Help!!!
- Thread starter The Saltwater Kid
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TitusvileSurfer
New member
There are 2 distinct brands of Photoshop. Elements is the "consumer" version with all the big stuff. CS is the "professional" version with all the little bells and whistles and buttons and doohickies added. Elements is like 1/6 of the price but will probably give someone like you 5/6 of the power. I do prefer CS though.
I'll budge on the picture stats thing. Google "EXIF viewer".
I'll budge on the picture stats thing. Google "EXIF viewer".
TitusvileSurfer
New member
Quick Recap:
Shutter speed is your main concern, as it is the cause of your problems. Multiply your focal length (i.e. 50mm) by 5.6 and use that as your longest shutter speed.
Aperture is your 2nd concern, your small sensor actually benefits you in some ways here. Our large sensor DSLR cameras have very narrow depth of fields at wide apertures (i.e. f/2.8) but your depth of field or DOF will be much wider. So you can go all the way down to f/2.8 and still have an entire coral in focus. This is why high end point and shoot cameras make excellent Macro machines. The SX10 IS apparently shines in this area above most all others. On the flip side, you will have trouble producing nice bokeh (making the background out of focus on purpose).
I want you to set your camera to "Tv". This is also known as shutter speed priority. You should have a click wheel to change the shutter speed which is measured in fractions of a second, 1/100, 1/200, 1/400, ect. Look at your focal range and multiply by 5.6, lets say you are shooting at 50mm. Click your wheel until your shutter speed is 1/300.
You will see another number which will change as you go. It looks like f/5.6. This is your aperture. Don't worry too much about your aperture right now, since your small sensor will produce a wide DOF anyway. A smaller aperture number is actually bigger. f/2.8 is "bigger" than f/4, f/4 is "bigger" than f/5.6, ect. We can worry more about aperture once you figure out shutter speed.
If the aperture goes all the way to the biggest your camera can go, f/2.8, you will have to turn up your ISO. Always start your ISO at 100. This will result in the clearest photograph with none of the salt and pepper sprinkled everywhere. If your aperture goes all the way down to f/2.8 but you still need more shutter speed, turn up your ISO as needed. Salt and pepper is better than a sloppy blurry mess. Once you get your tripod in you should have a much easier time with all of this.
I know you can't use your tripod yet so just experiment with hand holding. If your tank is too dark to take much of a picture, go into your back yard and shoot squirrels. Keep the BB gun in the house, your going to shoot them with your new camera KEEPING IN MIND everything we have learned Shutter Speed, Aperture, ISO, focal length. Think about what settings you are using and try to get it right the first time. If you can take a picture of a squirrel, you can take a picture of a coral.
Now to make things a little easier, I know you love the fact you have 20x optical zoom. That is great, but think about the shutter speeds you could successfully use at...say...5mm. You would only *need* a shutter speed of 1/30, but 1/100 would be even better. Try to take some shots of your tank at the WIDE end, forget about telephoto until you can use the short end well. You also have that fancy Ultrasonic (whatever that means) Image Stabilizer. I want you to turn it off. Figure out what you are doing without it for now. Once you know whats up, it will be a nice luxury and I'll explain the math behind it and what shutter speeds you can get away with and all of that great stuff-another time. While your learning pretend it doesn't exist.
Bring the camera up to your face and look through the little box. I'm sure you'll shake a lot less when the camera isn't 3 feet in front of your face as you look at a TV screen. These shutter speed figures are all amusing you have a good hold of the camera, it makes a huge difference.
This "Quick Recap" was much longer than I originally anticipated so I'll cut myself short and await your response - and hopefully results!
Oh and I just noticed, Happy 1000th post to me! On my 2 year member anniversary no less.
Shutter speed is your main concern, as it is the cause of your problems. Multiply your focal length (i.e. 50mm) by 5.6 and use that as your longest shutter speed.
Aperture is your 2nd concern, your small sensor actually benefits you in some ways here. Our large sensor DSLR cameras have very narrow depth of fields at wide apertures (i.e. f/2.8) but your depth of field or DOF will be much wider. So you can go all the way down to f/2.8 and still have an entire coral in focus. This is why high end point and shoot cameras make excellent Macro machines. The SX10 IS apparently shines in this area above most all others. On the flip side, you will have trouble producing nice bokeh (making the background out of focus on purpose).
