Hex Tank Build

[n2585722]

I decided to add a build thread here. This tank has been up and running for 7 years now, but there are not a lot of hex tank builds. When I started the build back in 2008 LED lighting was fairly new to the hobby. I wanted to try them out and had an old Oceanic Hex tank that was a similar depth to my 110 gallon tank that was not in use. I decided to do a DIY LED lighting setup. So I needed a canopy to use it with the tank. I built a canopy and it turned out so well I decided to also build a matching stand and something behind the tank to hide anything hanging from the back. That was a request from my better half along with not seeing the edge of the sand or the top of the water. So the stand had to go up past the sand level to hide it and the canopy had to drop down below the top of the tank to hide the water surface from the side of the tank. I think for the most part I was able to accomplish this with what I came up with. Below is a photo of the tank after it was setup for a little over 3 months. At this point the rocks are still just piled up in the tank.

Below are a couple of photo of the canopy and stand during construction. The back cabinet and back cover were not finished here. I decided to do them a little differently also.

I did not use any plywood in the construction of the tank. Most of the screws used in this are pocket hole screws. Once testing was done I filled it up and let it run for a month in the garage. I disassembled everything and took the photos of it disassembled. When reassembling after making some changes it was also glued along with the screws. The pocket holes were plugged also. So there are no exposed screws. I will start with the canopy since that is where I originally started. I have photos of the parts along with partial assemblies I will be posting. I will do it in sections so I can try and keep the photos down for each post.

 

[JohnL]

Beautiful work

 

[n2585722]

Beautiful work

Thank you, it was defiantly a learning experence.

 

[n2585722]

Canopy Build Inner Frame:
The canopy was the first thing I built on this build. Everything was assembled and tested. I then disassembled so I could make minor changes and then permanently assemble the canopy. The first photo is of most of the parts to the canopy. This photo was taken between disassembly and reassembly. I have a table saw, router table and a drill press. I am not sure this could have been done without those tools. I also have the Kreg pocket hole fixture. The doors are raised panel doors and consist of five pieces of wood.

The canopy consist of an inner frame and an outer frame. The inner frame sits on top of the tank and the outer frame is attached to the inner frame and drops below the top of the tank enough to hide the surface of the tank. I will start with the inner frame here. Below is the sections for the top inner frame with a cutout for the inner top for the LED lighting.

Below is the top inner frame assembled. View of the top and bottom.

Below is the bottom inner fame and vertical post. The bottom inner frame looks the same as the top except it does not have a cutout on the top side for the inner top assembly. So I am not posting photos of it.

Below is the parts for the inner top assembly. There is a cutout for the acrylic cover on the LED assembly. This partitions off the area with electronics from the area with water.

Below is the inner top assembled. there are some cutouts in the back to clear the hinge for the top lid which is part of the outer frame assembly.

Below is a photo of the bottom side of the inner top. Once it was glued together the pocket holes were plugged and sanded down flush.

The next two photos of the inner frame are when it was assembled and had some primer applied. I did not find any of it assembled and just bare wood. The first one is of the top side. The two pocket holes at each corner is for attaching the side panels. Those are left unplugged so the side panels can be removed but they are in the electronics area and not exposed to the saltwater. The bottom photo is from the bottom. There is a section cut out of the frame at the back for the overflow.

That is about it for the inner frame for now. Next will be the outer frame.

 

[n2585722]

Before getting into the outer frame I figured I would go over how I got the pattern cut into the sections of the upper and lower outer frame assembly. Below is a photo of a section for the top outer frame assembly. This is a bottom view showing the pattern cut into the section. This pattern matches the top or bottom of one of the side panels. I used some templates I made for this and the router table.

Below is the templates I made along with a fixture I made to help position them on a section. Below that is a uncut section. Both the top and bottom are the same except the bottom sections have some of the inside removed down to the cutout pattern.

Below the section has been inserted into the fixture.

