steveweast
Active member
Rich....you were there at the BBQ...how could you miss that monster red goni ??? the thing practically walks down the hall.
help me ID new LPS
- Thread starter h20cooled
- Start date
steveweast
Active member
OK....I gotta ask....Travis had several red ones available (still does)....why take the one with the damage ???? Do you like challenges ????
waterfaller1
New member
I keep sps and gonioporas..all are doing awesome.Did this come from Upscales? I had an e-mail that said he did'nt have any samoensis but was looking for some. Does he have them now?
I had one shipped to me over Christmas {from someone else} that came DOA. I want one pretty bad.He also told me he had some that were yellow centered,and that they were more rare...that must be one of them.To my knowledge samoensis is red w/ a purple center and stuchburyi is a short red polyped one.Good luck with yours !
I had one shipped to me over Christmas {from someone else} that came DOA. I want one pretty bad.He also told me he had some that were yellow centered,and that they were more rare...that must be one of them.To my knowledge samoensis is red w/ a purple center and stuchburyi is a short red polyped one.Good luck with yours !
JENnKerry
Premium Member
Sorry Steve, but I take offense to a comment like that. You make it sound like I know absolutely nothing. I thought I defined "dirty" water as being very rich in nutrients. If you read my post you will see that I defined it by being rich in mutrients. And from the research I've done, this has always been my thinking towards it.
I totally respect you and you have an amazing setup (I've been to your website plenty of times), but please do not make me feel like I'm this big by saying comments like that. Thanks
steveweast
Active member
JennKerry...... I'm sorry that you took that post as an offense.....there was no offense intended. However, I still think the term "dirty" or even "nutrient" rich is imprecise and open to the readers' interpretation or misinterpretation. Do mean high in dissolved organics ? high in phosphate ? high in nitrates ? algae filled tank ?
Exactly what are you saying when you say dirty ? Are you saying that gonis feed off whatever makes the water dirty ? or perhaps something else feeds off the dirt in the water that then feeds the goni ? Exactly what mechanism is invovled here ? I'm not even sure whether you're saying that's it's the dirty water that's relevant to the coral.....or that the dirty water is relevant to something else that's required by the coral.
Your terminology is just vague for someone like Rich who wants to care for his coral. He's left to wonder how to dirty up his tank..... or what exactly is meant by dirty....or how do I add nutrients....and in what form. I'm not attacking you....I agree with you totally that food is the answer to keeping gonis. We just need to be more precise if our advice is to be of value.
I get the impression that you're saying that a nutrient rich tank high in dissolved organics will lead to planktonic blooms that will feed the gonis...... That's my interpretation of your use of the word "dirty"....but, I'm not sure that's what you mean. If this is the case, why can't a suitable substitute food like cyclopese or oyster eggs be used and not have a high organic tank ? I ask this only because I know of many folks besides myself that have had years of success with gonis (including reproduction) that don't have high organic tanks. I admire your efforts in keeping gonis....it's an admirable venture that you've entered.....I just wish your advise..... which is sound.....was more precise and more clear to those wishing to keep these animals. Again....no offense is meant to you.
Exactly what are you saying when you say dirty ? Are you saying that gonis feed off whatever makes the water dirty ? or perhaps something else feeds off the dirt in the water that then feeds the goni ? Exactly what mechanism is invovled here ? I'm not even sure whether you're saying that's it's the dirty water that's relevant to the coral.....or that the dirty water is relevant to something else that's required by the coral.
Your terminology is just vague for someone like Rich who wants to care for his coral. He's left to wonder how to dirty up his tank..... or what exactly is meant by dirty....or how do I add nutrients....and in what form. I'm not attacking you....I agree with you totally that food is the answer to keeping gonis. We just need to be more precise if our advice is to be of value.
I get the impression that you're saying that a nutrient rich tank high in dissolved organics will lead to planktonic blooms that will feed the gonis...... That's my interpretation of your use of the word "dirty"....but, I'm not sure that's what you mean. If this is the case, why can't a suitable substitute food like cyclopese or oyster eggs be used and not have a high organic tank ? I ask this only because I know of many folks besides myself that have had years of success with gonis (including reproduction) that don't have high organic tanks. I admire your efforts in keeping gonis....it's an admirable venture that you've entered.....I just wish your advise..... which is sound.....was more precise and more clear to those wishing to keep these animals. Again....no offense is meant to you.
JENnKerry
Premium Member
It's cool Steve. You're right. When I think of nutrient rich, I think of all the planktonic types of life and foods that are in the water for the goniporas to feed off of. Never recommending making a tank high in phosphates or nitrates or the like.
My 55 was very high in organics because of the heavy feedings of cyclopeeze and the underskimming. I base our success off of what has worked for us. By doing what we've done, we've had our oldest one for two years and it has reproduced ten times to date.
I've always thought I was right to the point. I know sometimes I should've gone into more detail like Reefartist.
But everything's cool :thumbsup:
My 55 was very high in organics because of the heavy feedings of cyclopeeze and the underskimming. I base our success off of what has worked for us. By doing what we've done, we've had our oldest one for two years and it has reproduced ten times to date.
I've always thought I was right to the point. I know sometimes I should've gone into more detail like Reefartist.
But everything's cool :thumbsup:
steveweast
Active member
I'm glad that you see it that way. Folks around here are looking for very specific details....almost recipe like....when addressing their concerns. The less open to misinterpretation our advice is, the better. In essence, the key, IMO, is supplying the proper food in terms of both size and quality. There are different ways to acheive this.....manually food additions would be one.....and naturally growing a live planktonic food would be another. Each approach has its pros and cons.....and it's up to each aquarist to decide which course is best for them.
waterfaller1
New member
It looks great! Thank you for the tip..I just ordered the other one!
John Kelly
Goniopora Aficionado
Thanks Steve. My thoughts exactly. It's confusing.
When I think of "nutrients" I think of the actual foods, however small or large they are, before the moment they begin to decompose or are digested and released. It is easy to create "nutrient rich" water and to take much of those nutrients out before they begin to make the water "dirty".
........my philosophical approach to goniopora in a "clean" tank.
Emster
New member
This is mine, can someone ID this for me? I think it is G. Stutchburi, am I right? It has been doing very well, its in a 10gal under PC lights and have been feeding it every three days with cyclopeez, oyster eggs, mysis thin shaved.It is one of my favorite corals. Thanks for any info.
John Kelly
Goniopora Aficionado
h20cooled,
I made a mistake. Your coral is a not a stutchburyi. It probably is a somaliensis, but it is lighter than any I've seen.
Emster,
That is not a stutchburyi either.
The polyps of a stutchburyi are smaller in diameter than any other goniopora. They are not much larger than the width of a No.2 pencil lead.
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