I want you to set your camera to "Tv". This is also known as shutter speed priority. You should have a click wheel to change the shutter speed which is measured in fractions of a second, 1/100, 1/200, 1/400, ect. Look at your focal range and multiply by 5.6, lets say you are shooting at 50mm. Click your wheel until your shutter speed is 1/300.
You will see another number which will change as you go. It looks like f/5.6. This is your aperture. Don't worry too much about your aperture right now, since your small sensor will produce a wide DOF anyway. A smaller aperture number is actually bigger. f/2.8 is "bigger" than f/4, f/4 is "bigger" than f/5.6, ect. We can worry more about aperture once you figure out shutter speed.
If the aperture goes all the way to the biggest your camera can go, f/2.8, you will have to turn up your ISO. Always start your ISO at 100. This will result in the clearest photograph with none of the salt and pepper sprinkled everywhere. If your aperture goes all the way down to f/2.8 but you still need more shutter speed, turn up your ISO as needed. Salt and pepper is better than a sloppy blurry mess. Once you get your tripod in you should have a much easier time with all of this.
I know you can't use your tripod yet so just experiment with hand holding. If your tank is too dark to take much of a picture, go into your back yard and shoot squirrels. Keep the BB gun in the house, your going to shoot them with your new camera KEEPING IN MIND everything we have learned Shutter Speed, Aperture, ISO, focal length. Think about what settings you are using and try to get it right the first time. If you can take a picture of a squirrel, you can take a picture of a coral.
Now to make things a little easier, I know you love the fact you have 20x optical zoom. That is great, but think about the shutter speeds you could successfully use at...say...5mm. You would only *need* a shutter speed of 1/30, but 1/100 would be even better. Try to take some shots of your tank at the WIDE end, forget about telephoto until you can use the short end well. You also have that fancy Ultrasonic (whatever that means) Image Stabilizer. I want you to turn it off. Figure out what you are doing without it for now. Once you know whats up, it will be a nice luxury and I'll explain the math behind it and what shutter speeds you can get away with and all of that great stuff-another time. While your learning pretend it doesn't exist.
Bring the camera up to your face and look through the little box. I'm sure you'll shake a lot less when the camera isn't 3 feet in front of your face as you look at a TV screen. These shutter speed figures are all amusing you have a good hold of the camera, it makes a huge difference.
This "Quick Recap" was much longer than I originally anticipated so I'll cut myself short and await your response - and hopefully results!
Oh and I just noticed, Happy 1000th post to me! On my 2 year member anniversary no less.
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Digital cameras save detailed information about the photograph in a file called the EXIF. On many photo hosting sites, when you store a photograph, it also stores the EXIF information. You can read it either by downloading the picture into a copy of Photoshop (or similar programme) or through an add-on to your browser. I have an add-on (called EXIF Viewer) which lets me right-click on a photo and review the EXIF data. There are other programmes around which can do the same thing.
The Saltwater Kid
New member
Will do. I'll try and snap some pics tonight and post. Thanks for all the help!!! Oh, if by chance I don't post any pics tonight please don't think I've bailed on you...I am married and have other responsibilities 
but I will try.
but I will try.BTW, the different comments from Titusville and me about depth of field relate to the focal length you used for the photos. Ffom the EXIF data, it looks like the sample photos you posted were at or close to the maximum zoom (75-100mm). At that zoom, your depth of field is quite small. Titusville is suggesting using much less zoom (even as low as 5mm which will give a small coral image), which gives a bigger depth of field and thus makes focusing less crucial and lets more of the coral be in focus at the same time. This is a good starting point.
Even if you can't attach your camera to the tripod, try resting it on the tripod head. This will help stabilize the camera. Also, experiment with the IS. It's not that hard to use and will increase your ability to take pictures at slower shutter speeds. Try both ways and see how it turns out.
Does the LCD screen have a magnification option which you can use with manual focus (e.g. a portion of the LCD image is zoomed so you can fine-tune the focus)? If so, that is very useful for getting the focus right. With my P&S, the viewfinder is useless for manual focusing - it has no diopter adjustment and is always out of focus. I have to use the LCD screen. This is quite different from dSLR cameras.
Even if you can't attach your camera to the tripod, try resting it on the tripod head. This will help stabilize the camera. Also, experiment with the IS. It's not that hard to use and will increase your ability to take pictures at slower shutter speeds. Try both ways and see how it turns out.
