HELP. Everything is dead or dying!

what type of test kits are you using? Are you using a refractometer or swing arm hydrometer? It might be worthwhile getting your water tested independently either through a local club, LFS or buddy just to rule out any whacky parameters.
 
With all the water changes you have been doing have you tested the quality of the water that is being added to this tank. I had a fellow reefer friend that found out his tds meter was shot and his water quality was poor, causing his tank to cycle with every water change....the ammonia @.25 and everything else @ 0 is what is boggling my mind. I don't know if this even helps.
-Walter
 
WallyV

That's a great idea....never thought to test the RO/DI water. I am planning another water change tomorrow and will test it before I add it.

rickster66
I am embarrassed to admit but I have a swing arm hydrometer. I am looking into a refractometer but haven't had the money for one yet. I have been using a aquarium pharmaceuticals master saltwater kit. I also have a seachem kit that I rarely use as it is more complicated to mix the tests but should use it to cross reference the other kit.
 
Any chance the LFS has been selling you unhealthy fish?

Sounds to me, though, that there hasn't been enough bio load and the tank keeps cycling. Years back, people used to cycle their tanks by adding damsels. They are nasty little fish but they can live through a cycle. If you are out of options, you could try a couple of damsels and see if they make it (good luck getting rid of them if they do and you decide you don't want them). Given your bio load, your hermits are probably starving and try to eat the fins off any fish that will hold still long enough but I can't imagine that they could be killing the fish. that probably explains the ragged fins, though.

I don't see how it can be copper or salinity if your snails have survived. They are much more sensitive than fish to both. Doses of copper that will cure fish diseases are fatal to inverts. It is possible that you have some other contaminates, but I can't imagine what would kill the fish and not the inverts.

You can probably buy polyfilter at your LFS; if not, you can get it on-line.
 
Refractometers are the way to go, but your swing arm should get you within a specific range. Every once in a while a lemon comes along and will give way off readings. Maybe this is happening to you? You could be putting fish into your tank with way to low or way to high of salinity. I would take the water to your LFS and see what they tell you. Its a wild guess, but I hate to see someone struggling so much.
 
Popeye

going to look into the polyfilter and maybe try some chromis to cycle.

ryandlf

planning to take a water sample to my LFS to have it tested.

thanks everyone for the help and I will keep you posted.
 
Originally posted by reeftanknewbie
going to look into the polyfilter and maybe try some chromis to cycle.


There is no need to cycle with live fish. It is cruel and unnecessary. Use a piece of dead cocktail shrimp from the grocery store. It will work just as well if you want to recycle your tank.

Good luck!
Joyce
 
Good point....NO FISH.

I tested my ro/di water prior to mixing and Ammonia, nitrate, nitrite was all zero. ph was 7.4. did another 5 gallon water change today. this weekend I am planning to take a same of water to my LFS for testing. tried using my seachem test kit, felt like i needed a degree in chemistry.

thanks for all of your help...I will keep you all posted as to my progress. any thoughts about the bleaching of corralline algae?
 
Your original post states that you are dosing for calcium once per week.

What is your calcium testing out to?? Do you have corals that are using up the calcium?

Joyce
 
I do have a few corals and started dosing calcium as a result of observing the bleaching of the algae. did this for two weeks then stopped as I have only a handful of corals and do water changes weekly. your thoughts?
 
You should only dose after you test the levels and verify that your tank needs the additions. This is true of Calcium, Alkalinity and Magnesium, which should all be in balance.

The bleaching may not have had anything to do with your calcium level. Also, you state that the algae was bleaching, not your corals?

Joyce
 
thanks......rookie mistake on my part. as for the corals which I failed to mention they are not bleaching however have wilted and do not look as healthy as once did. (by the way I only have some zooanthids right now)
 
Keep us posted on what your water testing results are this weekend.

What is the tds of your RO/DI water?

Joyce
 
Ok so I have been over the past several days feeding the tank with shrimp pieces to see if I am recycling. I did a 5 gallon water change on Thursday and today I have no ammonia, nitrates, nitrites, phosphates. Calcium is within rang as well as PH. My RO/DI water was also tested for everything but TDS (I have to purchase a tester). Have not lost any of my clean up crew since the fish (3 turbo snails over 5yrs old, 1 blue legged crab). Noticed a slight increase in foam in my skimmer. Thanks again everyone for all of the great ideas and support. I will continue to keep this post going until I am completely back on track.
 
Is it possible that these fish were caught with cyanide? Maybe the next fish should come from e a different shop..
 
