heating water for water change

I just keep a powerhead and a 200w heater going in my storage water in my brute trash can. Water is ready all the time no waiting :D
 
I actually have my RODI unit tapped into the hotwater supply line. By the time it travels the distance to reach the sump, it's a very reasonable 80 -82 degrees.

Im pretty sure you are not supposed to do that! Every RO/DI manual I have seen usually has that in BOLD LETTERS
 
Im pretty sure you are not supposed to do that! Every RO/DI manual I have seen usually has that in BOLD LETTERS


Yes, but temp going in to the RODI is only 85-86 degrees. I made sure of that when I mistakenly tapped the wrong water supply line...

So yes, it's on the hot line, but no, it's not hot enough to effect the RODI.
 
Yes, but temp going in to the RODI is only 85-86 degrees. I made sure of that when I mistakenly tapped the wrong water supply line...

So yes, it's on the hot line, but no, it's not hot enough to effect the RODI.

Actually it does impact your RO/DI. Not only does anything above 70 degrees increase the amount of waste water you produce per gallon of clean water, it also reduces the life of your membrane.

You don't SEE an impact...YET. Yes, you will get 0 tds water, but you would have a far more cost effective system if you had it on the cold water line.
 
i agree temp on inlet of RO/DI should be cold water line not hot. it effects membrane and exhausts ur DI quickly.
 
i agree temp on inlet of RO/DI should be cold water line not hot. it effects membrane and exhausts ur DI quickly.

OK, here is a direct quote from RC's front page on RODI FAQ's:

"
Do I care about temperature?

The GPD ratings are for room temperature (~70Ã"šÃ‚° F). Colder water travels more slowly through the membrane, which reduces the output. If you have a high-GPD unit connected to your cold water line, that can be a problem. Here's a solution (from Marc Levenson):

Quote:
You want approximately 25' or 30' feet of tubing from the connection at the cold water running to the RO/DI unit.

Fill a 5-gallon bucket with water, and coil the excess tubing in the bucket so it is submerged. Immerse a small aquarium heater and set it to 78Ã"šÃ‚° F. As the RO/DI unit kicks on, water in the tubing will be warmed up to 78Ã"šÃ‚° as well, since it processes rather slowly, and the membrane will be able to produce maximum output in the dead of winter."

According to this, warmer water is better. (Not HOT, but warm) My unit is rated at 100 gpd.
 
78 is not hot. 78 is barely above room temperature. That method is to raise the water in the tubing to room temperature prior to running through the filters (rather than very cold 50 degree water).

It says optimal is 70F. Most homes hot water heaters are set at 140F.
 
I have been doing 5 gallon water changes on my 30 gallon every two weeks. My MJ1200 pump heats the water up to 75 degrees itself.
 
78 is not hot. 78 is barely above room temperature. That method is to raise the water in the tubing to room temperature prior to running through the filters (rather than very cold 50 degree water).

It says optimal is 70F. Most homes hot water heaters are set at 140F.

Agreed.
FWIW, my hot water heater is set at 120*. (My cold water runs 50 - 55*, depending on time of year).

Again input into the RODI runs about 85*, by the time it reaches my sump it's running about 82*. My display tank runs 79 - 80*.

It's just my OPINION that the warmer water (85*), going into the RODI is not having a detrimental effect on the unit like others are saying....
 
You don't use the hot water side because your water heater is full of heavy metals that plug up the membrane. Go take a drink of hot water and see how it tastes.
 
i have always used BulkReefSupply for my RO/DI unit supplier.
thier instructions on their website states COLD WATER
they are semi manufacturer/distributors of RO/DI machines that bare their name on them.

3) Locate the Red intake line and the bag of fittings. The bag of fittings contains three ways to attach the RO unit your homes water line, a kitchen sink adaptor, a hose/laundry tub adaptor and a self piercing valve for connecting the unit directly into your homes cold water line. (Only use the self piercing valve if you are familiar with how they work and comfortable with installing it). After you have chosen a fitting attach it to your Red line.

here is the link for full study.
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/Reverse-Osmosis-and-Deionization-Directions
 
Spectrapure which is another huge name in Reef world for their RO/DI unit claims:

SpectraPure
SpectraPure®Inc. 480.894.5437 Call us toll-free 1.800.685.2783
2167 East Fifth St, Tempe, Arizona 85281
®
4
Sediment Pre-Filter 1.0 micron MicroTec™ sediment pre-filter
Carbon Filter 1.0 micron carbon block pre-filter
RO Membrane Type SpectraSelect Standard Thin-Film Composite (TFC)
DI Cartridge Non-Color Indicating SilicaBuster™ Mixed-Bed
Rejection Rate 98% average
Input Water Pressure 60 psi (4.15 bar) line pressure*
Input Water Temp 77°F (25°C)
Recovery Rate 20% (i.e. 20% of the water will be collected as pure water)
Nominal Membrane Flow Rates @ 60 psi & 77° F :
GPD (lpd) Product Water Flow Rate Concentrate Flow Rate
90 (340) 235ml/min 940 ml/min

heres the link
http://www.spectrapure.com/manuals/PRINTER_FRIENDLY/PROPLUS.pdf
 
Spectrapure which is another huge name in Reef world for their RO/DI unit claims:

SpectraPure
SpectraPure®Inc. 480.894.5437 Call us toll-free 1.800.685.2783
2167 East Fifth St, Tempe, Arizona 85281

Input Water Temp 77°F (25°C)


Now tell me, who has a cold water temp of 77* ???? Not many, without heating it....


.
 
This got way off topic.

My point was, hooking it to the hot water line is not good advice to give to someone new to the hobby. If they run the RO/DI to fill buckets like I do, they would be pumping water twice the recommended temp into the membrane.

The 77F is for OPTIMAL flow, which is why that write up on melevs site described running the input tubing through a bucket of warm water prior to the ro system to warm it up.

Cold water won't damage the membrane, hot water will. The worst thing that happens with cold water is it runs a little slower through the system and your buckets don't fill as fast.
 
This got way off topic.

My point was, hooking it to the hot water line is not good advice to give to someone new to the hobby. If they run the RO/DI to fill buckets like I do, they would be pumping water twice the recommended temp into the membrane.

The 77F is for OPTIMAL flow, which is why that write up on melevs site described running the input tubing through a bucket of warm water prior to the ro system to warm it up.

Cold water won't damage the membrane, hot water will. The worst thing that happens with cold water is it runs a little slower through the system and your buckets don't fill as fast.


I agree SSLAK.

But, to my defense, I NEVER, recommended that they hook to the hot water line. If you re-read my original post, I simply stated that was how mine was done.

If I had posted that and said my output temp was 120+ degrees, then everybody should have been jumping on me about this. That's not the case, my water is about 8* above the optimum temp, that's it...

Many times in this hobby, you will find there is not a one size fits all solution to a problem. I value everybody's opinion and try to make informed decisions on the matter. Just because somebody does something a different way and still gets the same results, doesn't necessarily mean that's the wrong way to do it.

OK, I'm done :deadhorse:

:)
 
infact guys there are few NON Branded RO/DI units i saw that says input water range 70-120F so thats a very open broad range.
 
I make my water Sat in the AM, throw a heater & pump in it with salt and in the PM it is usually close enough. Yea throwing 70* water into a 78* tank wont do much, but throwing 50* water in sure will.
 
RubberFrog said:
;19819580]enjoy your hot water heavy metals


Here we go again.....no need to act like an a*hole...:uzi:

Kinda hard for those HEAVY Metals, as you call them, to accrue in the hot water heater... WHEN IT'S TANKLESS!

You do your thing, I will do mine.
 
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