HELP - overflow issues!!!

ben&bobbi

New member
the water level in my tank is about 1/2" from THE TOP!

can i cut the slots deeper to lower the water level? also the are pretty thin gaps, how wide should these be?

the pump is turned WAY down!!!!
 
Ive seen people remove the teeth completly and replace them with gutter guard to keep fish and snails out, Is the plumbing keeping up? If the teeth are the only problem I dont see much problem with cutting them to let more flow by faster, thus lowering the level a bit. If its the plumbing thats not keeping up you may have to try something else.
 
this might sound weird but if you useing a "u tube" something might be cloging it. I've heard from other people that they have had snails get stuck in there. Or even somewhere else on the drain line might have some blockage.
 
i don't know about the plumbing, i can't turn the pump up enough to find out!

the overflows go all the way up to the top of the tank, then the teeth have about 1/8" gap and about 1" long. The guy i got the tank from installed them himself, not sure if he cur the slots himself!

i did some reading and most places said 1/4" gap and about 1.25" long.

any suggestions for an easy way to modify. i am sure it will end up looking rough at this point. I am going to do every other one with a rotozip and see what happens!
 
Ben,

Hummmm I think we talked about this didn't we.. :)

What is the water level like in the overflows? Is the overflow low or high? If its high then its not your teeth, its more then likely your plumbing.. If its low then teeth could be the issue.

How far down is turned way down?

OOO and I run mine about 1/2 - 3/4" from the top as well.. ;) not to worry..

Jack
 
the water in the overflows is a couple inches below the water level, but if i turn the pump up, it fills up, then i get too nervous to see if it settles back down.

are your overflows all the way to the top of the tank?

i know we had talked about it, that's why i started with the pump turned way down, and was going to try to turn it up from there. but then ...... i sent you a pm.
 
let it run open enough to fill most of the overflow, just keep an eye on it to see. Also what kind of plumbing is in the overflow box? I found by adding a airline that ran about half way down my durso I was able to pumped a good amount more water through. Something about water pressure and air pressure and fluid dynamics and the phase of the moon but regardless It worked well, give it a shot, quick and easy to try:)
 
Is your box thats inside the tank. Is it adjustable. I have had 2 different types and there both adjustable. IF so lower it in the tank and that will lower the level of the water in the tank. It will also make it move more water.
 
these aren't the "U" tube overflows, they are built in corner overflows.

here is the pic of the water level. you can see where the slots are 1/8" and the spacing is 1/4". i would think it should be the other way. You can just barely see where the over flow goes all the way to the brown frame of the tank.

In our 75, it is flat, no slots, and with a Rio 2500, it runs 3/4" over the top of the overflow divider.
20025overflow.JPG



Here is what the water level looks like, but still slightly surging. I shortened the drain tube, they were about 6" in the water. that seemed to help some.

20025water_level.JPG
 
Its weird that the box isnt adjustable. I would cut it down then to make it lower in the display tank. That or order a cpr overflow from Marinedepot.com. I have to of them and love them. There adjustable in every direction you can think of.
 
I think you do need to open up the gaps. You could even take every other tooth out or more, then use gutter guard. But then that may drop the water down lower than you want in the main display tank...

What happens when you make small increases in the pump flow? Is your drain handling the flow OK?
 
Last edited:
Pull the pipes out of the overflow and let it drain all the way down. Yes it will be noisy and cause massive bubbles, but it will tell you where your issue is. If it drains fine, then your durso is restricting it and needs to be lowered or changed. I put 1 1/4 inch pipe all the way down to a 1 inch reducter at the hole. Not sure if you do the same.

If it still is too much, then it appears it would be the teeth. What GPH are you pushing through? They rate at 600 per each one but I wouldn't go that high imo.
 
ok, got back from the races in orlando today.

i pulled the top off the drain pipes and water levels dropped down to the pipe opening. i was able to open the pump up a little more so far, but no the water level in the tank is touching the brown trim - way too close for me.

so i am going to open up the teeth in the overflow before attempting any more.

i also will remove the grating i put in the drain to block snails/hermits. hen try to put them back in.
 
ok, i removed the grating pieces and it is flowing the same as with the pipes open.

so lesson so far - don't but grating in the dorso pipes to block snails! the water it blocks is much worse - except for a flood!
 
overflow

overflow

just skimmed through forum and what pump are you using to return the water? is the drain drilled through the tank? and are you running a true durso. i ran two mag 24 full at 3 feet of head each on 2 allglass old style overflows with stand kits and filled overflow 3/4 from the top. not a problem. they rate them lower to be safe. where do you live in mims? i live in bentoak off of 46. maybe i could take a look and see if a can help....
 
skinnyjoe1976
live down turpentine (between kangaroo store and bar)at the corner of guil, about 1.5 miles from 46.

i am running a dart, and the tank is drilled standard and i am pretty sure it is a dorso, looks like the website. If you were able to run by tonight or tomorrow night, that would be great. i am taking wednesday off to start cutting!
Ben
321-543-1426
 
here's the update.
Joe stopped over and took a look at it with me. Here were the suggestions -

1) insert u-tube to see if overflow baffles are the issue - ok, i had to try it last night. It definately helped the water level in the tank, not much changed inside the overflow. SO, i had to turn it up a couple notches (very small ones!) not able to open pump up much more, started getting the "flushing / surging" inside the overflows.
so, this leads me to believe, the drain plumbing won't handle the amount of water. but the slots will neeb to be opened up to drop the water level in the tank slightly.

2) after looking at the plumbing, thinks the restriction is the 90^ right off the bulkhead. The drains come straight down about 10" below the tank, then a 90^ fitting, then the 2 sides double "T"ed together, then 2 lines into sump.

the suggestion here is to come right off the blkhd with a 45 and add some down slope to the drain lines.
My only concern with this is that i need room for a valve, and a "T" for the ref/skimmer on each drain. These take room, and my sump is only about 12" below the main tank.

i could try this, but i will have to cut out the blkhds, i must be the only person who glued in the drain lines. I'll have to see if i can find new ones locally.

for those who didn't read my build, here's what the plumbing looks like, only changes are the pink lines for the refu and skimmer are straight out, then turn 90^ down, and the 2 90^ were replaced with 2 "T"'s on the green drain lines tying them together.

20025180gallon-latest.jpg
 
Last edited:
Back
Top