I guess anything is possible. I know that I have been buying me fish from toofishy.com for awhile and this is the first problems I have had.
 
Want to change my filters and get a TDS meter. Anyone know of a cheap place to find these? I have a 35 GPD RO/DI kent maxxima 4 stage system.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15660025#post15660025 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reeftanknewbie
WallyV

That's a great idea....never thought to test the RO/DI water. I am planning another water change tomorrow and will test it before I add it.

rickster66
I am embarrassed to admit but I have a swing arm hydrometer. I am looking into a refractometer but haven't had the money for one yet. I have been using a aquarium pharmaceuticals master saltwater kit. I also have a seachem kit that I rarely use as it is more complicated to mix the tests but should use it to cross reference the other kit.

First, do yourself a real favor and at least borrow a refractometer to check against your hydrometer. When I bought my refractometer, I found my so called calibrated hydrometer was off quite a bit. It would read 1.020 for water that was 1.023. That is a pretty big difference and could be quite ugly at the extremes (like you think you are running 1.026 and are actually running 1.029, especially if the LFS is running the other way (say they run at 1.018).

Second, with the tank lying fallow so long between trying new fish, you probably are essentially cycling the tank from scratch each time. Cycle it with shrimp or something, test making sure it really has cycled and then buy a couple of hardy and cheap fish. Tangs IMO are not a good choice.

Third, you may be introducing a poison from somewhere. For example you might put on sunscreen, think you have it off and really don't. Same with mosquito repellent. Another real possibility is the charcoal you are running with. If it hasn't been changed in a long time, it may have sucked up all kinds of bad stuff it is releasing back into the tank.

Also, in my opinion, the prism skimmer is essentially worthless. I have one. I actually use it but on a 20l but just as another source of flow.
 
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Lets get to the basics, forget the calcium / TDS all of the non essentials at the moment. You cant keep a fish alive, why are you worried about calcium?
1. How much live rock do you have running in your system?
2. You say you have powerheads, is there any surface water agitation? Try to make the surface of your water as rough as possible, this will provide oxygen to your tank, fish cant live without oxygen.
3. Do you replace evaporated water with new, FRESH water? Im guessing you should have at least a 1/4th of a gallon a day evaporation. If you dont top off, your salinity will creep to unhealthy levels.
4. I dont think your lighting is strong enough at all to support coraline algae, much less zooanthids.
5. When you have ammonia, a 5 gallon water change isnt going to do much at all, If you have any readings of ammonia I would at least try a 20 gal water change, just my opinion.
6. Are you running any type of sand? You need some type of surface area, sand or live rock for bacteria to live on.
7. Torn fins are a sign of ich also, have you seen any spots on your fish before they die?
8. Test kits last tops 1 year, then they become innacurate. Chances are that if you bought your API test kits from a commercial pet store, they are already a year old. Look at the lot numbers on the bottles. I checked my local pet store and found all of their test kits to be over a year old already. I bought my new set online and they were made within the last month.
9. Get back to the basics, Rock / Flow / Light. Read up on alot of the newbie manuals and reefkeeping.com tutorials. When in doubt, Waterkeeper will always help out. Hes a great source of knowledge and will always help a new reefer out. READ as much as possible.
10. Most swing arm hydrometers are temperature sensitive. Most are calibrated to test water at 77 degrees, If you take water to a fish store to test and they use swing arms, remember temp plays a huge part.
11. What is your temp running at? How are you heating your tank? Are there large swings in temperature from night to day? Larger than + or - 3 degrees?
12. Resist temptation, when your tank is young only introduce one fish at a time.
13. We have all learned this hobby the hard way, we all have lost fish, we all have had a near mental breakdown over our tanks at one point in the hobby or another. Keep your head up high, dont get discouraged and sometimes its best to just walk away from the tank and let nature take its course if you know everythings in check from the ability that you have to create. Stress kills fish, Huge monster hands in a tank moving their whole world around, that would stress me out lol. Keep an observant eye at your ecosystem and try to remember your taking an animal from the sea to your livingroom. Try to re-create the best environment you can for him/her. Your doing a great job already on asking questions and researching. Keep up the good work!
 
Originally posted by Lyfey
Lets get to the basics, forget the calcium / TDS all of the non essentials at the moment.

I don't know how you can tell him to forget the TDS.

If the TDS is up and chlorine or even worse chloramines are getting through his RO unit, it will kill his fish.

Water quality is one of the most important parameters. It is hardly a non essential item.
 
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