Heater and Controller

[Chriss614]

I am on a bit of a budget and I need a good and reliable heater and controller. I like the ehiem jager heaters but am open to other suggestions. Before anyone even says it I am way to broke for one of those fancy appex controllers haha. My tank is a 75 gallon mixed reef so I believe I need a 250 or 300 watt heater? Thankyou in advance.

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[n2585722]

Can you swing the price of a entry level RKL http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/reefkeeper-lite-basic-digital-aquatics.html. It will have 4 controlled outputs and comes with a iTemp probe. This will control your heaters and some other devices along with them. It csn be expanded up to 4 modules later if needed.

 

[Chriss614]

Can you swing the price of a entry level RKL http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/reefkeeper-lite-basic-digital-aquatics.html. It will have 4 controlled outputs and comes with a iTemp probe. This will control your heaters and some other devices along with them. It csn be expanded up to 4 modules later if needed.

Kind of expensive. What other things will it controll. I may add a sump later will it help with any of that equipment?

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[mcgyvr]

Eheim Jager or Aqueon Pro heaters..
Then get an "inkbird" controller from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Elec...00&sr=1-3&keywords=inkbird+cooling+controller

 

[ericarenee]

Eheim Jager or Aqueon Pro heaters..
Then get an "inkbird" controller from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Elec...00&sr=1-3&keywords=inkbird+cooling+controller

I have had two of these on my tanks for over 3-4 years now and they are awesome ...

Not the easiest to program... OHH Mine is the HEAT AND COOL MODEL... I Have fans on the cooling port and heaters on the heating port

 

[n2585722]

It can turn on and off almost anything that has an AC plug. It has 4 AC outlets. It has 16 internal timers you can turn on and off lighting or pumps. The power bar has a 15amp total rating. 2 outputs can handle up to 8amps and 2 can handle up to 3amps. I would use 2 heaters instead of one. Get heaters with internal thermostats. Set the heater thermostat 2 degrees above your setting on the controller.

If for some reason you need more outputs you can add another PB4 module to the controller and gain 4 more outputs.

Later you can add a SLX or SL2 module and have 2 pH or a ORP and temp input and 2 switch inputs for SLX. For the SL2 you can have a pH input, salinity input and 2 switch inputs. You can use the switch inputs to control things like a skimmer or return pump. Turn off skimmer if collection cup is full or turn off return if sump level is too low.

 

[njcastillo86]

+1 on the "inkbird" If you're a DIY guy you can also make your own. There's also a really good YouTube video on how to wire it. I currently have two of these and one on a friends tank. Been going strong 3 years.

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-All-...058308&sr=1-2&keywords=temperature+controller

 

[Chriss614]

+1 on the "inkbird" If you're a DIY guy you can also make your own. There's also a really good YouTube video on how to wire it. I currently have two of these and one on a friends tank. Been going strong 3 years.

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-All-...058308&sr=1-2&keywords=temperature+controller

How hard would you say the DIY option is? Would it work with a eheim jager? And a link to the video would be great. Thanks for the help!

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[ericarenee]

How hard would you say the DIY option is? Would it work with a eheim jager? And a link to the video would be great. Thanks for the help!

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You have to buy a TEMP PROBE, A power supply (from 120v to what the controller needs) A Piece of Electrical cord and a 120v outlet for the heater ..

Connect it all up.

If you have to ask this question i suggest buy one assembled.. It will only be a few bucks more.

 

[Chriss614]

You have to buy a TEMP PROBE, A power supply (from 120v to what the controller needs) A Piece of Electrical cord and a 120v outlet for the heater ..

Connect it all up.

If you have to ask this question i suggest buy one assembled.. It will only be a few bucks more.

Thats probably a good point. I am pretty handy but after buying all that I will almost be at the $30 of the assembeled one and I wouldnt get any warranty.

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[Chriss614]

Eheim Jager or Aqueon Pro heaters..
Then get an "inkbird" controller from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Elec...00&sr=1-3&keywords=inkbird+cooling+controller

Probably going with your recommendation. Just wondering if the inkbird-306 temperature probe is calibratable? Some reviews said it is but I didnt see it in the description.

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[njcastillo86]

You have to buy a TEMP PROBE, A power supply (from 120v to what the controller needs) A Piece of Electrical cord and a 120v outlet for the heater ..

Connect it all up.

If you have to ask this question i suggest buy one assembled.. It will only be a few bucks more.

