The photos are the remains of a Scopas Tang. It seemed to be fine yesterday, feeding in the sand bed; I assumed algae. Then found it this morning like this. The other fish seem fine. It might be too far disintegrated but wondering if anybody can diagnose. Thanks
Help with Scopas Tang
- Thread starter Cdentata
- Start date
Sorry for the loss. Can't make a reliable diagnosis here from the photos. Might be able to shed some light on possibilities if you want to share a lot more information. Need to know at least:
Size and type of aquarium
How old is the aquarium
Are there pods in the aquarium
All living things in the system
Where did this fish come from
How long have you had this fish
Do you use a quarantine procedure on new marine life
What was this fish eating that you fed, if it was eating any food you provided
Water quality
Picking at the substrate might be a sign that the fish was eating some benthic creatures like pods.
Thanks for taking the time to ask questions.
55g, I don’t know what you mean by type but there are a few corals, a CUC, starfish, scallop. All have been in the tank for a couple months or more. I have a sump with Socks, Skimmer, and BioBeads.
The aquarium is just over 2 years old.
No pods
This one was bought by itself from a local shop about 3 weeks ago. It is the only purchase made going back a couple months. I did not quarantine. Other fish seem fine - 2 clowns (have had for 2 years, Yellow Tail Damsel (have had for 1 year), Royal Gramma and Neon Goby (have had for 6 weeks).
I had only been feeding it brine shrimp, same as the other fish
Water quality meets BRS’s parameters and have been stable for the last couple months, other than fluctuations in Phosphate but that is now under control
I bought the Tang to help with a film algae that was growing on the glass and rocks. The algae problem is much improved, fortunately.
I saw that Tangs are susceptible to Black Itch and am wondering if I should treat with Chloroquine or Prazipro in case the parasite is in the tank. But I think I’ll just keep an eye on the other fish.
55g, I don’t know what you mean by type but there are a few corals, a CUC, starfish, scallop. All have been in the tank for a couple months or more. I have a sump with Socks, Skimmer, and BioBeads.
The aquarium is just over 2 years old.
No pods
This one was bought by itself from a local shop about 3 weeks ago. It is the only purchase made going back a couple months. I did not quarantine. Other fish seem fine - 2 clowns (have had for 2 years, Yellow Tail Damsel (have had for 1 year), Royal Gramma and Neon Goby (have had for 6 weeks).
I had only been feeding it brine shrimp, same as the other fish
Water quality meets BRS’s parameters and have been stable for the last couple months, other than fluctuations in Phosphate but that is now under control
I bought the Tang to help with a film algae that was growing on the glass and rocks. The algae problem is much improved, fortunately.
I saw that Tangs are susceptible to Black Itch and am wondering if I should treat with Chloroquine or Prazipro in case the parasite is in the tank. But I think I’ll just keep an eye on the other fish.
I'm glad you chose to provide additional information. Some concerns I note:
No pods - An established reef type aquarium should have pods. Either the living rock or living substrate should have brought in some, or it might be wise to 'seed' the tank with store-bought pods. A healthy pod population would be a good sign. Maybe 'sneak' up on the aquarium after dark and lights out and with a small light check the substrate closely. Use a magnifying glass and be sure you see nothing. Pods are beneficial in many ways. Many will eat other pods, micro algae, and left over fish foods. Some chew on fish poop, too.
Film algae - Not a normal marine life in an established aquarium of 2+ years old. This 'film' might not be algae but could be other micro life such as diatoms. Worth taking a closer look with a microscope if you have one or access to one. What color is this film? How long has it been there? Is the aquarium class or plastic?
No quarantine - Definitely you want to move towards a quarantine protocol for ALL marine life. ALL marine life should be quarantined before introduction to the display tank/system. Worth reading posts on good quarantine procedures. Unfortunately so many wild caught marine life forms are coming through the system that the probability of them coming with disease is too high to risk putting them into a display tank/system without a proper quarantine. Today I would even suggest an automatic copper treatment and deworming treatment for all fish in quarantine. This prophylactic treatment is a good practice.
Tang diseases - Actually the biggest parasite for tangs is Cryptocaryon irritans (Marine Ich). At this point in time, I would perform no treatment to the tank/system. Without a clear diagnosis you would just be 'shooting in the dark.' Remember that treatments are stressful to marine life.
Brine shrimp - As griss pointed out -- not good. Read the referenced nutrition/feeding post. Young tangs usually start off being omnivores. As they mature they begin swimming long distances in the reef and turn more and more into strict herbivores.
Fish retailer - Many local fish stores 'hide' fish diseases by adding copper and/or treatment chemicals to their fish tanks. Another good reason to quarantine fish. Did you see the fish eating in the retailer's tank? What was it eating? How long did the retailer have the fish before you bought it? Do you know if the fish store adds copper or other treatments to their fish tanks? Ask. Most retailers will 'hold' a fish for you. You want to avoid emotional or fast decisions to take a marine life home. Trust me. I know it's hard to resist this. If the fish is going to die or get ill you want it to happen in the retailer's tank. A hold of two weeks on a new arrival is good. Always make sure you see the fish eating and what it is eating before you even consider buying it.
System types - There are fish only with live rock (FOWLR) systems; reef systems (mix of reef life); FO without live rock; live substrates; and variations to these.
If you'd take the above as strong suggestions, you may have better success in the future. Good luck.
wvned
Well-known member
What you posted just seems to be an image.
Maybe this will work: the Fish Nutrition document. Once on that page click the Download button and decide what folder to put it in.
You're welcome.
Although diagnosing a fish after it has passed is usually impossible by this medium, there are many factors which can/may cause a new fish to perish. The best an aquarist can do is to be pro-active and armed with as much knowledge as possible.
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