Below the templates have double sided tape added to them so they can be attached to the section to be cut. now it is just a matter of attaching them to the section in the frame.

Below one of the templates have been attached to the section in the frame.

Below both templates have been attanced.

Below the section has been removed from the frame and is ready for the cutout.

Below is the section out of the frame and the bit used to make the cut. On this bit the guide bearing is at the bottom of the bit. The guide bearing is position so it rides on the templates with the bit at the height needed for the cut.

Below is the section ready for the cut. After the cut it will look like the first photo.

I think I will do the side panels next so you cans see why the need for this cut.

 

[n2585722]

Now for the side panels. There are six parts to the side panel less the door. The top rail has a 15 degree slant down toward the inside on the bottom. This will be apparent in one of the other photos. Also there is a pattern cut out of the top for air flow into the top compartment of the canopy for ventilation and LED heat sink cooling. The bottom rail has a 15 degree slant down toward the inside also.

Below is a closer look at the vertical parts of the side panel. The one on the left is part of the column that is formed where two side panels come together. The other vertical piece next to it has an angle cut in it to match side of the column correctly.

This photo show the inside part on the piece that forms the column. The cutout in the back matches the inner frame. The one with the three holes for the mtg screws. The front cutout is for a decorative insert in the column to hide where the two side panels meet. The front edge of this piece is rounded.

This is a photo of the top rail piece where you can see the pattern cut for ventilation. and the 15 degree slant.

Below is the bottom rail where you can see the 15 degree slant and the pocket holes for assembly.

Below are the pieces for the door assembly. The sections that go across are called rails and the vertical sections are called stiles. The raised panel is in the center. There are router bit sets you use to create these parts. It takes several passes on each side to complete. It is best to do several parts at a time once you have things setup for a cut.

Below is the front of an almost complete side panel. The door still needs the 1/4 round cut around the front outer sides to complete the door.

Below is a completed side panel from the back side.

Below is the side panel with the door opened.

The side panel for the back is different in it does not have a bottom rail or door. Below is the completed side panel for the back.

That is it for the side panels. Next will be the outer frame.

 

[Reefing102]

Some amazing woodwork!

 

[Reefing102]

Some amazing woodwork!

 

[n2585722]

Some amazing woodwork!

Thank you, I defiantly learned a lot doing this build. It turned out good enough my wife wants me to make her some new kitchen cabinets.

 

[Reefing102]

Lol time to add to the honey-do list lol

 

[VWD]

Nice work, it’s a beautiful set up.

 

[Vinny Kreyling]

Honey Do List Coming.
& all because your work is very good!

 

[n2585722]

Nice work, it’s a beautiful set up.

Thank you.

 

[n2585722]

@Vinny Kreyling and @reefing102 I made a cabinet for the garage just to see if I could make one. It is double sided and one end will go against a wall. I am going let her pick out what she want to finish them with. Here are a couple of photos on my first go at cabinets. I think my honey do list just got even larger.

 

[n2585722]

Canopy Build Outer Frame:

Ok, now to the lower and upper outer frame. The first photo is of the six sections on the lower frame from the bottom ready for assembly.

Below is a photo of the assembled lower frame, bottom view.

Below is the lower outer frame, top view. It is easier to see the pattern and what it will look like in the photo.

Below is a photo of the six sections of the top outer frame and the section for the lid hinges, bottom view.

Below is the top outer frame assembled, bottom view.

Below is the top outer frame, top view. Here you can see the inside cuts for the lid. Also the section for mounting the lid hinges is attached.

Below is the sections for the lid. Bottom View. On the right section you can see the holes for the hinges. Also the bottom front and four side are cut out to mate with the top outer frame.

Below is a photo of the lid assembled, bottom view.

Below is the top view of the assembled lid. The cutout in the center is for the exhaust fans for cooling the heat sink and ventilation of the electronics area below the lid.

next will be some photos of the assembled canopy before the sections were disassembled. After disassembly they were reassembled with glue, screws and dowels. The photos here were taken as it was disassembled to make final changes and reassembled.

