heater element and AquaController JR DC-8?

glalderman

New member
I posted this on the Neptune Systems forum also...but thought I would ask locally too! and before someone says somthing...yes a 1000w heater in a 120 is a little overkill! but I live in an older house that doesn't have today's insulation standards...and I don't normally heat it above 62 at the most during the winter...so I thought a little overkill might be needed during the winter!

Anyway...I figure total watts are going to be up around 2000 if everything is on at one time...which probably won't be the case as the lights should be more than enough to maintain temp when they are on...mathwise...my calcs say that 15 amps total draw is around 1800 watts on a 120vac system...

so what do you all that have an AquaController think based on info below from my Neptune Systems post?


I just picked up my ACJR with DC-8, Auqa Surf and Lunar Modules...my question is about my heater...

I have a Aqua Medic BioTherm 1000w heater with controller...I can ditch the controller and plug the heater element directly into the DC-8 correct?

Also...will the DC-8 handle everything along with the heater? or should I pick up an expansion module to plug the heater into so it is on its own power circuit? As of now the following will be plugged into the DC-8...

Outlet 1: IceCap 250w MH Ballast
Outlet 2: IceCap 250w MH Ballast
Outlet 3: Coralife 2 lamp VHO Ballast or IceCap 430 VHO Ballast
Outlet 4: Tunze 6100 PH
Outlet 5: Tunze 6100 PH
Outlet 6: 120mm Canopy Fan
Outlet 7: 120mm Canopy Fan
Outlet 8: 1000w Heater???

The other thought was to purchase a DC-4HD (or a second DC-8)and put all lights including the Sump/Fuge light on it and use the DC-8 for all the other stuff...

Any comments would be appreciated!

Greg

(now just to figure out this programming stuff!)
 
Honestly I wouldn't plug that heater into my AC. I'm on my 3rd temp probe in 18months. Plenty of posts on their thread about temp issues as well. They seem to be very touchy. Curt continues to say that it must be 'probe abuse' since they don't have any QC issues but I would have more confidence in your Aquamedic than in the AC. I run mine through a RANCO and the AC now.
 
I wouldn't care what brand or reputation the controller has I wouldn't trust it to stand alone esp with that high of wattage/gallons.

For safety I run 2 smaller heaters. I set the temps on the heater slightly higher than the controller. If the controller would ever stick on the heaters control should kick it off at its set temp.

I also run mine at 2 diff temps on the controller so in reality 1 only ever works. I set heater 1 on at like 79.2 and heater 2 on at 79 Heater 2 only runs if either heater 1 failed, or if ambient temps got really cold. I think this would save you a lot of electricity over the 1000w heater cycling on and off all the time? I wouldn't think you would need anywhere near that much total wattage?

I run all my lights off a relay switched power block Kevin made for me. So the only real pull I have going through the controller is the heaters, return pump, and some in tank flow.
 
Hmmm...guess I need to read those posts...the whole idea of this controller was to control everything in one nice small package! :D Sort of sucks to think that there temp probe might have problems...

Not plugging the heater into the ACJR would free up an outlet so I could plug in my Sump/Fuge light in to be controlled by the ACJR vice a separate timer...

Scott...didn't think about controller giving out...might need to see what the Aqua Medic controller defaults to on when plugged in...I believe it is 78...if so...then plugging the element into the Aqua Medic controller and then plugging it into the ACJR would give a redundent probes...so if either one crapped out and stuck on...the other should secure the element...

but on the watts thing...watts is watts...if it takes a 1000w heater 1 hr to bring temp up to specs it would take a 100w heater 10hrs (in a perfect world) so the difference in electrical usage is minimal between a smaller heater and a larger one...
 
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I run everything from my ac3 you might have a problem when the light 1st come on with the heater running I would get expansion module for the heater it's not worth the risk of having everything off all day
 
but the thing is its going to keep a more stable temp with the 100W over the 1000W, staggering the heaters gives you more precise temperature control over a single large heater, once it gets up to temp its going to be able to keep the temp at that temperature without having to use 1000W its only going to have to use 100W
 
Matt...yes and no...depends a lot on the type of controller...a military grade proportional controller will hold a very close tolerance in a 30g hotwater heater using two 3500w elements...I know the aquacontroller nor the Aqua Medic controller are not on the same par! :D

Let's not get any further into Thermal Dynamics...it is making me twing at memories of Navy Nuc School 25 years ago... :D LOL!
 
with saltwater quick changes are bad, slow ones are more forgiving

1000 watt heater has the potential to heat the tank to quick IMO
 
1000 watt heater has the potential to heat the tank to quick IMO

Or it should never be able to get away from set temp! :D

BUT...

Dang you guys can make me spend money!

I just ordered a DC-4 from Salty Critter...

I am going to return my "not used" 1000w element for two 250w AquaMedic elements and a second Controller...

That's what I like about you guys...don't have to worry about you all beating around the bush...you all just come out and tell me I "F'ed Up"! :D My type of people! HA! :rollface:

Thanks for the info...this is the type of info I was looking for!
 
A rule of thumb with saltwater, if it can go wrong it will...just try to cut out as many "it wills" as possible :)
 
so you are saying that not only does Murphy show up...but he brings his 5 sisters also? :D

I've sailed the seven seas...me blood is saltwater! oh...and beer...I mean...I was a sailor...:beer:
 
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