HELP (An aquarist nightmare)

ReefKeep66

New member
Hello all,
I don't really know where to begin so here we go. I have a 29g oceanic biocube that has been cycling for about 2 weeks. 20lbs of live sand and around 20lbs of live rock. Standard biocube filtration besides a Sr3 CPR protein skimmer i installed today. We'll get back to that in a moment. I have 2 green chroims and a clean up crew. A little early in the game to have livestock but I have a bigger (massive) issue facing me tomorrow morning. Literally. A buddy of mine owns a 75g tank that he's had cycling for around 2 months. He placed an online shipment for corals around a week ago expecting to get them tommorow. He was gone on a trip for 3 days and returned to see that his "sturdy" homemade stand had failed and left his 75g tank on the floor broken. If this wasn't bad enough he has $200 worth of coral coming in tomorrow. He asked me if I could house the coral for him until he got a new set up and running. He had already asked several LFS owners and they said they couldn't do it. So now all the pressures on me. I am worried. Like I mentioned earlier my tank has been cycling for 2 weeks and only today was I able to add my protein skimmer because I had to.order a new pump for it. As of now it is producing a ton of microbubbles in the tank, although I had used the skimmer a year or two before on a previous tank? is this normal? also the bubbles near the collection cup look like fizz from a can of Sprite. I was thinking maybe too much water but I can't get it to go down and only have the collection cup and valve adjustment and neither of.those are seeming to work. So as far as the corals go here is what I am (unfortunately under the circumstances) having to house as of tomorrow, Candy cane frag, frogspawn frag, brain coral frag, pink polyp copernicous, fine grape coral frag, Marshall Island Yellow fuzzy, Torch coral, montipora copernicous. As far as my parameters go temp 78, pH 8.3, Salinity 1.026, and nitrates and nitrites 50 or less. I've been doingdoing water changes and no adding nano reef supplements. I also forgot to mention before I am running a Jbj viper 150w metal halide and changing the bulb to a phenoix hexarc 150w Thursday along with setting up a HOB refugium. I am having trouble keeping water temp stable. Tank heats up almost to 80 when the lights are on and around 77 when their off. That's with a 100w heater on 70. Only heater I have atm. So I guess I'm basically seeking advice on how I should go about this. I know these are some of the.most un-ideal circumstances. I sincerely appreciate any advice or answers you guys can give me. I'm including pictures of the tank and skimmer. Thanks!
 
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Here's a photo of the tank as of right now
 
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Here's a couple pictures of the Sr3 CPR skimmer. Been running for around 2-3 hours. Had it placed in the opposite way (pump facing opposite side near last chamber on biocube) but I read online this is how their suppose to be set?
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It's almost impossible for both your nitrites and nitrates to be at 50ppm, check again. Did you test ammonia?
 
If you really have ammonia then you tank is not cycled. You should also have some nitrites. During the cycle, your ammonia will go up, then down. Nitrites will go up as ammonia goes down. Then you will be left with only nitrates. It is possible test kits are bad or you are reading the results incorrectly.

Back to your original question. Depending on what kind of coral your buddy ordered, your tank would not be a good candidate to house them. You would be better off putting them in a small tank with salt water only and a good light and do large water changes until he can find a more permanent place. In the mean while, keep testing your tank and when completely cycled move them over then.
 
Well I am using a 1 year or older red sea test kit, and I only have test strip for ammonia testing at the moment. Thanks for the response though! I'm going to do my best to house these corals for the time being. Large water changes and careful monitoring in my future.
 
You could add dr tims one and only for reef tanks. That could complete the cycle faster. Some people have had really good results from that. I used it and never saw a cycle spike.
 
$200 isn't a lot of coral. I would probably put these in a 5 gallon bucket(s) with fresh saltwater (reef crystals) and do 50% water changes weekly until his tank is ready. Use his lights for them.
 
Honestly, he should probably just keep the coral himself. He could do what everyone is saying with either a bucket or a 10 gallon tank. Then he could do the water changes, use his own lights and equipment.

While I'd want to help my friend too, by throwing the coral in a tank that hasn't finished cycling, he's basically setting you up to fail. The coral could end up dead or in bad health by the time he's ready for them and you'll feel horrible and he'll be upset with you.

If it were me, I'd tell him that my tank wasn't ready for coral, but I'd help him out with getting his setup and with the water changes in a temp tank for the coral.
 
$200 isn't a lot of coral. I would probably put these in a 5 gallon bucket(s) with fresh saltwater (reef crystals) and do 50% water changes weekly until his tank is ready. Use his lights for them.

I second this. Keep them in fresh (cured for 12 hours it so) made saltwater in a bucket, powerhead for surface water movement, and heater. Bio load on coral is minimal so as long as you don't feed them, you shouldn't get a spike. Just be sure to keep a water volume that low topped off so no salinity spike.
 
Or if you have a ten gallon lying around use that. As long as your lighting over it is sufficient you should be fine.
 
Keep the corals in buckets as advised above. Use biodigest or something similar in your tank, then move corals to your tank, about 3 days after biodigest addition.
 
I have contacted him and I'm going to house the corals in a 20g long until he can come pick them up hopefully this week.
 
How long will the corals be ok in a bucket or 20g with water movement and heating? The corals are suppose to be arriving in around 20 mins. Doing a water change on my main display and adding the rest of the bio-spira with the change and rigging up a bucke6t. Would a metal halide be too much for a bucket? Obviously the heat is going to be a factor but light intensity too high?
 
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