Help with new 125 gallon build

I believe you have a column of air pocket trapped inside the right drain which keeps water from entering. Until you get rid of the air pocket flow will not occur. Make sure you don't submerse the PVC deeper than 3/4" below surface. Find some way to extract the air from within the PVC and replace with some water. The weight of the water column inside the pipe must overcome the air pocket so the air can be pushed out. Can you temporarily drain the water out above the water level in the sump?

Simon, you are absolutely right. I emptied out the sump like you said and started the pump back and got rid of the air and now its practically silent and the backup is dry! :beer:

here is a video:
http://s1273.beta.photobucket.com/user/tassod/media/IMG_0058_zpsa9a555b2.mp4.html
 
tassod, great job! there is still a little fluctuation of the water level in the left cornerflo but as long as the level does not go below the opening sucking air into the pipe you are okay. you can tweak the gate valve a litte to keep the water level more steady. Congratulations!
 
tassod, great job! there is still a little fluctuation of the water level in the left cornerflo but as long as the level does not go below the opening sucking air into the pipe you are okay. you can tweak the gate valve a litte to keep the water level more steady. Congratulations!

yup i figure i can regulate the left corner once i get my gate valve. So far so good! Thank you so much for all your help to date! Trust me, i will need more of it as i move on!
 
Does anyone have any suggestions or pictures of their RO DI water setup / saltwater mixing setup I can get an idea from? I just picked up 2 Brute 32 gallon containers and trying to figure out a good practical method.
 
My electrician is coming over today to run a dedicated circuit for the system. I will also be leveling my cabinet and putting the tank on it. I will try to post pics later when i'm done.

I need the same thing done by an electrician. How much did he charge for this?
 
I need the same thing done by an electrician. How much did he charge for this?

My electrician who is also a good friend of mine charged me $125 for his labor. For the work that he did I would imagine it would be double this amount if it were anyone else based on some quotes i've gotten in the past for similar work.
 
Leak detected

Leak detected

Ok, after letting the system run for 48hrs i've detected a very small leak on the left drain at the joint where the pvc fits into the bulkhead. How can i fix this without having to take the whole bulkhead apart and getting a new one? Here is a pic:

leak_zpsc03ac9c0.jpg


Can i just put some glue there and let dry?
 
1. Is it coming through the PVC cement part or from the top of the bulkhead?
2. Is this over the sump?
3. Is there ever any pressure on that point?
 
1. Is it coming through the PVC cement part or from the top of the bulkhead?
2. Is this over the sump?
3. Is there ever any pressure on that point?


1. Through the PVC cement, top of bulkhead is dry.
2. It is not over the sump, so it does leak on the floor of the stand
3. There shouldn't be any pressure, pipe is well supported with straps.
 
1. Through the PVC cement, top of bulkhead is dry.
2. It is not over the sump, so it does leak on the floor of the stand
3. There shouldn't be any pressure, pipe is well supported with straps.

I meant water pressure. Is it just gravity, or could it be turned off? If it can be turned off at the bottom, I'd be a little worried about just putting some cement on it.
 
I meant water pressure. Is it just gravity, or could it be turned off? If it can be turned off at the bottom, I'd be a little worried about just putting some cement on it.

I do have a gate valve on it when it goes into the sump to control flow, so yes it can be turned off.
 
If it is a small leak, like a drop in a few min, I would put some clear silicone on it after it is dry. A small leak sometime will seal itself.
 
If it is a small leak, like a drop in a few min, I would put some clear silicone on it after it is dry. A small leak sometime will seal itself.

Ok, i will put some silicone on it and hopefully that should take care of it. BTW Simon, i put that gate valve on it and it really did the trick, system is practically silent!
 
Personally I'd look at it this way. This part is something that should stay solid for years. Either I do it right with PVC cement, and never have to worry about it. Or it is done with silicone/cement on the outside and I have to keep thinking about it.
 
Personally I'd look at it this way. This part is something that should stay solid for years. Either I do it right with PVC cement, and never have to worry about it. Or it is done with silicone/cement on the outside and I have to keep thinking about it.

Ok you convinced me, plus i tested the joint with the silicone, no good..it was getting wet so here is the new bulkhead and fittings:

IMG_0079_zps3a10326d.jpg


Also since i was fixing this, i also fixed the overflow height to bring it higher:

IMG_0080_zps4fc42c4c.jpg
 
I know the instructions say sooner, but from what I understand silicone really needs a week to cure. Longer if there's going to be a lot of pressure on it.
 
This time I used All purpose cement which stated on the bottle is good for PVC, CPVC and ABS. I'm going to do another leak test tomorrow.
 
Doing my leak test today and going well. Got a question though and Simon maybe you can answer this, my new left corner flow which I have raised is flowing to0 much into the fuge. I can close down the flow with the valve but I am afraid the water level will rise over the air hole:

image_zps9b3816f4.jpg


Is it ok if it does that? What can I do? this is how much its flowing:

image_zps8f87777a.jpg
 
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Your water level in the left drain looks like mine, about 1/2" below the top of the elbow. I don't see the air hole in the picture. If you worry about the air hole being covered by water, you can insert a 1/2" long 3/16" tubing into the airhole to extend it above the water level. The key is the backup drain in your right drain should be lower than the top of the left drain air hole. This way the water level will never be high enough to cover the air hole.

Yes, I think there is too much water flowing thru the fuge judging from the picture. Can you increase the flow thru the reactors and UV sterilizer? This will reduce the flow from the DT to the fuge.
 
Okay got it thanks Simon I actually only have the flow going through the UV sterilizer right now the valves on the reactors are completely closed because its still tap water
 
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