Help - First time QT -Nitrites

[philly_rfa]

Got myself in a pickle...

I setup a QT over 2 weeks back, used sponge and filter floss that were in sump for a month or so. I thought I had cycled it...but apparently not. Ill have to do more reading before i setup my next one...

But now, i put in a $50 wrassse thinking it was ready. Well, good news is, the ammonia is at zero, according to my Seachem Free Ammonia test. Nitrates are pretty close to zero. Barely color change on API test. However, Nitrites are reading high. API test shows atleast 2ppm, but likely 5 or more... at that range I have a hard time reading the color variation.

I have Prime, which i already dosed at double the normal amount. That was an hour ago, not seeing improvement yet...

I am about to do a water change, but want to make sure i am doing the right steps now. I have searched the forums, and get conflicting opinions...

Some say nitrite is toxic to salt water fish, some say not. This link Randy posted on another thread says Nitrite is not toxic until very high levels for salt water fish:
Nitrite and the Reef Aquarium
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-06/rhf/index.htm

And some say changing water will delay the cycle to complete and as long as ammonia is zero, fish will be fine.

So, looking for help. Should i change water? Dose more prime? Or just wait it out as long as ammonia doesn't go up?

 

[philly_rfa]

I shoudl also note, the fish looks very happy. I drip acclimated him for 3 hours on Sunday afternoon, so i am 2 days in. He comes to glass when I come in the room. He is eating, very well actually. Swims around, looks fine. No stress that i can tell.

 

[TokiHacker]

I shoudl also note, the fish looks very happy. I drip acclimated him for 3 hours on Sunday afternoon, so i am 2 days in. He comes to glass when I come in the room. He is eating, very well actually. Swims around, looks fine. No stress that i can tell.

your doing the right thing to lower nitrite levels IMO. With the WC and the Prime.

 

[scooter31707]

I would purchase a ammonia alert badge if you don't already own one. IMO, I would continue with the dosing prime along with bio-spira or stability, to get some bacteria going in there. If a water change is needed I would do a small one. Also some hobbyist still do the drip acclimation method, but IMO, it's much easier to match your QT with the bag water. Soon as you open that bag, ammonia is created in the bag water making it dangerous for the fish. Just match your salinity with the bag water, temp acclimate for 15-20 minutes and dump the fish in.

 

[philly_rfa]

I would purchase a ammonia alert badge if you don't already own one. IMO, I would continue with the dosing prime along with bio-spira or stability, to get some bacteria going in there. If a water change is needed I would do a small one. Also some hobbyist still do the drip acclimation method, but IMO, it's much easier to match your QT with the bag water. Soon as you open that bag, ammonia is created in the bag water making it dangerous for the fish. Just match your salinity with the bag water, temp acclimate for 15-20 minutes and dump the fish in.

I have the ammonia badge, and then i check daily with Seachem just in case. I have microbacter 7, would that work same as Stability?

Also, for acclimating... I thought the idea with the drip acclimation was to let them adjust to all water parameters, not just salinity. If that's not the case, i'm all onboard... So you would ensure same Salinity, then temp acclimate, then put right in without putting tank water in the bag? And when you say dump in, i assume you mean net it and release, or do you mean pour in the bag water to QT?

 

[Sk8r]

Just do new water. There is nothing wrong with clean new water. Cycling is only in hopes of enough bacteria to keep up with fish waste and stray food, but if you see a problem, just give him new water.
And acclimation is 99.999999999% about salinity, because a rapid rise in salt will overstress and damage the kidneys. Other parameters are not generally critical.

 

[philly_rfa]

Just do new water. There is nothing wrong with clean new water. Cycling is only in hopes of enough bacteria to keep up with fish waste and stray food, but if you see a problem, just give him new water.
And acclimation is 99.999999999% about salinity, because a rapid rise in salt will overstress and damage the kidneys. Other parameters are not generally critical.

Interesting. Ok, make sense on salinity and acclimation.

About the nitrites then... since ammonia is holding at zero (before using Prime), do you think I should just dose Prime to keep nitrites and nitrates in check while he's in QT, with periodic WC? Or bulk WC without Prime or other additives?