Heaters - how do I do this right?

[jeasley]

Okay, so I just upgraded my sump to a 125 and now I want to really do my heaters right. I have never done much with them since the temp really didn;t move around that much. More water is now prompting me to do more.

I have about 250 gallons are actual water (ignoring size of tank)

Now I understand I should have 3-5 watts per gallon but should I be using a controller? or just reliable heaters?

What brand has the best bang for the buck?

If I get a controller which should I consider? Would it just make sense to get a aqua controller jr? HELP!

 

[Fat Surgeon]

Jon,
IMO, forget about the 3-5 watts per gallon scenario. I have a 125 with 15 Gallon refugium and have 210 watts between 2 heaters. The reason I have 2 is that one is used for backup. I have one heater that is 125 watt and a 90 watt Hydor pump/heater combo. I believe the Hydor would probably do the job just fine on it's own. Good luck

 

[VSpeck]

i run a 300 watt on a 200gal tank and a 150 watt on a 90 gal on controlers and it does fine both of mine are in direct flow of water in the sump and i think that helps move the heat.

 

[jeasley]

thanks for the input! I am trying to find the middle ground between my nighttime temps and my highs during the day and see what I can do to cool it down during the day and what I can do to kep the heat up during the night so that there is not a lot of change in temps.

 

[olin]

I agree- 2 watts seems plenty for my tanks also. I've always used ebo-jagers without any problems, but I know there are lots of cool spiffy ones that are just as good or better. I do definitely use 2 lower powered units instead of one high power one with the reasoning that if the unit sticks on, it will take longer to heat up the water since the other would hopefully switch off. The animals can stand low temps for a long time, but fry quickly if it gets too high. I used to have large daily temperature swings at my last place but I put a little styrofoam insulation on 3 sides and it kept things stable and cut way down on my electricity usage as well.

 

[phlipper84]

Trying to figure out something with the use of heaters. My tank generates significant heat on it's own, regardless of weather. Spend more time trying to cool the tank than raising the temp. Does this make any sense?

 

[Sk8r]

Your rock will help conserve the prior state of the tank, whether cool or warm. Start dialing down your heater until you reach an equilibrium with the daytime temps. Remove all lids.
Eg, my tank is a 52, and I have the heater set at 72 (it lies, but it's about 75) My mh runs the daytime temp up to 80.8, and now that it's found an equilibrium, the temp sinks as far as 79.2, before it starts to climb as the lights go on. It doesn't vary from that cycle, now, but I nearly pulled my hair out getting it to stabilize at first.

 

[jeasley]

Cool thanks for the feedback folks. i plan to get 2 or 3 smaller ones and put a fan on the sump for when the halides are on. I hope to narrow the temp range this way. From what i have understood, the temp is less important than the swings. so i hope to find a middle ground between the 78-79 at night and the 83 at the end of the halide phase.

 

[cerreta]

Jon, have you considered a dual phase chiller that can chill and heat. Costs more, but if your temps are getting up to 83 than this summer may be a problem.

 

[jeasley]

well I have put a 7" clip on fan on the sump and that brought the top temp down like 1-1/2 degrees. I have also removed the mag36 since it was causing me all sorts of problems Bad news since I found out that mag wants you to have twice the hose size of the outlet. more so as the pumps get stronger. So i put my mag 12 back on. I will see what the temps look like then.