Help!!!

ifoundnemo

New member
ok in the last 6 months i am averaging one dead fish a month...
none of the fish show any kind of illness.

they just lay on the bottom of the tank and them the crabs jump em....

after talking to the LFS it sound like a parasite problem. whats the best way to rid my self of this problem..the LFS said adding a UV sterializer would help but i dont have that much $$$...but would adding a MH light help? does it not have UV in it?

i have the sick fish in a Q tank for now...do i need to make it hypo or hyper salt?

what meds do i need to add to the tank?
 
Sounds like there is definitely a problem. First, MH will do nothing for the prevention of disease, especially in fish.

The most important thing to do is to establish whether your systems parameters are in line. To us figure out the problem, what are the following levels:

Ammonia
Nitrite
Nitrate
Salinity
Temperature
pH
 
i dont have the numbers in front of me this very sec...im at work they are at home (hope the boss is not reading this)
but from what i rember they were all in check with what the test kit calles "normal" al but the nitrates they were high around 10 PPM.
i did one 10 gal water change yesterday and i am going to do one tomorow (cant do it tonight i am using what salt water i have left to set up my Q tank.
 
as of today...one damsel (i know i know hes going away as soon as i get a chance) one angel...aprox 14 turbos...and 7 little crabs...there was one buterfly but i took him out this AM he is in the Q tank
 
Hmmm, this is a difficult dilemma. Another possibility would be a predatory hitchhiker. Perhaps a mantis?

If it is indeed parasitic in nature, then you will need to remove all the fish and QT them. Observe them for signs of illness and treat accordingly. Then leave the tank fallow for 6-8 weeks and any parasites should die off without a host.
 
Possibilities: 1. a predator like a mantis
2. 'stray voltage', something leaking electricity.
3. water params.
4. a catastrophic ich infection that's only in gills [assuming there is no telltale mark.]

I'd try 3. as the easiest to eliminate. Tests that just give you a range or a color aren't that accurate, being subjective, but you can use the 3-part strip tests to see if you have ANY ammonia, nitrate, or nitrite. If you do, do daily water changes [20%] to lower it, until it is near 0 as you can possibly get. If you have filter media, suspect it. YOur salinity should be 1.025 [use a refractometer, absolutely essential if you're going to use hyposalinity [hypo means lower] because you have to be spot-on and a swing-arm hydrometer is just too inaccurate. Your ph [use a meter] should be 8.2-8.3.
 
I've never heard any conclusive evidence that keeping the tank water at a slight potential have any negative effects on the livestock ("stray voltage"). It will happen, and you can't prevent it, and its hard to properly test for it (sticking a multimeter into a brine solution will lead to an electrochemical effect on the probes for instance).

Your problem could be an internal parasite. What it is - no idea. Not sure if you've monitored this, but what does your "fish poop" look like? If its stringy or doesn't seem to ever come out, my vote would be parasite. I can't recommend a treatment option, but something like Maracyn 2 or Interceptor may work. This needs to be done in a QT tank as both will kill non-fish.
 
Never a good idea to just start dosing your tank. 10 nitrate is high for a fairly established tank. Monitor all of your fish closely, if they all appear healthy with no sores or swelling then I would go with poor water quality.. Becareful with fish stores that try to push products with out asking about your water quaility or providing free solutions
 
Stray voltage normally doesnt effect fish it will just shock you when you touch the water since you become a ground
 
i dont think its atray voltage because i have never been shocked... i am going to go get a better test kit today, and we will start with that...i have my buterfly in a 10 gal Q tank, i am just glad he made it through the night, he is still eating. as far as salt levels , 1.025 i know thats for the main tank but what about for a Q tank...should i make it a little lower?
 
You could run lower salinity in the QT tank. However, if you choose to do so, make sure you drop the levels very slowly so the fish do not go into shock.

Also, what are you using to measure your salinity?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8487850#post8487850 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by serpentman
You could run lower salinity in the QT tank. However, if you choose to do so, make sure you drop the levels very slowly so the fish do not go into shock.

Also, what are you using to measure your salinity?



Salt levels can be dropped rather quickly..If doing hypo, it is best to drop the SG to 1.009 in 48-72 hours.

IfoundNemo,
At this point, you really need a diagnosis. You need to do a lot of reading on ich and other diseases and how to treat them. Unfortunately, the many different opinions you get on these boards may only end up confusing you. There are many articles on ich out there..
How old is your tank BTW? What fish have you lost so far? Are you using a RO/DI or treated tap water?
 
my tank is almost a year old...i have lost a foxface, a diamond goby, 4 damsels, i am usind RO/di water from the LFS untill i get a rodi unit
 
the buterfly seems to be doing very well in the Q tank...i just put him in there last night...and he is swiming around and eating....YEA...i have not treated him with anything other than the water is hypo...
 
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