Help with Flex PVC please

[Newreeflady]

Ok, so i've got pretty much everything and i'm ready to start plumbing my tank...

But, first thing I read is to "Square pipe" and to "Deburr and bevel"

Does this mean I need special saws and such to do this job? I bought the pvc hand cutter, but it doesn't leave it quite square at the ends. And, this stuff is thick, i'm not sure how I could trim it properly. Is it a must that it bottom out perfectly? What should I do?

Also, I need to cut a piece of 3/8" acrylic but don't really have the equipment to do so. Can I just clamp this to my stairs and jigsaw it?

I wish I had a house with a garage and a table or circ saw, but I don't. Can I still do this project? I have 4 days to get this done, school starts Monday...

**forgot to mention, we're working with 1" flexpvc here.

:/
Thanks!
Angela.

 

[tacocat]

As long as the cut is clean, and there are no burrs, you should be fine. PVC cutters are the best things to use on any type of PVC.

Acrylic, you got me there. Perhaps you can fill us in on wht you are trying to accomplish so we can be of greater assistance.

 

[tuberider]

I use PVC cutters and try to keep it as square as possible. I've never cut acrylic with a jigsaw, I'd think it would heat up alot leading to crazing.

 

[magma01]

pvc cutter makes it really easy to cut flex pvc. don't worry about it. just cut it, prime and glue with flex pvc glue.

I tried cutting 1/4" acrylic long time ago with a jigsaw. Not very good at all. Acrylic just starts melting.

 

[GreshamH]

You can use a jigsaw, but you need the right blade, and need to use the right speed.

 

[Newreeflady]

Ok, so the consensus is not to worry too much about having the ends perfectly squared off, just use the pvc cutter. As for the glue, I know that is debatable. I am going to use purple primer and Christy's red hot which says it can be used for both. . .

Ugh, looks like I have to walk back to the acrylic store with my tail between my legs asking them to cut this little thing for $20. It just seems like such a rip off. I just want a 2" x 3" cut out on one side of the acrylic, sounds small, why so costly?

Thanks,
Angela.

 

[nasotang]

If you clamp the acrylic between 2 sheets of wood it cuts a lot easier since the acrylic wont woble back and forth with the blade or get melted to it. You will need a specific blade and also use the right speed as Gresham said. If you have access to a circular saw it's a lot easier.

Are you making an overflow box with the acrylic?

 

[Newreeflady]

Hi again,

The blades I bought are Bosch u-shank 10 TPI "engineered for clean cuts in wood and plastic materials."

The acrylic is actually being used for a shelf for my CL pump. It will sit above my sump and so I would like to have a hole cut into it for the plumbing line from my return to come out. The acrylic is very strong, I might even be able to get away with just cutting a larger section out so that I only need to make two cuts: one from each side.

Thanks,
Angela

 

[nasotang]

I'd probably still clamp it between two boards and drill some starter holes so your jigsaw blade will be able to fit. You can drill 4 holes at the corners to guide your cuts.

Are you going to place a neoprene or other mat to help dampen the pump vibrations?

gl

 

[Newreeflady]

Hi naso,

That's a great idea to drill holes at the 4 corners! So, you suggest clamping it between two boards and cutting the plastic with the wood, then? What type of boards? I would need to purchase these.

Yes, I was planning on mousepads since I have access to thousands

Thanks!
Angela

 

[tacocat]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8006126#post8006126 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Newreeflady
Hi naso,

That's a great idea to drill holes at the 4 corners! So, you suggest clamping it between two boards and cutting the plastic with the wood, then? What type of boards? I would need to purchase these.

Yes, I was planning on mousepads since I have access to thousands

Thanks!
Angela

Whatever you do, please be careful. If you have any doubts or it seems unsafe, $20 is cheaper than a finger.

I think the wood trick would be best.

 

[nasotang]

Scrap pieces of wood that'll just help keep the acrylic from wobbling back and forth and getting glued to your blade should work. The boards can help keep the acrylic from chipping.

Agreed, if you dont feel comfortable doing it, I'd pay the $20. You'll want to be careful and at the least wear some protective goggles.

haha, you can mouse pad the whole inside of you stand as a noise dampener!!!

 

[nasotang]

yea, cut the acrylic with the wood.

 

[dantodd]

You can also use a spiral cutting bit in a dremel-style tool. These work pretty well and are less likely to craze. Since this is a hidden item and you don't need it to be prefectly square for glueing so have a go at it. Even a little melting won't hurt anything.

 

[tacocat]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8006483#post8006483 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dantodd
You can also use a spiral cutting bit in a dremel-style tool. These work pretty well and are less likely to craze. Since this is a hidden item and you don't need it to be prefectly square for glueing so have a go at it. Even a little melting won't hurt anything.

My ninja. I thought I was the only one who did that.

 

[dantodd]

I now have a router which I have been using mostly but the dremel still works well.

 

[fishnfst]

I was gluing a bunch of clear pvc last year while assembling some co2 reactors I wanted just to see where the glue holds the joint.. It only holds about 1/16th of an inch at the very bottom of the cup and at the mouth of the fitting... That is where the seal is... The ends don't have to be perfectly square but deburring the outside edge makes a big difference.. The glue is funneled between the pipe and the cup of the fitting instead of being scraped..

I've glued thousands of joints some deburred some not.. The only ones that I have ever had leak were ones that I was taking the shortcut and not deburring... Make sure you bottom the pipe out in the fitting as well and give it a quarter turn then hold for 20 or so seconds so it does not slip back out at all....

If you aren't 'confident in cutting the acrylic just go get a cut piece at tap and call it good... They might even have a piece close to what you need in the scrap bin for $1.50 a pound...

 

[Newreeflady]

Hi again,

Thanks for all of the helpful tips. I do have a dremel, I will see if I have that bit for it. And, yes, a little melting won't bother me too much, it isn't a show piece.

fishnfst, I haven't seen any need for deburring on the flex stuff, the cuts are clean, just not square.

As for the hard joints, I shouldn't have to worry about fittings, right? I didn't cut them, presumably they shouldn't need deburring and beveling.

Thanks,
Angela

 

[Kinetic]

angela, I have a table saw (no table at the moment) and a miter saw (not set up yet, brand new) I can lend you. Let me know =)

 

[mcurl98]

Dremel with a cutting wheel will work fine if the piece isn't going to be on display. It will melt quite a bit along the cut line but much of the melt will peel right off after you're done cutting. It will smell a bit while cutting and use safety glasses. It won't end up looking pretty but it will be the right size. I think this is a safer route than trying to use a jig saw unless you sandwich the acrylic between boards. If you use a jig, look for a blade with as many teeth possible and with as little as offset as possible (the points of the blades sticking out to the sides). If you haven't cut acrylic before, make some test cuts outside your real cut line until you get the hang of it. You shouldn't need to debur if you are using a PVC cutter-just prime before you glue, twist and hold for 30 seconds and you'll never have a leak.