Frankysreef
New member
Up the salt to 1.025 -1.028
Help! Barebottom / SPS Dying!
- Thread starter jb32172
- Start date
Frankysreef
New member
maybe try to introduce some zooplankton, buy a pack of copepods.. Since your rock is cooked... maybe there is nothing left.
coralnut99
New member
I think Alk and PH swings would have a bigger role in problems like this. I also concur with how to handle increasing salinity. Just go slow until you get to where you want to be.
I'm also in the camp that thinks a handful of rusted screws can't possibly be the cause of coral fatalities. As proof I'll show you my 125 with rusted screws on a MAG 24, and my 120 with two external Mak4's. Guess which one has healthier SPS?
I'm also in the camp that thinks a handful of rusted screws can't possibly be the cause of coral fatalities. As proof I'll show you my 125 with rusted screws on a MAG 24, and my 120 with two external Mak4's. Guess which one has healthier SPS?
onthefly
Getting back into it!
How much do you feed the tank? How many fish do you have?
I ran into this problem with my tank (BB, no fish, no additional feeding, etc)....basically it became too sterile...and SPS began to decline. I've been heavily feeding for ~3 weeks now and don't see anymore lightening or necrosis....and might, actually be seeing some improvements *crosses fingers*
Remember, photosynthesis can't make something from nothing (first law of thermodynamics)! Zooxanthellae need a nitrogen source to complete the whole process........and the coral polyps provide this by prey, absorption, etc.
EDIT: I've read that "rusted screws" thread several times...and everytime, all I can do is this about all the people running "x" number of GRAMS of GFO in their phosban reactors. 6 screws with surface rust are the issue, I wonder if this pumps have other "issues" like a cracked housing or something.
I ran into this problem with my tank (BB, no fish, no additional feeding, etc)....basically it became too sterile...and SPS began to decline. I've been heavily feeding for ~3 weeks now and don't see anymore lightening or necrosis....and might, actually be seeing some improvements *crosses fingers*
Remember, photosynthesis can't make something from nothing (first law of thermodynamics)! Zooxanthellae need a nitrogen source to complete the whole process........and the coral polyps provide this by prey, absorption, etc.
EDIT: I've read that "rusted screws" thread several times...and everytime, all I can do is this about all the people running "x" number of GRAMS of GFO in their phosban reactors. 6 screws with surface rust are the issue, I wonder if this pumps have other "issues" like a cracked housing or something.
onthefly
Getting back into it!
You can read all about my set up and situation: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=697565
After doing some reading, and others suggestions, I put in 2 small fish (an orchid dotty and a green clown goby) and feed "rather heavily" with a mysis "milkshake" and flake (alternating days). I also tried some of the homebrew CV (for 2 weeks), but bought some of the real CV a week ago.
In the past 4-5 days, I've seen new growth tips on a couple corals who looked like hell (tip necrosis, base necrosis, bland color). So, we'll see....
After doing some reading, and others suggestions, I put in 2 small fish (an orchid dotty and a green clown goby) and feed "rather heavily" with a mysis "milkshake" and flake (alternating days). I also tried some of the homebrew CV (for 2 weeks), but bought some of the real CV a week ago.
In the past 4-5 days, I've seen new growth tips on a couple corals who looked like hell (tip necrosis, base necrosis, bland color). So, we'll see....
Frankysreef
New member
I feed 3 times daily, twice with a mix of marine pellets and cyclopeez, and once a day with mysis shrimp. Been doing that for 3 years, and I have 14 fish in my 225.
Frankysreef
New member
Speaking of metal, I dropped in a screw in my 135, forgot about it... it rusted, found it when I set up my 225, and nothing seemed to care. Could a been in there for months....corals still grew like mad.
FWIW you guys that are dismissing people's reports that have removed their Mags and seen immediate improvement in unexplained problems obviously haven't experienced the same thing. If you had you would agree
I agree that the problem sounds like lighting or improper acclimation to the level of lighting you have jb32172. Also you might do a search for Andy's Thread on lightening sps. That might help.
Chris
I agree that the problem sounds like lighting or improper acclimation to the level of lighting you have jb32172. Also you might do a search for Andy's Thread on lightening sps. That might help.
Chris
Yes it could. But lots of other things could also. Anything that causes stress to the coral can cause that. Here is the thread I was speaking of in case the search deal is down:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=445508&highlight=sps+lightening
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=445508&highlight=sps+lightening
Johnsteph10
New member
There's a lot of information in here - some might not be so great.
Temp swing - ok
pH?
Ca/Mag (most recent reading)?
SG - 1.022 - not the best for coral growth. You do not want to change this quickly. I would suggest making salt water and using it for top off rather than regular topoff water. This will slowly raise the SG up to goal of around 1.024-1.025.
Lighting - it is not the photoperiod in acclimating corals to new/brighter light..it is the distance (meaning it diffuses the light). Corals get saturated with light rather quickly..if it is too bright...
I bet the problem is that you basically have a new tank - and you added your corals way too quickly before the tank was re-established. Even with fully cured/cooked rock your tank will have a cycle and so on.
Just a few thoughts from a troubled mind.
Temp swing - ok
pH?
Ca/Mag (most recent reading)?
SG - 1.022 - not the best for coral growth. You do not want to change this quickly. I would suggest making salt water and using it for top off rather than regular topoff water. This will slowly raise the SG up to goal of around 1.024-1.025.
Lighting - it is not the photoperiod in acclimating corals to new/brighter light..it is the distance (meaning it diffuses the light). Corals get saturated with light rather quickly..if it is too bright...
I bet the problem is that you basically have a new tank - and you added your corals way too quickly before the tank was re-established. Even with fully cured/cooked rock your tank will have a cycle and so on.
Just a few thoughts from a troubled mind.
redwinger02
New member
First off what do you do for water changes and how often? As others stated are you getting any alk swings. IME ph swings of .3-.5 are not a bid deal neither is calcium swings. The other thing I would recommend is bumping your flow. You need lots of flow in a BB tank in order for it to be succesfull unless you are really good at siphoning and it appears you are with your readings. What test kits are you using? Salinty could have be a problem are you using a refractormeter to get a accurate reading? any where in the 1.023-1.027 should be just fine. I also agree rusted screws are not going to be a issue and cause this.
onthefly
Getting back into it!
Chris, I read that thread (it's been a while), but as I remember, those people who saw immediate results removed the whole pump and replaced it completely with another pump. Since then there has been a knee-jerk movement to remove SS screws. What if "said" persons overtighened there SS screws cracking the housings and exposing the water to "other" things (stray current, additional contact with metals which promoted the rust on the SS, etc.). Anyway....for another thread.
jb32172 - I still say, you need to add more nutrients to the water column. I have 2 fish in my 20, you have 4 in your 120.
