR-P1010014.jpg

MR-P1010016a.jpg


UniHeat, 30+ hour Heat Pack
MR-P1010013.jpg

MR-P1010015a.jpg
 
STORAGE TEMPERATURE:
• Ambient temperature maintained at 4C ± 1C (40F ± 1F)

STYROFOAM CONTAINER:
• Thermalok TL-645F with lid
o Outside Dimension: 9-1/2 x 7-7/8 x 8-1/16,
o Inside Dimension: 6-1/4 x 4-5/8 x 5,
o Volume: 144.53 cubic inches, 2.4 liters, 0.634 gallons, or 81.15 ounces
o Wall thickness: 1.5”

WATER CONDITIONS:
• Volume: 1 liter, 0.26 gallons, or 33.8 ounces
• Temperature 27C (80.6F)
• Double bagged, no air bubble

TEMPERATURE DATA LOGGER:
• Recording interval: Set to record temperature at 5 minute intervals
• Duration: 48 hours
• Placement: Heat-sealed in plastic bag, double bagged and secured inside 1 liter water bag.

HEAT PACKS:
1. Little Hotties 18 hour Hand & Body Warmer, states 37C (135F) average temperature
2. DIYREEF.com, 20 hour Heat Pack, no other information available.
3. Grabber Mycoal 24+ hour Ultra Warmer, states 51C (124F) average temperature, 65C (149F) maximum temperature.
4. American Pioneer International, 30+ hour UniHeat, states 38C (100F) average temperature, 49C (120F) temperature

• Heat packs activated and warm prior to insertion into water bag
• Heat packs taped to lid along edges to maintain clear air holes

ASSUMPTIONS:

1) There is an adequate oxygen supply for the heat packs in the container.
2) Shipped packages are stored at an average of 40F during the cold winter months.
3) All packaging is prepared in a similar manner.

REAL LIFE VARIABLES:

1. The actual storage temperature (ambient temperature) is dependent on shipping environment.
2. Packaging varies in box size, density, and thickness which impacts heating efficiency.
3. Water volume is extremely variable and has significant impact on temperature.
 
Water volume and temperature:
MR-P1010030.jpg


Temperature Data Logger heat-sealed in plastic bag:
MR-P1010021.jpg


Water and Data Logger Sealed in plastic bag:
MR-P1010040a.jpg


Heat Packs taped to lid and activated:
MR-P1010022.jpg


Packaging Components ready for assembly:
MR-P1010042A.jpg


Water bag with data logger in first:
MR-P1010043.jpg


Newspaper barrier in next:
MR-P1010044a.jpg


Lid with activated heat packs placed on box and secured with tape:
MR-P1010045a.jpg
 
Charted Results

Charted Results

Chart of Little Hottie 18 hour testing in triplicate:

1BodyWarmer.jpg


Chart of DYREEF.com 20 hour heat packs, single and double:

1DIY20Hour.jpg


Chart of Ultra Warmer, 24+ hour Heat Pack, single and double:

UltraWarmer.jpg


Chart of UniHeat, 30+ hour Heat Pack, single and double:

1UniHeat.jpg


Chart showing the results of all the testing:

1AllChart.jpg
 
Last edited:
Study Observations:

Study Observations:

Temperature increase: The DIYREEF 20 hour and the UltraWarmer 24+ hour single and double heat packs actually raised the water temperature for a period of 3 to 5 hours to highs between 87F and 89F before decreasing.

At the 18 hour mark, typical of shipping out at 5PM one day and receiving at 11AM the next day, the water temperatures ranged from 61F to 65F.

At the 24 hour mark, the temperature ranged from 56F to 60F.

At the end of the 48 hour study cycle, the Ultra Heat and UniHeat packs were still warm when I opened the packages. The other packs were cold after the 48 hour period.
 
Good study to do. I'm not exactly sure what it means practically in terms of the best brand or the best way to package, but certainly a good starting point for research on the subject. Thanks for posting this information.
 
I wonder if the heat output from a simple C or D cell battery if wired in series with an aluminum plate (maybe a resistor as well for longevity) wouldnt provide a longer lasting, more constant heat source. Would be easy to use/make.

I have alway worried that the method of 'just adding more heat packs' wouldnt end up overheating... and I suppose it does. Thanks for taking the time to do such a good comparison.

From the chemistry/thermodynamics standpoint, the energy packs are just chemical batteries. The problem is that when they are activated, they discharge all at once... so they can heat up too much to start, and then wear out faster.

Well, some sort of resistance should be added to slow the reaction. I dont know of any way to do this in the chemistry of the heat pack, but a battery IS a heat pack after all. But with the battery, you can use a resistor/element combo to control the discharge rate and concentration of heat.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11930444#post11930444 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by garygb
Good study to do. I'm not exactly sure what it means practically in terms of the best brand or the best way to package, but certainly a good starting point for research on the subject. Thanks for posting this information.
Actually, I didn't do the study to determine which heat pack was better, I did it to see if the water was staying warm enough during the shipping process. I know that when I receive packages, the water is cold.

I am thinking that the next round of study may be shipping the data loggers in with my corals and have the recipient return the logger for reading. This would give the best information.

Everyone can also help by taking the temperature of the water when you receive a package and noting the length of time in shipment, number of heat packs and if the packs are still warm. Post the information on this thread so that we can compare the observations.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11932179#post11932179 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeakerBob
I did it to see if the water was staying warm enough during the shipping process. I know that when I receive packages, the water is cold.


In any of those shipments that you received, was the package that contained the heat packs completely sealed?

