Help with Algae problem

[TimV]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6916277#post6916277 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SoonerFan732
I do have two spare bulbs to replace to oldest bulbs (6500K/10000K) perhaps I will switch them out and see how that goes.

I have also added some attachments to my maxi-jets that rotate (driven by the flow output of the powerhead) to alternate the flow a few weeks ago. Maybe those things reduced the flow in the tank quite a bit more than I thought (Doesn't cyano like lower flow?)

So why does the algae appear to recede in the evening? After about 7 PM it is hardly noticable (however the green algae under the red shows up more, but the red is hardly noticable). Those pictures don't really show the difference as well as seeing it in person. If it looked like it did later in the evening it really wouldn't bother me, but in the afternoon it looks like a forest waving around.

Thansk!

Kevin

During the day it is undergoing photosynthesis with a byproduct being oxygen. THe oxygen bubbles accumulate and makes the mass expand. When the lights go out, the oxygen dissipates and the mass appears to get smaller.

Lights may be part of it but in my experience I've never been able to definitively figure out why I occasionally get it. For me, it has nothing to do with lighting as it will occur with new bulbs as much as with old bulbs. It will only populate a few different rocks and only those rocks and it has nothing to do with flow. So I'll treat it and it will go away for 6-9 months.

Erythromycin won't have any detrimental effects on your tank if used properly.

T

 

[mskohl]

a lot of times when it's related to flow, it's on the bottom. But when it's on the rock, like it was for me, it could be a build up of detritus and just gunk in the crevices of the rock.

I would try one of the additives to reduce it. Then, what isn't killed off in the 48 hrs (or whatever is recommended) I would syphon out as best you could. Then, just before your water change, I would take the turkey baster and force water into the crevices on the rock and watch the crud fly out. My hermits like to eat this stuff, but they always leave crumbs.

 

[SoonerFan732]

If I use the Maracyn how do I use it properly?

The instructions I found say:

Instructions:
Add one tablet per 20 gallons of water and repeat every 24 hours for 5 days. Repeat this 5 day treatment only once if needed. Treat for 5 days even if visable signs disappear. May be used in combination with other Mardel saltwater products.

Is this how you use it? Do you place the tablets directly in the tank or what?

Thanks!

 

[TimV]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6916571#post6916571 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SoonerFan732
If I use the Maracyn how do I use it properly?

The instructions I found say:

Instructions:
Add one tablet per 20 gallons of water and repeat every 24 hours for 5 days. Repeat this 5 day treatment only once if needed. Treat for 5 days even if visable signs disappear. May be used in combination with other Mardel saltwater products.

Is this how you use it? Do you place the tablets directly in the tank or what?

Thanks!

You can predissolve it if you choose, but you don't have to. Turn your skimmer off as it will foam like crazy if you don't

T

 

[SoonerFan732]

Thanks Tim!

How long does it usually take you to see results?

I see there is a freshwater and saltwater version of Maracyn, do you know what the difference (beside the fact that they say use one for freshwater and one for saltwater)?

 

[dugg]

IMO, it is a lighting issue. When i used to use PC lights, i had this stuff pretty regular. PC lights only have about an 8 month life span at best, and i have had them last as little as 2 months before changing spectrum and causing this problem. It doesn't even seem to matter the brand of bulb. I would change the bulbs out and increase the flow for a few weeks. Don't stir the stuff around by hand or with brushes, just change the lights and increase the flow. All of those bubbles are filled with millions of spores, just waiting for you to stir them into the water collum. You can syphon them, but don't try syphoning through a filter to save the water, the spores will go right through the filter.

I fought this problem over and over for years, and i am convinced it is the changing spectrum of the PC lights that causes it. I haven't had even one episode of this since i tossed the PC lights and went to MH. That is proof positive to me that it is 100% the lights that cause it. The coralife and hellolights bulbs seem to be the worst ones for being unpredictable on life span.

 

[TimV]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6916927#post6916927 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SoonerFan732
Thanks Tim!

How long does it usually take you to see results?

I see there is a freshwater and saltwater version of Maracyn, do you know what the difference (beside the fact that they say use one for freshwater and one for saltwater)?

Honestly, I didn't know there was a difference. Whatever you do, just look at the package and make sure that it is only erythromycin. You don't necessarily have to add as much as the directions tell you to in order to get good results. You are simply trying to raise the concentration in the water column, not the fish. If you go way too high, then you'll start affecting other bacteria. I usually dose about a quarter of what the directions state. If it doesn't completely clear it up, you can always dose again in a few days.

You'll see a noticable difference in hours. Within a day or two, it will all be gone. The important thing is to go ahead and try to cut down on feeding and other issues with your tank rather than to always rely upon crutches. Kill it but reduce nutrient overload so it doesn't come back.

When you turn your skimmer back on it is going to foam like crazy so be prepared. You might try running carbon after a few days.

T

PS looking at the boxes for saltwater or freshwater maracyn, it looks like the saltwater has extra vitamins. It probably also is a lower dosage since erythromycin will be non-ionized at the pH of a saltwater tank and thus will be more effective.