Does the LCD screen have a magnification option which you can use with manual focus (e.g. a portion of the LCD image is zoomed so you can fine-tune the focus)? If so, that is very useful for getting the focus right. With my P&S, the viewfinder is useless for manual focusing - it has no diopter adjustment and is always out of focus. I have to use the LCD screen. This is quite different from dSLR cameras.
The Saltwater Kid
New member
Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to get a picture tonight. We got done dinner late and then when I went to try some of what I learned the darn batteries were dead in the camera so we charged them and put them back in and it still wouldn't take a pic because the memory card was full so we erased some pics from the memory card and put it in Tv mode with ISO 100 and a shutter speed of 1/1600 because the lens was zoomed out to 300mm but when it took the picture it came out completely black...couls barely see a vague outline of the corals but nothing else. What went wrong? You shouldn't need to use a flash in Tv mode should you? I've always read where you should never use a flash when taking pics of your tank because of the glare off the glass. I'll try again tomorrow but this camera is REALLY frustrating me!!! So far for a camera that is supposedly so much better then my old 6mp PowerShot S3is I think it's all hype and I actually prefer my old camera. Hopefully something will turn things around with this camera but if it doesn't soon it's going back to Best Buy with a very unsatisfactory rating from me.
I know that Titusville and I are providing conflicting suggestions 
. When you tried the Tv approach. most likely, there was insufficient light in the tank for take a photo at 1/1600 sec. With the Tv setting, the camera has to choose how wide to open the lens (the aperture) but is limited in the maximum aperture it can choose by the physical design of the camera. Hence, choosing too fast a shutter speed leads to very underexposed pictures, just like you found. The camera was probably flashing a warning somewhere that you had insufficient light.
To get started, I suggest that you try ISO 400, Av (set the aperture to f8) and no flash (on camera flash is a problem with tanks). With these settings, the camera will be able to choose a shutter speed to give a correctly exposed picture - it may be too slow to give a clear picture but at least you will get a picture. Try using manual focus too. If you post the results of this experiment back to us here, we will know what exposure you need and can suggest some other combinations to try which will help to sharpen it up. For example, a picture take with 1/30 sec at f8 will also be properly exposed at 1/60 sec and f5.6.
Patience, just like with a reef tank, will get you there although I know how frustrating it can get sometimes.
. When you tried the Tv approach. most likely, there was insufficient light in the tank for take a photo at 1/1600 sec. With the Tv setting, the camera has to choose how wide to open the lens (the aperture) but is limited in the maximum aperture it can choose by the physical design of the camera. Hence, choosing too fast a shutter speed leads to very underexposed pictures, just like you found. The camera was probably flashing a warning somewhere that you had insufficient light.To get started, I suggest that you try ISO 400, Av (set the aperture to f8) and no flash (on camera flash is a problem with tanks). With these settings, the camera will be able to choose a shutter speed to give a correctly exposed picture - it may be too slow to give a clear picture but at least you will get a picture. Try using manual focus too. If you post the results of this experiment back to us here, we will know what exposure you need and can suggest some other combinations to try which will help to sharpen it up. For example, a picture take with 1/30 sec at f8 will also be properly exposed at 1/60 sec and f5.6.
Patience, just like with a reef tank, will get you there although I know how frustrating it can get sometimes.
TitusvileSurfer
New member
Yeah no kidding…it’s a little frustrating. You are trying to treat this camera as a DSLR but it isn’t. All of the settings you have memorized are thrown out of the window here. There are still your basic Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO…but they are all blown out of proportion with this camera. Your advice is great for someone with a 50D, but this isn’t a 50D.<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13742078#post13742078 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nickb
I know that Titusville and I are providing conflicting suggestions
First off, the SX10 IS’s lens set to 100mm isn’t anything like the 100mm Macro lenses you are used to. It has specifically been and purposefully designed to imitate this one:
*not my photo, daughter, or (in my dreams) lens
Pictured above is the Canon 500mm f/4. The SX10 IS’s 100mm lens actually “zooms in†(notice the quotation marks…very important), even more than the lens pictured. The SX10 IS “imitates†going all the way out to 560mm. Now taking a picture of an aquarium with a lens like that is ridiculous. Taking a picture of an aquarium with the SX10 IS set to 100mm is just as ridiculous. He gets all the reach and the high shutter speed demands right along with it. This is why I told the OP to have a minimum of 1/600 when zooming in like that.
