Help! Can't Get Rid of Ich

jreinhold

New member
I have a 180 gallon tank that Ive dosed with cuprimine twice for 6 weeks. (All this aggravation caused by a small coral reef angel I picked up from a guy that said it was treated with cuprimine and was good to go in a display tank.) I tested and made sure it was at .5 both times and the ich would go away. After 6 weeks id put cuprisorb in the tank and for the second time now the ich is back within 3 days of putting cuprisorb in the filter to remove the copper. Can somebody tell me what to do? I don't think I should dose with cuprimine for another 6 weeks that would just be to much copper exposure, but maybe somebody can tell me if it would be ok. The ich isn't to bad only 3 or 4 spots on a couple fish but I can tell they are already starting to get irritated and scratching. I have a UV sterilizer that I could use and do 20% water changes every day would that possibly get rid of the ich over a couple weeks? Anybody with success stories?

BTW quarantine tank is not an option since all fish are already exposed and i have like 13 fish in my tank and 2 of them wouldnt fit in any qt unless it was like a 90 gallon tank.
 
I fear you've just blitzed most of the bacteria in your tank. The depth of the rocks may hold enough to keep it alive and let it recover and re-cycle. Copper is generally not a treatment for a tank with live rock. A filter-dependent fish-only may get through it, but in general, antibacterial stuff will nuke all the cycle-type bacteria. At this point, putting a large canister filter on, keeping your water quality as high as possible, and dosing with a slime coat enhancer might be all you can do for the fish.

You need some assistance with this, I fear: please let us know a lot more about this tank.
 
It has about 175 pounds of live rock it is a FOWLR tank. I use only RODI water and the water parameters are always perfect. I never had to deal with ich before except in a qt. I shouldve quarantined the coral reef angel but I was being lazy and took the guys word. That fish was also the last fish and the tank is fully stocked so theres no way to quarantine all the fish outside of the tank. I have heard a couple people on here say that if you run a good uv sterilizer and do water changes eventually all the ich will be gone but i dont know if thats true.
 
Being a FOWLR tank, would hyposalinity work in this case? That wouldn't hurt the bacteria's ability to repopulate?

Everyone around here preaches TTM, and its the only way I've used.
 
Tank Transfer Method.

There is a sticky at the top of this forum that explains how to rid your system of ich, and TTM is one of them. But since your system is fully stocked, and TTM requires 2 QT tanks.......
 
Actually, on a previous tank,I treated with cupramine with live rock. It was fine. Just don't add any coral(as you said fowl, but still had to say it), even if you want to try something, for at least 6 months after you test 0 on your copper tests. I found cupramine to be very forgiving for me in the past with this sort of "last resort"treatment. I completely feel your pain..

As for the ich.. As you know, it's a pita.. I tried something that my lfs guy suggested: medicated food along with plenty of vitamins.I have had UV on all of my tanks in the past ten years.. Also water quality and stability had always been excellent.. I tried the hypo,I tried the quarantine, but I never tried the ttm. I just didn't have room, and in this tank/system, I don't have room for a quarantine.. Add to that, because I have a larger tank(180dt(210 gallon), I'd need a larger qt for the fish I have..

So my guy suggested medicated food, as they feed this at the store and run copper also(it's a very good and rare lfs store). Before this, I always had the "10 days" blues. Whenever I added a new fish, it seemed, that at day 10, I would see spots.. Which then would stress me out, because I knew what was coming and the battle, not to mention, it set my ich timer completely back.. Well, on the medicated food mix, when I began feeding,I noticed that, because it was quality frozen food to begin with, of course, they are more aggressively, and fattened up. Not to mention, I haven't seen a spot in over 6 months.. With no quarantine, and I've had quite a few new fish.. But the main thing, is to get them eating! Once I can, and the sooner I can, the better.. And I feed them this mix every day without fail..

