Help with anthias

Buddy55

New member
See the photos and tell me what you think this is. She had it from shipping and I just continued with ttm because there was not much i could do. Now they are in the cycled qt. They are all three not eating much but they are eating. Is this fin rot of some sort? So bacterial treatment needed?

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Looks like a large parasite. Try a formalin bath and see how it reacts.
Another option would be to try to remove it mechanically.

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I'm about to begin my rounds of prazi. I'll just go ahead and begin. I have never done baths before and I have never liked the idea. But I guess if push comes to shove. Anyone else have input? I really didn't think it would be a parasite. After all the ttm it's still on.

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Can anyone else comment? I started an antibiotic. It's definitely a "rotting" of the fin, only the lower half. I believe however the antibiotics are only gram positive. It says it will take care of fin rot but they all do. I might try to get some updated pictures.
This fish and all the others are eating frozen food no problem. The other fish look just fine and act normal.


I'm almost tempted to set up a separate qt tank just for this fish so I'm not treating the other fish. Do you think that treating antibiotic is harmful to the others?

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Did you get the fish from live aquaria /divers den? We have been seeing a lot of anthias with Uronema coming in....my Waitei anthias had it. If that rot spreads and starts to get larger, and then you see some of the scales peel away, and it looks like like a small hole....well then Uronema is a possibility.

I had dosed Seachem Metro, but since it acts so quickly, I wasn't able to save the fish. All three of my anthias died in a few days. I didn't have formalin on hand at the time, but I will now start doing formalin dips either before the TTM, or right after the TTM before they hit my QT. I'm no expert, but just sharing my experience. Keep a close eye on it, and maybe look into buying Metro and Formalin to keep on hand just in case.

Just an FYI...my Anthias were always eating during the time until they died.
 
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Well I just read on uronema and I don't see any of the symptoms or signs in my fish that were referenced. No paleness, no skin/scale peeling, no redness. This fish has had this for almost 20 days now and I went through TTM first. Now im on antibiotics. Metro is on the way because my bottle was solid as a rock. It's got me worried now about the other fish including a $60 acanthurus pyroferous. I'm going to set up a second qt container tonight.

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Well I just read on uronema and I don't see any of the symptoms or signs in my fish that were referenced. No paleness, no skin/scale peeling, no redness. This fish has had this for almost 20 days now and I went through TTM first. Now im on antibiotics. Metro is on the way because my bottle was solid as a rock. It's got me worried now about the other fish including a $60 acanthurus pyroferous. I'm going to set up a second qt container tonight.

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That's good...one disease you can rule out. Keep us posted.
 
A little update. I moved her to a separate quarantine tank with all the fixings. I'll dose the kanoplex again. I took some pictures in a specimen container. It seems to have progressed or changed since starting the antibiotics. Not for the better either. The pictures don't exactly show but it's dark slightly into the body as well. I don't have high hopes.

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Please if you have any input let me know. I will try to feed metro when I get it and I'm thinking about dosing prazi with the kanoplex slowly.

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Did you get the fish from live aquaria /divers den? We have been seeing a lot of anthias with Uronema coming in....my Waitei anthias had it. If that rot spreads and starts to get larger, and then you see some of the scales peel away, and it looks like like a small hole....well then Uronema is a possibility.

I had dosed Seachem Metro, but since it acts so quickly, I wasn't able to save the fish. All three of my anthias died in a few days. I didn't have formalin on hand at the time, but I will now start doing formalin dips either before the TTM, or right after the TTM before they hit my QT. I'm no expert, but just sharing my experience. Keep a close eye on it, and maybe look into buying Metro and Formalin to keep on hand just in case.

Just an FYI...my Anthias were always eating during the time until they died.

I'm having a similar experience. Dispar from LA, fin rot. Treated with Kanaplex but it died a day later. So fast. Three Dispar from DD. One has developed tail rot. Treated with Kanaplex last night. Other two look ok for now. Will do a water change and retreat Kanaplex. Hopefully I bought some time and the Kanaplex works.
 
Tail only for me. Nothing visible on the body. A fast moving dissolve of the tail.
Bloody to white or blackish brown like in the pictures above?
Fin rot is usually treatable with broadband antibiotics.
Saprolegia an the like are rather hard to cure if at all.

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Hmmm, I've never heard of Saproglenia being a problem in marine fish. We actually use salt to treat it in freshwater fish.
 
Well, it's not necessarily actual Saprolegia but something very similar. Noga has listed a few of these and some are not uncommon with saltwater fish. Unfortunately most of them are difficult to treat, if there is a treatment at all. If it is only on a fin, I would just cut it off generously before it reaches the body. Once it is on the body the outlook is rather dire.

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The fish in the original post died a few days after my last post. The rot appeared to move into the body. I had her separated and she eventually became listless and pale and probably went into shock. The other two are almost done with qt.

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It looked like something bacterial to me. It could have been Uronema or Vibrio. Not all cases manifest in the same way. Cutting off the fin might have helped, but body wounds are hard to treat in some cases. I'm sorry to hear that you lost them.
 
The black discoloration rather points towards a "fungal" cause. In saltwater it's not really fungal but likely more along the lines of parasitic "algae". It's not overly common but infected fish come in with new shipments from time to time.
Bad water quality and a compromised immune system (stress) in combination with small wounds seem to promote it.
Treatment is often impossible so fish with this should be isolated.
Good water quality and nutritious food - ideally with the addition of an immune booster - may help fish to recover from early stages..
If the infection is on a fin and has not yet reached the body, I would try to cut the infected part out. Afterwards use some thinned down Lugol's solution on a Q-tip to disinfect the cut.

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