This is correct except it DOES come with the temp probe. The assembly is actually very simple epically if you will only be using it for heat and not cool. Most of the supplies needed for it you probably even have around in the garage. I will attach the video incase you want to give it a try for another project or down the road. I don't believe that pre assembled one was available when I made mine, if it was it def wasn't for that cheap.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7I-iwFLykxs

 

[mcgyvr]

Probably going with your recommendation. Just wondering if the inkbird-306 temperature probe is calibratable? Some reviews said it is but I didnt see it in the description.

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Its probably calibrated but you ALWAYS want a second thermometer,etc.. for verification..
I always have one of those floating thermometers in all tanks that I rely on as the true temp and adjust anything else based on that..

and yes.. the inkbird is just too low cost to DIY one now.. In the end the costs are almost identical and inkbird is just done..

 

[scooter31707]

I like the Finnex Titanium w/ the controller. Mines is going on 2 years now and never had a problem with it (knock on wood).

 

[Chriss614]

Its probably calibrated but you ALWAYS want a second thermometer,etc.. for verification..
I always have one of those floating thermometers in all tanks that I rely on as the true temp and adjust anything else based on that..

and yes.. the inkbird is just too low cost to DIY one now.. In the end the costs are almost identical and inkbird is just done..

I have a digital thermometer on both my tanks and also a floating one in my freshwater that i can use to verify. I think the $30 is a pretty good value so Ill probably go with that.

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[Orm Embar]

I was debating between using an Inkbird or a Ranco with an Eheim heater . . . I ended up splurging for the Ranco.

For a low cost option, the InkBird looks like a good choice to me.

For either one, my understanding is that you should still put some heat shrink tubing on the probes for either the InkBird or the Ranco (I ordered my Ranco from ETCSupply, who says that they will do this for free if you order the Ranco). Based on what I've seen on the web, neither has a truly saltwater-safe probe although some people use it that way (and at least one page states that the InkBird is saltwater safe, whereas their own website contradicts that).

 

[Jayreefer]

My probes on my inkbirds still look great after 6 months. Have them on my QT and nano.

 

[jason2459]

I'm a big fan of the Ranco controllers. Have used them for many years and they will last many years.

Only I do wish they had higher resolution then 1 degree. When I ran them with Jager heaters I would set the temp on the Ranco higher as the safety and the jagers kept the temp even.

I change my heaters out every couple years as all heaters will fail at some point.

Good read on heaters and why you want a backup controller
http://www.beananimal.com/articles/aquarium-heaters-what-you-need-to-know!.aspx

This last change out of heaters I decided to try a couple titanium tubes. So, the ranco was now controlling them and my apex was the backup. Well of course the temp kept going up and down 1 degree constantly. I didn't like that so I switched it so that the Apex would turn on and off the ranco with in .1 degree.

This kept the temp even again but at the expensive of wearing out the relays in the Apex power bar and the Rancos. I didn't like that. Someone on here pointed that out.

So, I just got in a couple controllers from Amazon to try out and really liked their design and they have some pretty robust relays in them. They do have an audible clicking as it switches on and off.

So, now

2x20 amp CAFCI/GFCI circuits

2x15 amp EB8 power bars with each plugged into a different circuit. The outlet on the EB8 israted to 5amps. 85 degree turn off via probe inputs with one in my display and 2 in sump.

2x 16 amp Rancos with each plugged into a different EB8. Set point 83 degree shutoff

2x 15 amp rated with 30amp relays Bayite with each plugged into a different Ranco. Set Point is now at 79 degrees with .1 degree differential.

2x 800watt Finnex titanium heaters with each plugged into a different Bayite controller.

Posted this in my tank journal thread.

Trying out a couple new temp controllers. .1 degree control and dual stage. Seems and feels like good quality and I like the design.

I'm pretty impressed with the quality of that Bayite temp controller. The relays in it are robust and commercial quality. Just under $60 off Amazon and it can do a lot.

It was really pretty simple to setup and found it can do a lot. More then I will need it for. It can do a differential from the set value from .1 degree on up. It also handles alarms high and low temp and delay on for compressors.

The temp reading seems spot on with the Ranco which only has a resolution of 1 degree. The bayite was reading 79.1, Ranco (both of them) 79, and Apex 79.3.

For dual stage it will work towards what ever the set point is and deviation. Automatically swiching between heating and cooling.

If you don't have an aquarium controller or you want a redundant heater controller this is another option out there like the inkbirds.

Bottom reading is the set value and top is the actual value. And led to show if its cooling or heating.

The manual goes over a few scenarios and the quick start is a heating only setup.