Help me make this 48x48x24 240g an anemone heaven

kmu

New member
Hi guys,

I have a 48x48x24 240g cube that Im just setting up and would like some anemones to be the center pieces of the reef tank. I would like to keep several bubble tips and a carpet anemone.

I've had succes with a RBTA and a GBTA for more than 1-1/2 year on my 70g reef tank.

This is what I have in mind

Circulation
Medium flow since I've seen that RBTA don't like too much flow, probably a 1,500 gph return pump and a couple (2) of vortech MP40s.

Lighting
I would like to add 2 ATI sunpower 6x39 watt fixtures (12 T5s), since the tank is 48 long and with the eurobracing I have a 36" opening on top, thats why I see no reason on getting a longer fixture and I will grow less algae on the acrylic walls.

Filtration
I will have around 100 lbs of marco rocks and 50 lbs of fiji.
In the sump I will have a refugium with chaeto and a large skimmer

What any other suggestions do you guys have?
 
The only change I would make is to take the powerheads out. Have a CLS instead. BTA's especially love powerheads and that can ruin the whole tank.
 
Sounds like it'll be an impressive tank. It's suggested to wait at least 6 months before adding an anemone to a tank, tho.
 
I wouldnt mix carpets and bta's you can have some chemical warfare. I would reccomend using halides for a 24 inch deep tank.
 
If I were starting the tank, I would do a shallow aragonite fine sand bed (less than half an inch). I've had deep sand beds and shallow, and my preference is shallow. I would have a seaswirl for the return, they are very reliable and make a nice random water flow. I don't know that I would mix a carpet with BTAs. If you choose to, have a power filter or a canister with activated carbon and change it every few weeks. Currently I have a tank with RBTAs under MH and one with RBTAs and GBTAs under T-5s. I think you're going the right direction with T-5s assuming bubbling is important to you. My BTAs stay bubbled under the t-5s; however, the same clones only sporadically bubble under MH. For that shallow of a tank (24 inches), and with an ATI fixture, you should be able to easily keep BTAs to the bottom of the tank (and beyond). I'm assuming you will have ATI brand bulbs, which are excellent, as are a few other brands.

Best of luck with the project!
 
T5's are more than adequate to provide ample lighting for your BTA's to thrive. 24" is not considered deep at all, and you should have no problem keeping anything (including light hungry SPS) alive at even the bottom of the tank.

Agreed that mixing nems many times proves to be detrimental to one or more of the anemone's health. I have no personal experience with this however, to advise you which combinations might work and which ones are a certain no-go.

I also think it's a good plan to only use 3' rather than 4'. Assuming an open aquascape, the edges won't have much of anything growing on it.

Nobody knows why some BTA's bubble and others don't. Many people have their theories, but don't choose a lighting scheme due to this thought. There is no proven correlation or even strong evidence to suggest any particular reason. I've had RBTA's that half was bubbled and half was not at the same time.

Finally, Vortech's with the intake covers should be nem-safe. CL just use up so much extra energy, and you can't adjust them too much.
 
your tank is big enough to house 2 different types of nems in cause they go chemical on each other. i like your lights, i actually think it might be to much. i know nems like alot of light, but that is alot!! hehe
i would love to see pics if you get it up and running. you should get different types of bubbles, rbta, gbta, lemondrop, rainbow, purple tips etc.
 
While it's true that there has been a lot of speculation and no definitive answers regarding bubbling in BTAs (lighting, water flow, presence of clownfish, hungry vs. sated, etc.); I can say that there is a correlation between lighting and bubbling in my case. The same anemones have been under different types of lighting and with my T-5s they bubble consistently. I've also have observed two anemones side-by-side, one bubbled and the other not bubbled when under PC and MH; however, with t-5s all the anemones bubble, some are clones and some are of different lineages.

I am not of the opinion that a BTA is healthier or better off in any way because they bubble; however, I know some people find bubbling to be aesthetically pleasing. In my case (configuration, fixture, perhaps both) there is a correlation between the lighting and bubbling.
 
If I were starting the tank, I would do a shallow aragonite fine sand bed (less than half an inch). I've had deep sand beds and shallow, and my preference is shallow. I would have a seaswirl for the return, they are very reliable and make a nice random water flow. I don't know that I would mix a carpet with BTAs. If you choose to, have a power filter or a canister with activated carbon and change it every few weeks. Currently I have a tank with RBTAs under MH and one with RBTAs and GBTAs under T-5s. I think you're going the right direction with T-5s assuming bubbling is important to you. My BTAs stay bubbled under the t-5s; however, the same clones only sporadically bubble under MH. For that shallow of a tank (24 inches), and with an ATI fixture, you should be able to easily keep BTAs to the bottom of the tank (and beyond). I'm assuming you will have ATI brand bulbs, which are excellent, as are a few other brands.