Now the SX10 IS’s lens doesn’t look anything like that mammoth beast of beige glory pictured above because it isn’t. This is still just a 100mm lens, and a rather small one at that. So, when he is zoomed all the way out to “560mmâ€Â, he still has the aperture properties of a 100mm lens. Well what about the wide end? Zoomed all the way out to 5mm, the SX10 IS imitates what you know as 28mm. It still has the aperture properties of a 5mm lens though. So, f/2.8 to the SX10 IS is like f/11 for us. f/8 for the SX10 IS is like f/50. I am making these numbers up but you get the idea.
What is the cause of all this? Go back to page 1 and count how many times I said the word “Image Sensorâ€Â. Hold on I’ll count. THIRTEEN TIMES! His sensor is 5.6 times smaller than 35mm film! This explains why the SX10 IS is able to “zoom in†as much as it can. It sacrificed just about everything else we hold sacred for this ability. I can imagine your DSLR has either a 1.6x (Canon) or 1.5x (Nikon) crop factor. Well the SX10 IS has a 5.6x crop factor! It also means everything you learned about shutter speed, and aperture, and ISO, and focal length, and depth of field, and most of the other stuff goes out the window. Everything is different here.
Here is what the SX10 IS does to get all this “zoom powerâ€Â.
I took this picture at an air show last weekend. It was taken at 200mm and as you can see I didn’t have anywhere near enough reach.
The SX10 IS would have seen the same image (pretend I took it at 100mm) but on EVERY image it takes what you see and cuts the edges off. I used a grid overlay to try to make this picture 5 times bigger (my own camera had a 1.6 crop factor). So you get this:
That is the image I would have gotten with about a 1000mm lens (accept with the quality of the original). So in essence you could consider the SX10 IS an all time 5.6x digital zoom with 100mm lens. Now the XS10 IS is till a 10mp camera, and it crams very one of those mega pixels into that tiny little space. High numbers of megapixels can actually hurt you here. This is, for one instance, why the ISO disturbance mentioned earlier is so bad. Now if a manufacturer backs off and says "you know, you would probably get an even better image with less mega pixles", they wouldn't be able to sell cameras because the other guys would add more. The OP said it himself "I really expected more coming from a 6mp camera to a 10mp camera". Now I'm not saying this camera would be better with less megapixel, but there is a point (not far away) where that will be the case. Much more importiant than the number of megapixles is the quality of those megapixles. When you cram 10,000,000 of them into a little box compared to a full frame box like the big picture...the quality really goes down fast. My camera is also 10mp but each individual pixle's quality is vastly superior.
Now to the OP, if you are planning on taking pictures of airplanes with this camera keep it. If you just want to take pictures of your family and tank I think the G10 would be a much better option. The amount of zoom this camera has for a reef tank is so beyond overkill I can’t even explain it. Set your lens to 18mm and you have what almost every photographer on this forum uses for their tanks. A couple of the Nikon guys go all the way out to what you know as 26mm. A guy I know has a lustful 180mm Macro so that would be like 32mm to you. Beyond that you’re the only example I can think of. Some of us are lucky enough to own lenses like the one pictured with the little girl above, but unless you’re talking about great white sharks feeding on seals 300 yards off the beach, I don’t think any of them have ever been used to shoot sea life.
-Rant Over-
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I think that you are missing the point of my posts and our conflicting advice. I know that this isn't a dSLR. I am not suggesting using the full zoom on the tank. What I am talking about is the choice of exposure parameters: Tv vs Av. Setting exposure using Tv, especially with a very high shutter speed and low ISO, requires aperture settings which are not available on the camera: based on his original exposure parameters (1/160, f5.7, ISO 800), switching to 1/1600 and ISO 100 would require an aperture of around f/0.6. Since the camera only goes to f2.8, using 1/1600 and ISO100 will lead to the photo being under exposed by about 4 stops which explains the black image he got.
My advice was designed to ensure that he got properly exposed images to provide a starting point for improving the images. Av gives more control over that than Tv since, whatever aperture you set, the camera can always find a shutter speed which will give a correctly exposed picture (barring taking picture of the sun). It may be blurred with camera motion but it will be correctly exposed and can give a starting point to get better images.
