Help: Rapid Led Setup

quiksilverchin

New member
Hey guys, I am going to retrofit a 6 Gallon nanocube with rapid leds. I know they make a 8 gallon kit but I was looking for some advice in terms of color combinations and which leds. I know I don't need a lot of leds and I want to be able to run the blues and whites separate.

Thanks in advance.
 
I think you need to provide more info. Fish only? Softies? SPS? Do you want blue and white only or full spectrum?

I personally prefer the plain Royal Blue and Cool Whites ... but there are a lot of people who disagree with me.

You may also want to post a budget you are trying to work with.


I think if you are able to have more specific questions then you will get more responses.
 
I wanted to be able to grow a mixed reef. I was thinking blue, royal blue, and white. Leaving out the other colors. Possibly a UV if it was needed. Trying to stay under $120 I have a heatsink already and fans so that shouldn't be a problem.
 
More channels just gets pricey. Go with RB and the nano Driver, and NW with a Nano Driver. If cost is not an issue add a few UV on a nano Driver. Reds and greens are just a bad idea.
 
Sounds like you already know what you want color wise...and you even have most of the equipment...are you just looking for a number and driver suggestion then?

not sure where the reds and greens came into play but while we're on the topic I love em...
 
I am just a bit confused in terms of the different leds such as the Xp-g and the xpg2. Does anyone suggest going with cool whites and neutral?

And yeah i was curious about the driver but I will look into the nano driver now.
 
XP-G2 is just a little more output than the XP-G

I have always ran 50:50 CW:NW on my smaller builds. My newest build has a channel of 14 CW, a channel of 14 High CRI NW, and a channel of 14 High CRI WW.
 
I would do 3 RB, 1UV, a NW, and a CW. The UV will max @ 700mA. So that will affect max current on your RB/UV string.

UV just makes corals "pop" more in short.
 
I would suggest using something like 3 violets (420-430nm no lower) 2 Royal blue, 1 blue, 1 luxeon 5000k 80 CRI, and one luxeon 2700k 90CRI model.

gives a great 14000k look with intense fluorescent pop. the 90cri chip is needed to bring out the reds of many soft corals that only reflect red light. Otherwise they look kind of pale. 700mA max on the string due to the violets but you'll not need full power on a 6 gallon.

I found the high CRI chips absolutely necessary to get my colt corals and purple montipora to look right compared to under fluorescent light.
 
I would suggest using something like 3 violets (420-430nm no lower) 2 Royal blue, 1 blue, 1 luxeon 5000k 80 CRI, and one luxeon 2700k 90CRI model.

gives a great 14000k look with intense fluorescent pop. the 90cri chip is needed to bring out the reds of many soft corals that only reflect red light. Otherwise they look kind of pale. 700mA max on the string due to the violets but you'll not need full power on a 6 gallon.

I found the high CRI chips absolutely necessary to get my colt corals and purple montipora to look right compared to under fluorescent light.

Look at the Nichia NW they are very nice for CRI. I am using 14 on my 180 since they are 90+. I also am using 14 Cree WW binned at 90+ CRI. Lots of deep red rendition and no red diodes in my fixture.
 
CRI stands for color rendering index. It is the rating given to show how well a LED will render color based on a standard. Nichia makes a Neutral white led. I bought mine from cutter but the non RC approved website LED "group" purchase sells them as well.
 
Im going to try and stick with the Rapid Led Solderless Leds. I know how to solder but it is just so much easier and cleaner to go solderless. I am now thinking 3 royals, 1 blue, 2 cool, 1 neutral, and 1 UV. I am more interested in growth vs color. I was planning on using the nano dimmable drivers with the dimmer unless someone knows of an alternate option that can do the same. Or a cheaper driver
 
Im going to try and stick with the Rapid Led Solderless Leds. I know how to solder but it is just so much easier and cleaner to go solderless. I am now thinking 3 royals, 1 blue, 2 cool, 1 neutral, and 1 UV. I am more interested in growth vs color. I was planning on using the nano dimmable drivers with the dimmer unless someone knows of an alternate option that can do the same. Or a cheaper driver

Personally I can't stand the solderless LEDs. Wire Management can be tricky and trying to eliminate excess leads to pushing LEDs around. If you can solder it you can cut the wire to fit. But just my opinion.
 
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