The mix now consists of pe mysis, fish frenzy(for the black worms), seachem melafix(for stomach and internal issues), kz immune fish stable(overall health and vigor from experience), nori ground up, garlic(just to make it appetizing and following the melafix instructions), and selcon. I also feed nori at least 3 times a week, and everything(i mean my tusk, my wrasse, my damsel, and even my clown) except my cardinals and Mandarin eats it.. It's actually strange and funny to see all the fish that aren't typical herbs fighting over seaweed.. And on auto dose, I have tiny bits of nls pellets coming 4xa day. But these are mostly for the tangs and FoxFace as they are 2&3mm pellets..

Selcon needs some explanation in this mix for me, because really, this last addition showed the most drastic change for the good.. When I added it to the mix, within a couple days, I began seeing the fish act differently. Eating extremely aggressively, being more attentive, and they just looked "different".. It was in their eyes, they all of a sudden seemed really clear when they looked at me.. And then, they started filling out(all of them).. Now, they are all fat(i believe in a fat fish is a happy fish within reason). I think it was about two weeks in, after adding the selcon, that I saw my last ich spot.. And I haven't seen one since.. And every fish I have put in there, with this mix, they are eating within the first day, or at the latest the very next.. The selcon had the added affect, that it feeds the soft and lps coral, so a win win to me..I know some believe it's snake oil, but It's been a great product in my mix..

But, try some medicated frozen food.. If you address the nutritional needs of the animals from the inside, they are better able to fend off things from the outside.. The mix is very heavy in vitamins and amino acids, not to mention, the raw food elements(starting with a good and appealing base always helps). But I would really, really look into this that address vitamin deficiencies.. It does make a big difference..
 
Thanks for all the advice. I will try the selcon and melafix. I already supplement with a liquid organic trace mineral complex . I feed my fish mostly frozen mysis and kelp. They are all fat and healthy and never stopped eating normally. I will try the selcon & melafix and keep the water as perfect as possible.

If the ich is still around in a few months should I try removing all the live rock and retry the cuprimine? Maybe with out the live rock it will work? I don't know if the fish will freak out since a few of them like my yellow head goby basically live 90% of the time in the live rock. Any suggestions?
 
Thanks for all the advice. I will try the selcon and melafix. I already supplement with a liquid organic trace mineral complex . I feed my fish mostly frozen mysis and kelp. They are all fat and healthy and never stopped eating normally. I will try the selcon & melafix and keep the water as perfect as possible.

If the ich is still around in a few months should I try removing all the live rock and retry the cuprimine? Maybe with out the live rock it will work? I don't know if the fish will freak out since a few of them like my yellow head goby basically live 90% of the time in the live rock. Any suggestions?
Lol, why would you take it the rock? Absorption? Lol, honestly, any damage done, has been done. So, it's just my opinion, but I would, because of that fact, just try and eliminate the ich, then, worry about the rock.. You can always just let it do its thing.. But your fish(neither because it's a fowl), they are the priority.. But that's just my opinion..
 
I was thinking maybe remove the rock because the ich is so embedded in the live rock that the cuprimine can't kill all of the ich. Somebody said its much easier to eliminate the ich in an empty tank.
 
Adsorption from the live rock means that maintaining an effective concentration for the entire time necessary is incredibly difficult. Removing the fish, treating them properly, and leaving the tank fallow for 72 days will get rid of the ich, and is the only way to get of it.
 
Adsorption from the live rock means that maintaining an effective concentration for the entire time necessary is incredibly difficult. Removing the fish, treating them properly, and leaving the tank fallow for 72 days will get rid of the ich, and is the only way to get of it.

I agree.
 
Adsorption from the live rock means that maintaining an effective concentration for the entire time necessary is incredibly difficult. Removing the fish, treating them properly, and leaving the tank fallow for 72 days will get rid of the ich, and is the only way to get of it.

I too agree.
 
I had a similar issue a while ago in a 50 gallon FOWLR. I emailed Bob Fenner and he suggested removing all live rock, live sand and inverts to hypo the entire tank. Same would go for copper treatment. I ended up moving the fishes to QT and left the main tank fallow.
 
I had a similar issue a while ago in a 50 gallon FOWLR. I emailed Bob Fenner and he suggested removing all live rock, live sand and inverts to hypo the entire tank. Same would go for copper treatment. I ended up moving the fishes to QT and left the main tank fallow.

Did it work?
 
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