I understand why you suggested at least 1/600 (based on the effective focal length). But, 1/600 and ISO 100 would still require f1.4 which the camera doesn't offer. In order to keep the image stable at 100mm (560mm effective) handheld, the image stabilization system can help (which is why I suggested turning it on). Using a tripod is clearly better, which is why I suggested resting the camera on the top of the tripod until the head is fixed, or using less zoom capacity.
I suggest that the OP try:
Av
ISO 400
a range of apertures from f2.8 to f5.7
no more than a 40mm effective zoom
balance the camera on the tripod head and/or turn on IS
manual focusing using the LCD screen.
BTW, here are sample photos taken with the SX10 IS: Excellent images, even at maximum zoom: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=599085
My advice was designed to ensure that he got properly exposed images to provide a starting point for improving the images. Av gives more control over that than Tv since, whatever aperture you set, the camera can always find a shutter speed which will give a correctly exposed picture (barring taking picture of the sun). It may be blurred with camera motion but it will be correctly exposed and can give a starting point to get better images.
I understand why you suggested at least 1/600 (based on the effective focal length). But, 1/600 and ISO 100 would still require f1.4 which the camera doesn't offer. In order to keep the image stable at 100mm (560mm effective) handheld, the image stabilization system can help (which is why I suggested turning it on). Using a tripod is clearly better, which is why I suggested resting the camera on the top of the tripod until the head is fixed, or using less zoom capacity.
I suggest that the OP try:
Av
ISO 400
a range of apertures from f2.8 to f5.7
no more than a 40mm effective zoom
balance the camera on the tripod head and/or turn on IS
manual focusing using the LCD screen.
BTW, here are sample photos taken with the SX10 IS: Excellent images, even at maximum zoom: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=599085
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First off, the SX10 IS’s lens set to 100mm isn’t anything like the 100mm Macro lenses you are used to. It has specifically been and purposefully designed to imitate this one:
*not my photo, daughter, or (in my dreams) lens
Pictured above is the Canon 500mm f/4. [/B]
Nothing can compare to the real thing, there are no imitations when it comes to this.
TitusvileSurfer
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13743783#post13743783 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ahuxman58
Nothing can compare to the real thing, there are no imitations when it comes to this.
I wanted the SX10 IS's intentions to be a make believe 500 f/4 clear, as opposed to your basic 100mm lens. I never said it does a great job at it though!
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TitusvileSurfer
New member
I am trying to TEACH the OP the basics of photography here. He must learn them if he expects to have any success with this camera OR the G10. You can't teach someone photography in 1 sitting. So, I write a miniature book explaining the who what where why how's. Then in 2 or 3 lines you say, 'naw that other guy doesn't know what he's talking about, use your image stabilizer.' 'Forget Tv mode. You don't even know what Aperture *is* much less what it does, but forget about shutter speed and manage aperture instead.'
Then I'm sitting here thinking of all that time I spent to lay the groundwork for this kid so that he can actually do it for himself, and before he reads what I said you contradict me. Now I'm not saying that I don't make mistakes. I am *not* saying to hold back from correcting me. But when I am trying to teach a dog to sit, don't say 'aww that's useless' and push him to jump through hoops before he even has a chance to try to sit on command. He isn't ready to jump through hoops yet.
...If you have been following along you will know why that is wrong on so many levels. A lot of the other stuff confused or ruffled my feathers on a personal level, but the above is just plain wrong. This statement fueled many of my speeches on the mechanics of this camera as I realized the OP wasn't the only one in limbo.
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TitusvileSurfer
New member
*Don't use telephoto for your reef tank*!! 300mm is for taking pictures of football players 50 yards away. You shouldn't need to go much beyond 28mm with your camera. This gives you "160mm" in DSLR terms, which is close to what all the DSLR guys are using. Shoot for shutter speeds around 200-300. If "2.8" starts flashing (that is how my Canon works anyway), then you have too much shutter speed for the amount of light and need more ISO or more light. Now your intended subject is the only part that needs to be well lit, as I am hopefully about to demonstrate with a space shuttle in 5 hours or so.
