HELP - overflow issues!!!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9385225#post9385225 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by flfirefighter13
... I found by adding a airline that ran about half way down my durso I was able to pumped a good amount more water through. Something about water pressure and air pressure and fluid dynamics and the phase of the moon but regardless It worked well, give it a shot, quick and easy to try:)

did you drill a second hole in the cap and drop the airline in? how high above the cap is the airline supposed to be?
 
If you really wanted to get rid of the restrictions in the drain line ditch the tee's completely. Have plumbing come from bulkhead to flex PVC and dump into the right side of the sump, you would have no 90s or other fittings to add restriction. You can then Tee off of the dart to dump into the refugium and whatever you have the right pink line doing. In the perfect world it would be nice to have the refugium fed with straight tank water but I bet the amount of flow going through the sump versus GPH that go through the skimmer would prove that plenty of unskimmed water will end up going through the dart to the refugium. Haveing these tees off of the supply line will also reduce the amount of flow going from the dart to tank, thus reliveing some of the GPH that must go through the overflows.......... FYI Aquatic Eco sells bulkheads that have threads on the inside of the top and bottom side.
The flushing gurgle sound has always been solved for me by running airline down the durso, may need to lines run into it and might have to try different lengths to get it right. Im still tweaking my 180 but so far it hasnt been bad with the dart.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9406905#post9406905 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ben&bobbi
did you drill a second hole in the cap and drop the airline in? how high above the cap is the airline supposed to be?

To test I just run it through the big hole and feed it down, once I have the confirmation it is working I drill a hole. I always end up with at least one hole though. I usually run it out of the tank to keep the end from getting caked up with creep. You will need to pull them occasionally and clean them out. The 180 has just had one of the hoses pulled out and left just the hole open and it stopped all issues, the other overflow has a 12" piece in it with the top 4 inches out of the tank. Can never figure out why but tanks with two dursos always end up with different lenghts on each side.
 
cutting the notches in the over flow definatly helped lower the level in the main tank. i have decided to hold off on changing the plumbing for right now. going to focus on getting the rest finished and the house cleaned back up!

after talking to my boss, he isn't sure that with the little room i have to make a drop that it will be worth the effort. Even the first 45 will put it close to the sump top.

on the 1.5 drains, i thought it will still come down to the 1" bulkhd size, right?

Ben
 
Do you have a drain and a return in the overflow? Sorry skimmed the thread. If you do just make all the holes in the overflow box a drain. If not a 1" drain can handle about 700 gph alone. With a vac. on the drain like a durso it can handle alot more. A Dart is rated up to 3600 gph. With head pressure it drops fast. Never the less a pump should be run wide open to help eliminate heat. And I would strive for hi flow in the tank like the Ocean has.
 
smpolyp - now there's another thought! i will keep that in mind. i was hoping not to have any plumbing behind the tank, but this is a good idea!
 
overflow

overflow

cool and the 1.5' size would be all the way from the bottom of the tank to the sump to help prevent vapor locking.
 
hey Ben! Just to let you know I had the same problem with my overflow and cutting the top teeth made all the difference, her is a pic from a old reef buddy's mod that he did.......

3583_54506.JPG
 
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