 

[SoonerFan732]

I went home at lunch and tried to see how easily the red algae comes off as suggested, it comes off quite easily. The spot I tested looked clean after I wiped it with my finger.

Thanks for everyone's help so far!

Kevin

 

[dugg]

I went home at lunch and tried to see how easily the red algae comes off as suggested, it comes off quite easily. The spot I tested looked clean after I wiped it with my finger.

Congratulations, you have now seeded your tank for an even bigger outbreak!! NEVER rub, wipe, scrub, or touch that stuff in the tank, either syphon it out, or take the rocks out to a bucket of fresh salt water to scrub it off there. Wiping it off inside the tank only disperses 10 billion spores into the water collum to settle into thier new homes in the rocks and grow.

 

[SoonerFan732]

Dugg,

It was a tiny spot. . Its all over the tank already. There aren't many places with out it now. We aren't talking about a small outbreak here. Someone asked how it easily it comes of the rocks so I found out (for ID purposes). I think proper ID is the most important thing at this point and there was some question by others as to its correct ID. Thanks!

 

[Russ Braaten]

You said this is the second outbreak after the diatom (Brown algae). This is common. It is a phase that you have to get through and I tried everything until I realized it was a phase.

Since you seem to be doing everything right, do as Paul mentioned. Get a toothbrush and use a small hose to siphon the stuff out of the system. If you have a refugium, make some sort of screen that you can place at the end of the siphon that sits in the sump. Then brush and suck away the junk. Some of it will suck right off.

Do this every few days and in time you will have removed the algae and what ever nutrient that is causing it. Once stable you should not have any problems.

 

[SoonerFan732]

I will siphon what I can out soon.

Tim,

I added the Maracyn (about 1/4 of the recommended dose). The water is fairly cloudly now and all the corals contracted (mostly soft corals) except the GSP, the anemones expelled most of their water and my pH has dropped to 7.8. The snails, crabs, and fish seem unaffected so far. The mushrooms and ricordia look particularly stressed (most of there mouths look different than normal). The other corals look like they do when the lights are off.

Are these normal responses? Should I continue with this method or turn the skimmer back on and do some water changes?

Thanks!

 

[SoonerFan732]

Thanks everyone for all your input on this matter! This is a excellent club for help with saltwater aquariums.

The cyanobacteria is gone. Thanks Tim for the tip on Maracyn. The Maracyn cleared it up completely within one day. I have performed a few water changes since then trying to get it out of the system. Most corals have opened back up and the anemones are back to normal. My Hammer, Torch, and Candycane corals still haven't fully recovered, but they seem to be better then when I added the Maracyn. The Maracyn really drives the skimmer crazy. It took about a 60% water change before I could even run it without the collection cup filling up in one minute.

Now I only have green algae left. I need to find something that will eat it up. I have a ton of snails, hermits, and one Yellow Tang but the green algae still grows well. The green algae isn't nearly and nasty as the Cyanobacteria though.

 

[scott0615]

Keep in mind you put a "bandage" on the underlying problem. The antibiotic you used killed off the nuisance algae, however it did not solve the problem [typically dissolved nutrients/organics]. I would recommend overdoing chemical filtration to strip your water of organics. Purigen, Polyfilters, a good grade of carbon, and a phosphate remover to start. Frequent water changes would also be beneficial. You don't want this stuff to keep coming back..

 

[SoonerFan732]

Thanks Scott! I have added a refugium and cleaned off most off the rocks. I think part of the problem has been that I haven't been removing the stuff that has collected on the rocks. I have been using carbon for the past couple of months (I wasn't before). I have also increased the flow inside the main display and changed my old PC bulbs. My skimmer seems to be working better lately also. I am also going to keep up with my water changes as I have neglected them somewhat.

Hopefully I am removing the source, only time will tell.

Thanks!

 

[mskohl]

sounds like you've addressed the usuall culprits and zapped the cyano. I hope it's gone for good. It is a relief to not have to deal with it, isn't it?

 

[SoonerFan732]

Yeah, the cyano was covering everything. Its so much better now. I hope it stays away.

Now I just need to scrub this green algae off the rocks and hopefully the clean up crew and refugium will keep it to an acceptable level.

 

[SoonerFan732]

Well the Cyanobacteria is coming back already. I really need to find the source.

What else can I do here?

I have changed all the bulbs, increased flow, my skimmer is working much better now, I added a refugium, I have performed several water changes and removed debris from the rocks.

 

[VCoo71]

you may just need to give the chaeto some time....or you could also try runnning a phosphate removing type of media

you said your using ro/di do you have a tds meter?

nothing good happens quick in a reeftank....doh!

charlie

 

[SoonerFan732]

That's the truth!

I do have a TDS meter and I checked the RO/DI water a week or two ago and it still read 0. My phosphates are still at 0.1 PPM. I have never seen a different reading on my test kit though in 8 months. Perhaps I should get another test kit.

I was just hoping the cyano wouldn't come back so quickly to give me some time to allow the refugium to start working properly. It grows so quickly. I imagine in a week it will be as bad as it was before. It was everywhere.

I should add some phosphate removing media, what do you recommend?