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Titusville, can we tone this down? I am not saying anything to undermine what you are saying. I'm not sure that RC is the place for a course in photography but I am not saying that your information is wrong. It isn't. We just have different objectives. My suggestions are aimed at trying to get slightly better pictures to maintain enthusiasm and interest. Can Tv shooting work well - of course. Might it provide a good long term learning approach -yes. But, with Tv, you need to understand that the camera can not handle all choices of shutter speed and still produce properly exposed images (that setting needs more user input to monitor exposure settings). With Av, you will at least get a properly exposed picture which you can work with to make it better. And, IS is easy to use on P&S cameras and will improve the quality of his images if he can't use a tripod. Turning off IS and trying to use ISO/shutter speed combinations which can't give reasonable exposures seems counter-productive.
The suggestion I gave about using 1/15-1/30 is not wrong. The slow shutter speed would be fine on a tripod. The smaller aperture setting will increase depth of field. ISO 400 will give less noise than ISO800. There is nothing wrong with what I said and I don't need an instruction book on basic photography skills.
I understand about sensor cropping and its effect on effective focal length and depth of field. However, sensor cropping does not affect exposure settings: if f/11 and 1/30 gives a good exposure on a full frame Canon dSLR, it will also do so on this P&S camera with the much smaller sensor. And, before making this statement, I checked with several on-line sources as well as several experts on photography on another web site.
Please, keep the personal issues out of this. We are both providing reasonable advice to the OP, different but reasonable. If the OP needs a basic course in exposure, etc., then your material will provide him with long term benefits. My suggestions may help with the short term issue of getting passable images to help him decide whether to keep the camera and to maintain his interest in taking tank photos. Why can't we leave it at that?
As far as Iam concerned, continuing this discussion isn't productive. The OP has been given good advice and information from all of us. It's up to him to decided what to do next.
The suggestion I gave about using 1/15-1/30 is not wrong. The slow shutter speed would be fine on a tripod. The smaller aperture setting will increase depth of field. ISO 400 will give less noise than ISO800. There is nothing wrong with what I said and I don't need an instruction book on basic photography skills.
I understand about sensor cropping and its effect on effective focal length and depth of field. However, sensor cropping does not affect exposure settings: if f/11 and 1/30 gives a good exposure on a full frame Canon dSLR, it will also do so on this P&S camera with the much smaller sensor. And, before making this statement, I checked with several on-line sources as well as several experts on photography on another web site.
Please, keep the personal issues out of this. We are both providing reasonable advice to the OP, different but reasonable. If the OP needs a basic course in exposure, etc., then your material will provide him with long term benefits. My suggestions may help with the short term issue of getting passable images to help him decide whether to keep the camera and to maintain his interest in taking tank photos. Why can't we leave it at that?
As far as Iam concerned, continuing this discussion isn't productive. The OP has been given good advice and information from all of us. It's up to him to decided what to do next.
TitusvileSurfer
New member
My advice was designed to ensure that he knew what shutter speed is, why it is causing his problems, and eventually how not only to combat his old nemesis, but to mold and use it to his advantage. Sure you can use Av and get any old aperture which you don't understand. This in-turn gives you any old shutter speed which you still don't understand. Now you have the original images posted above and thoughts of "I'm going to write Best Buy a nasty letter explaining their product sucks because I don't know how to use it".
I told the OP not to use image stabilization because I want him to think about what he is doing and learn from it. IS would make that unlikely as the outcome of his figures would be different. If he doesn't understand the basics, then he will just get the exact same results from above over and over and over...IS or not. to use IS effectively you have to understand shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. IS is kind of sort of but not really a 4th (separate) member of that group. Making productive use of IS is just dumb luck unless you already know the other 3. I don't WANT IS to help him right now. That is like giving a 5 year old a calculator so that he can add 3+7. Sure an answer of "10" will pop up on the screen but the kid will have no idea what just happened. So down the road when the question is "X + 3 = 10"...the kid looks for an "X" button on the calculator.
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TitusvileSurfer
New member
It was specifically said that the OP did not have a tripod, and at that time probably wouldn't have one indefinitely. Those shutter speeds with out a tripod are insane, as illustrated earlier. Even with a tripod image quality would probably suffer as all tripods are not made equal.
The exposure will still be the same. The picture will be bright, blurry, soupy, and all around yucky. Enter the OP's posted photos. He is still using the same aperture, but everything you know about DOF changes. He is still using the same shutter speed, but everything you know about camera shake changes. He is still using the same ISO, but most of the stuff you know about noise changes.
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TitusvileSurfer
New member
Yes Sir