Best of luck with the project!

Yes all ATI bulbs
6 ATI Blue Plus
2 ATI True Actinic
2 ATI Purple Plus
2 ATI Aquablue
 
IMO, a tank with just one species of anemone (but maybe a few different morphs) looks prettier, as well as eliminating compatibility problems. One of the regulars here set up a cube with nothing but BTAs and a pair of Clarkii, and it was gorgeous. There are lots of nice cloned BTAs out there. Get a pair of your favorite clowns, and they'll be in heaven!
 
You like it blue. Fortunately, the blue bulbs still have a significant PAR, except for actinic. That would be way too blue for my eye, but each to his own.
 
While it's true that there has been a lot of speculation and no definitive answers regarding bubbling in BTAs (lighting, water flow, presence of clownfish, hungry vs. sated, etc.); I can say that there is a correlation between lighting and bubbling in my case. The same anemones have been under different types of lighting and with my T-5s they bubble consistently. I've also have observed two anemones side-by-side, one bubbled and the other not bubbled when under PC and MH; however, with t-5s all the anemones bubble, some are clones and some are of different lineages.

I am not of the opinion that a BTA is healthier or better off in any way because they bubble; however, I know some people find bubbling to be aesthetically pleasing. In my case (configuration, fixture, perhaps both) there is a correlation between the lighting and bubbling.

I realize in your case you may have seen a correlation, but what I was trying to get across was be careful recommending lighting to someone presenting your experiences as truths instead of experiences. I had RBTA's for almost 3 years under T5, and they never bubbled. This was after coming from a tank with MH where they apparently bubbled all the time. I'm only mentioning this for a learning experience for all, not to argue with you. I respect what you have to say and your experiences, I'm just playing a little bit of devil's advocate here.:fun2:
 
I agree with Gary about the actinic. IMO, there's really no need for actinic lighting with T5. You might as well run AquaBlue Plus bulbs which give you a great blue color and actual produce usable light energy.

Is the ATI purple plus similar to the KZ fiji purple?
 
I agree with Gary about the actinic. IMO, there's really no need for actinic lighting with T5. You might as well run AquaBlue Plus bulbs which give you a great blue color and actual produce usable light energy.

Is the ATI purple plus similar to the KZ fiji purple?

Yes the ATI purple plus is very similar to the KZ fiji purple...

I was considering the ATI super actinic just for dawn and dusk, still not decided since actinic T5 bulbs are very dim, or just my experience with the UVL actinic bulb.
 
You like it blue. Fortunately, the blue bulbs still have a significant PAR, except for actinic. That would be way too blue for my eye, but each to his own.


Im currently running at home a

3 ATI Blue plus
1 UVL actinic
1 KZ Fiji purple
1 UVL 75% actinic, 25% white...

Its a 4 blue and 2 semi-white combo and its looks amazing, a little whiter and brighter than a radium but will a lot more pop on all the colors.
 
Bues, I appreciate that. It seems like this is a whole area for research if someone were so inclined. Some marine biologist should design and run the study--this is the stuff dissertations are made of.

Kmu, indeed you do like it blue, some 19000K or so. And, some BTAs do come from deeper waters, so if you have one of those, they should feel right at home. That's quite a tank you have there, then envy of many of us I assure you. The fact you're already experienced combined with your obvious interest in researching the project points to one heck of a tank somewhere in the near future. I hope you do a tank build thread on here. You know know how we eat that up ;-)
 
Bues, I appreciate that. It seems like this is a whole area for research if someone were so inclined. Some marine biologist should design and run the study--this is the stuff dissertations are made of.

Kmu, indeed you do like it blue, some 19000K or so. And, some BTAs do come from deeper waters, so if you have one of those, they should feel right at home. That's quite a tank you have there, then envy of many of us I assure you. The fact you're already experienced combined with your obvious interest in researching the project points to one heck of a tank somewhere in the near future. I hope you do a tank build thread on here. You know know how we eat that up ;-)

THX, I do have a tank built, its in the large reef tank forum.

Here it is

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1917900
 
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