help...zoa bacterial infections?

[iapo]

Hi,
I've one colony who is closed. The polips are closed and brown covered with a thin film who leave on simple water spraying (not all but only someone).
I've tried to dip in RO water. After that only one polips looks better and it's fully open.
Have you some advice?

 

[Joshporksandwic]

Have you tried putting them in an area with more flow?

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[650-IS350]

read into Hydrogen peroxide dips.

 

[A. Grandis]

If the problem is algae...
+1 for Hydrogen Peroxide dip.

Sometimes bacterial infection could cause brown films.
In that case would be better to use something like Lugo's solution for the dips.

Pictures could help others to help you.

Grandis.

 

[iapo]

thanks so much...guys...
I don't know if the problem is algae....I think more probable bacterial film.
About the flow I can say that in my tank the flow it was ever too strong....with tunze 6025....
Do you think it will be a good solutions without risk to improve the problem?
Here a pic photo..

 

[septicdeath]

Any luck beating this? I'm going to look into the hydro dip mentioned, as I have a like situation, my polyps have brown algae growing over them, using a turkey baster I can blast it off 65%, those that were ble to be blasted have started to open, those that te algae is a little more stuck too, stay closed and a lot are starting to melt away. Mostly watermelons, my purple people eaters are 100% gone, no where to be found. My hulks and she hulks and more costly zoo's are barely making it, weird, they are all over the tank in different spots, and all just started freaking out when changing to natural sea water and what I think is calothrix, not really gonna blame scripts water, too many locals use it, I may have been too close to the rarer Southern California rain downpour effecting water quality? Anyways, the 200+ colony watermelons is at top and easy to pull, so I'm going to start their, and to the op, would be curious to hear your results, as you picture looks awfully familiar, with some polyps melted into stubs, some still green, some with easily dislodedged brown algae on them...

Thanks....

 

[mrbigshot]

I would look into either erythromycin or kanamycin if it were me, I dont error on the side of caution with infections though. the past iodine was used with marginal success. reciently coral rx has has been used with good suscess rates. its brown jelly disease, common on Lps but infects zoas and other softys sometimes. its bacterial in nature so a good anibiotic dip should help.

zoas are very Hardy. spending low tide above water and prefering to live in nasty dirty water. its takes a lot to kill them.

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[A. Grandis]

I would look into either erythromycin or kanamycin if it were me, I dont error on the side of caution with infections though. the past iodine was used with marginal success. reciently coral rx has has been used with good suscess rates. its brown jelly disease, common on Lps but infects zoas and other softys sometimes. its bacterial in nature so a good anibiotic dip should help.

zoas are very Hardy. spending low tide above water and prefering to live in nasty dirty water. its takes a lot to kill them.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Xparent Blue Tapatalk 2

Sorry, but I'll need to disagree with you: zoas don't "prefer to live in nasty dirty water" and it doesn't "take a lot to kill them". Those are old sayings and proven wrong. The best proof of that are those SENS (super low nutrient systems) with pale SPS that we see around with wonderful zoas in it. It has more to it then just the old dirty water idea actually is. They can survive in harsh situations better than corals, but they don't actually prefer that type of environment.

About the Brown Jelly disease... I've never seen or heard of anyone that had brown jelly on zoas. Aren't you be mistaken? Did you had that happen before?
Yes, Erythromycin would probably work on brown jelly on corals. I didn't know about Kanamycin.

How do you apply erythromycin for zoas?
What to get and where to find?

How do you apply Kanamycin and what type are you referring to, please?
Where do you get it from?

Thanks in advance.

Grandis.

 

[A. Grandis]

Any luck beating this? I'm going to look into the hydro dip mentioned, as I have a like situation, my polyps have brown algae growing over them, using a turkey baster I can blast it off 65%, those that were ble to be blasted have started to open, those that te algae is a little more stuck too, stay closed and a lot are starting to melt away. Mostly watermelons, my purple people eaters are 100% gone, no where to be found. My hulks and she hulks and more costly zoo's are barely making it, weird, they are all over the tank in different spots, and all just started freaking out when changing to natural sea water and what I think is calothrix, not really gonna blame scripts water, too many locals use it, I may have been too close to the rarer Southern California rain downpour effecting water quality? Anyways, the 200+ colony watermelons is at top and easy to pull, so I'm going to start their, and to the op, would be curious to hear your results, as you picture looks awfully familiar, with some polyps melted into stubs, some still green, some with easily dislodedged brown algae on them...

Thanks....

You need to deal with your water chemistry and light to get rid of unwanted algae. Hydrogen peroxide is just to give the polyps a relief, or to avoid introducing the algae into the system. I hardly use it and when I do it would be the last thing to try. Best ratio would be 1/4 Hydrogen peroxide to 3/4 of water to start IMO. Too much could damage or even kill the polyps.

Deal first with the water chemistry/ remove excess algae with tweezers, if needed, and they will probably be fine. No sense to dip if the algae is still a problem in the system.

Grandis.