Help ???

Got it hooked up at home !!!! YEAH Calibrated a new pH probe perfectly. Not sure what ORP does for me - it shows 261 ( will have to research this) , the temp probe is about 1.5 degrees off compared to 2 other sources. Can that be calibrated or is that far enough off to suggest a new temp probe? Now to read manual(s) more and begin to figure out the programming of the breakout, the DC8's ,etc. Feel like I am a complete rookie again........new challenges are good for you -right?!?!
 
Congrats! If you're interested in checking it from the internet, check out dyndns.org. It's a little more complicated but you can check your controller status and control your outlets from anywhere you have internet access. There is even an iphone app for aquanotes. Its cool being able to flick your iphone to turn on and off your lights.
 
well- since I refuse, so far anyhow, to pay for a smart phone at all, I doubt I will be using that soon. Currently I have no way of keeping the AC3 hooked up- but this summer will be putting up a new build ( 180 ) in a new addition that will definitely have the ability to have the AC3 hooked up to the internet 24/7. Then you can check the tank at work, on vacation , etc. also control top offs remotely, etc. correct? This is a "dry run" so to speak for the real tank - so will learn how to do Top off ( kalk water) - try to create random/wave motion with the pumps, control lights, monitor PH/ORP and have fans come on if the temp gets over 81.
 
Yup. If you have WiFi you can actually buy a gaming adapter which will allow you to plug the ethernet cable directly into it and connect wirelessly to your router. I have one from NetGear. It's only $60 or so. It's real easy to program.

Go Pens BTW! I was in Pittsburgh at the Sharks - Pens game in February.
 
That is so funny Russ- I read that exact article a few minutes after I posted- ya NO wonder why I did not know what ORP does for me. The Wi/Fi idea seems to be a good option- thanks yechien. I am doing that exact thing for my direct TV received this weekend. I am in an 50+ year old home and it is tough to run new wiring for internet, cable, etc. If that goes well I may just do that for the AC3. The Pens did well considering the injuries- worried that Crosby may not ever return. I am in the health care field and based on his Symptoms ( even just the ones that the public knows about) he may be smart to stay away - forever. Brain injuries are weird- some people take the trauma and are not much effected or it is delayed dysfunction - others never fully recover and symptoms are immediate.
 
yeah, its too bad... At least he's already accomplished everything anybody would dream of in a career. The cup, olympic gold, etc.
 
No thoughts on the temp probe being over 1 degree off ? NO biggie to buy a new one - but can the old one be calibrated and will it be accurate or not? I think it is about 2 years old. Seems to be steady ( no weird jumps) and moving up /down with the other temp reading sources - staying 1.3- 1.5 degrees below them.
 
You can calibrate it under Temp Setup:Temp Calibration menu. You can adjust the temperature up. Look at page 24 in the owner's manual.
 
OK- Ya I saw that- but was wondering if I am that far off will it be accurate after the calibration - based on others experiences.
 
I think my external thermometer was 1.5 degrees above what the temp probe was. I don't think it matters if the actual temperature is higher or lower. It's more about keeping the daily temperature stable. If you look at your season table, you'll see that the reef will naturally fluctuate between 72 degrees and 80 degrees throughout the year. I would actually keep your temperature lower than higher. The fish will metabolize faster at higher temperatures. (more poop)
 
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Ya, I understand about consistency of the temp of tank, but I will be programming a fan to turn on at 80 degrees - so if the temp probe is off by 1.5 then I will have to program the DC8 outlet to start fan at 78.5 degrees. Or would it be better to calibrate temp probe up to "real" temp since it is reading low by about 1.5 degrees.
 
either way. more importantly, i would say you should start your fan at lower than 80 degrees so temperature doesn't exceed it. fans will work to some degree but they typically only lower the temperature by about 2-3 degrees and they don't work instantly. I would add an on statement at 78, and off statement at 77.5. As a precaution, you can add a light off statement at 82 degrees. Here's my code:

If Temp < 74.9 Then HET ON
If Temp > 75.0 Then HET OFF
If Temp > 76.0 Then FA1 ON
If Temp < 75.0 Then FA1 OFF
If Temp > 76.5 Then FA2 ON
If Temp < 75.5 Then FA2 OFF
If Temp > 77.0 Then FA3 ON
If Temp < 75.9 Then FA3 OFF
If Time > 01:00 Then ALM OFF
If Temp < 73.5 Then ALM ON
If Temp > 82.5 Then ALM ON
If Temp > 82.0 Then LT1 OFF
If Temp > 82.5 Then LT2 OFF
If Temp > 82.5 Then LT3 OFF
 
yehchien said:
either way. more importantly, i would say you should start your fan at lower than 80 degrees so temperature doesn't exceed it. fans will work to some degree but they typically only lower the temperature by about 2-3 degrees and they don't work instantly. I would add an on statement at 78, and off statement at 77.5. As a precaution, you can add a light off statement at 82 degrees. Here's my code:

If Temp < 74.9 Then HET ON
If Temp > 75.0 Then HET OFF
If Temp > 76.0 Then FA1 ON
If Temp < 75.0 Then FA1 OFF
If Temp > 76.5 Then FA2 ON
If Temp < 75.5 Then FA2 OFF
If Temp > 77.0 Then FA3 ON
If Temp < 75.9 Then FA3 OFF
If Time > 01:00 Then ALM OFF
If Temp < 73.5 Then ALM ON
If Temp > 82.5 Then ALM ON
If Temp > 82.0 Then LT1 OFF
If Temp > 82.5 Then LT2 OFF
If Temp > 82.5 Then LT3 OFF
Click to expand...

You can do a similar thing using seasonal temp variation. Read the manual, you would have to adapt the code above slightly, but the idea is the same.

Also, if you measured your tank using 100 different thermometers you would come up with almost 100 different values. Defining an absolute value for 78.2 F is harder than you would think.

I would not worry at all about 1.5 F difference, you really don't know what the "TRUE" temperature is. The most important thing is avoiding extremes. If you started a discussion on the "optimal" temperature you would find little agreement. But, MOST will agree that 70 F is too cold and 88 F is too hot for what 99% of us are doing.

You will know if/when the thermometer goes bad. The temps will read something completely off and there will be crazy temp spikes recorded that never happened. It will read something like 29 F. The temp probe you have is a newer and improved version from the batch that was going bad.

Additionally, after I had one temp probe go bad I put in a safety line of code that would shut down the heater and sound an alarm if a temp was recorded as being WAY too low, I think I used 60 F. Thinking that if the my tank was 60 F everything was probably already dead and restarting the heater would not help much. Alternatively, it might keep my heater from cooking my tank.
 
OK will calibrate the temp probe up 1.0 degrees ( allowing possibility my other 2 temp sources are a little high) and set the fan to come on at 78 - I do currently allow tank to get to 82 degrees before I plug in the fan - I hate the fan noise. Can I program to have no fan from 7-10 PM each night= time when I am in the room watching TV and watching the tank?
 
i think you can program that with a if time then off statement. I believe that if time takes precedence over if temp.
 
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