I received 3 shipments over the winter. 2 came to me cold. In the 45 to 50 degree range.
The last shipment came about 68 degrees. The heat pack in this shipment was still warm, a little but still warm.
I think that the reason it was still warm was because I mentioned to the shipper that air needs to get inside the package to keep the heat pack working, and they did a good job.

The first 2 shipments I received were sealed up tight. The corals were cold and did not survive. But as soon as I opened the packages, the heat packs reactavated and got warm.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11932706#post11932706 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mfinn
In any of those shipments that you received, was the package that contained the heat packs completely sealed?
Well, I guess I should clarify what I meant by cold......they were in their mid-60's if I had to take a guess, definately not the 40's! I didn't take the water temperature, but I will from now on just to see what it is. This was one of the reasons I didn't seal the lid in with tape around the lid edges......I wanted to make sure that there was enough air available to keep the heat packs activated.
 
Beaker Bob,

I had two questions: Do you know what the reactants are in heat pack chemistry? I'm guessing heat+ CO2. That brings to mind a concern. I was told years ago by somebody who worked for Kordon that fish bags are at least partially permeable to CO2. I wonder if loading up heat packs inside a sealed box might drive the CO2 in the shipping water to dangerous levels?
Secondly, I always had the habit of giving the styro a shot of oxygen right before I sealed it up. The idea being that there would then be more O2 available for use by the heat packs. Given the high temps reached by at least one brand you tested, now I wonder if doing that might create a temperature spike inside the box, and then burn the heat pack out too fast. Thoughts?

I have some Hobo dataloggers, I wonder if they are accurate enough to run some field tests? They are waterproof anyway. I've had some problems this winter with frozen corals, so this is a really pertinant issue for me.

Jay Hemdal
 
Jay I thought it was O2 that was what activated heat packs? In wholesale we'd always jump start them by tossing them in a bag and blew some o2 in for a minute.

FWIW the co2 permability is very low.

Your Hobo's should be just fine for this, I've used them for a similiar test but on the opposite side of things (keeping stuff cold).
 
Gresham,

Sorry - I meant to say, "products" of the reaction, not "reactants"....so do they throw off CO2?

What about that old cautionary tale about not shipping fish alongside shipments with dry ice in them? Something about the sublimated CO2 diffusing into the fish boxes and killing the fish. Probably not true I guess, but we used to worry about it....

We received a shipment of corals last week that are just dropping off on us - the heat packs came undone from the lid and fell to the bottom of the boxes and got WET - shuts them right down!

Jay
 
The oxidative exothermic reaction of the hand warmer is simply rusting iron. If you look at the ingredients on the back of the packages you will see: iron, water, activated carbon, salt, and vermiculite listed.

Basically, once the heat pack is exposed to air, the iron is oxidized producing heat, rust, and water. The wood powder, carbon, and salt speed up the reaction and the vermiculite absorbs the water produced. This is why the packs get hard and weigh a little bit more.

Some of the equations are as follows:

Fe ---> Fe(+2) + 2(e-)
2H3O(+) + 2(e-) ----> 2H + H2O
Dissolved oxygen reacts with the H atoms to form H2 gas:
2H + 1/2 O2 (aq) ----> H2O

The oxygen and water also react with the Fe(+2) ions to produce hydrated iron(III) oxide [Fe2O3(H2O)x], rust:

4 Fe(+2) + O2 + (12+x) H2O------>2Fe2O3(H2O)x + 8H3O(+)


As for the permeability of CO2 through the plastic bags, it depends on the type of plastic and thickness of the bag. Dry ice is pure CO2....I would not recommend using dry ice in the summer as it is too cold, may freeze the water, and will sublimate CO2 gas directly into the shipping container.
 
BeakerBob,

Thanks for the primer on how heat packs work...

No, the CO2 we used to worry about when I worked in the wholesale trade back in the '70s was in shipments adjacent to our fish shipments...something frozen with dry ice being shipped in the same cargo hold as our fish. In retrospect, that is probably an old wives tale (or is that old fish mongers tale?). However, the FedEx airbills asks if the shipment contains dry ice...


Jay
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11940194#post11940194 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JHemdal
However, the FedEx airbills asks if the shipment contains dry ice...

That's because dry ice is hazardous to handle if not done right. They want to know so that the people handling the package are aware should something happen to the package causing the dry ice to be exposed ;)

BTW, beware of putting too many heat packs in a container. To many will use up the O2 and cause them to cool down early. In a small box you are better off with one heat pack, not two.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11932179#post11932179 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeakerBob

I am thinking that the next round of study may be shipping the data loggers in with my corals and have the recipient return the logger for reading. This would give the best information.



Excellent thread and outstanding work; guys like you are what make RC great!


Recently I ran across an individual who ships using store bought hard sided coolers instead of styrofoam boxes because he felt they were significantly superior in maintaining a constant temperature during shipping. I would love to take part in this study by "renting" a couple data loggers, and shipping you two sets of free frags just to see if there is merit to this practice. Drop me a PM if you have any interest.

Either way thanks for the great work,

joe
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11964753#post11964753 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JPMagyar
Excellent thread and outstanding work; guys like you are what make RC great!


Recently I ran across an individual who ships using store bought hard sided coolers instead of styrofoam boxes because he felt they were significantly superior in maintaining a constant temperature during shipping. ......Either way thanks for the great work,

joe
Joe, believe it or not, a previous study we did with keeping items cooled to 4C showed that hard sided coolers were not as efficient as the dense solid styrofoam coolers. The reason for this was that most hard sided coolers do NOT have any insulation in the hollow spaces of the walls, bottom and top, only empty air which provides some insulation, but not as good as solid styrofoam. I'll send ypu a PM to discuss testing further.
 
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