 

[n2585722]

Canopy Build No Stain:

Here is a photo of the canopy before it was disassembled before final assembly. Noting was glued here so the fit is not as close as once it was glued. Also the doors do not have the 1/4 round cut around the front edges. Also the cutout in the lid was not done yet in this photo. I used a template drilled a hole larger than the router bit and used the router to make the cutout.

Below is with the doors open. You can see the bottom of the inner frame that will sit on top of the tank.

Below is a close up of the corner. Here you can see the openings where air will flow into the electronics compartment for ventilation. I was trying to come up with a way that would not be conspicuous and this is what I came up with. All sides and the front have this. The back does not. Also you can see the insert with the pattern. I got these strips from home depot and cut them to length.

Below is the same corner. Since it was not yet glued there was no sanding at this point.

Below is the back of the canopy. The inner frame had not had the section cut for the overflow. Also the lower outer frame was also trimmed so the over flow would fit.

This photo was after the assemblies were glued and sanded from the top. It was also sitting on top of the stand here.

Photo below with the lid open. It was taken at the same time as the photo above.

Below is a photo with the acrylic barrier in place. This is to keep water and water vapor out of the electronics area but allow light from the LED's to get to the water.

Below is a photo with the LED heat sink in place.

Below is a photo of the inserts used in the column to hide where the side panels come together.

 

[Reefing102]

Looking really good. When put together almost looks like an ornate end table that you could hide liquor in

 

[Vinny Kreyling]

Soft closures on the drawers?
You might have found your 2nd career!
Custom Cabinetry

 

[n2585722]

Soft closures on the drawers?
You might have found your 2nd career!
Custom Cabinetry

Yes, the doors and drawers have the soft closure mechanism. It was not that much difference in cost and it gives me a chance to try them out. So far I like them and think they are worth the extra cost. I have it setting in the garage now where I want it. I just have to come up with the counter top. Before I retired I was an engineering technician in implant at NXP semiconductor. My expertise is in electronics mostly, but ion implanters also have a lot of mechanical and pneumatic systems in them as well. I worked at the same site for 30 years. It started out as Motorola and changed to Freescale. Then NXP bought out Freescale.

 

[n2585722]

Canopy Assembled, Stained and Painted:

Below is a photo of the bottom of the top outer frame and lid assembly stained and ready. The black blocks are the mounting points for this assembly to the inner frame assembly. You can see the plugs on the inside of the lid but this cannot be seen unless the lid is opened. The lid does not get opened very often. If I need to remove one of the side panels I would first remove this assembly. I have some photos of this assembly and the side panels that were removed after a few years to add some covers to match what was done it the stand. I will post them next. The stain I used was Minwax PolyShades Bombay Mahogany.

Below is a top view of the finished lid assembly.

Below is a photo of the back with the back cover removed. There are two assembly's that you can mount up to three keystone couplers. Two in each are in use. One for the 25v, one for 12v on the left for LED lighting power and fan power. One on the right is a RJ45 for getting signals up to the LED drivers. The second is a RJ12 connector which is the connector used on the Digital Aquatics RKE, RKL and Archon controllers to go from module to module. The part painted black here is a plate for mounting conduit that runs from the back cabinet which is a part of the stand to this bracket. This keeps the wiring away from the water once the back cover is in place.

The photo below is a view from a lower angle that shows the two holes for the conduit.

Below is a photo with the conduit connected and the overflow in place. The two connectors dangling on the right power the ventilation fans mounted in the back cover which is off in the photo. The wire on the left is a spare I ran with the other wires. In this photo you can see the two screws that attach the lower outer frame to the bottom of the side panels. These are some of the few screws that are not covered by plugs. This allows removal of a side panel if it is ever needed.

Below is a photo with the doors open. The blue tape on top was attached to the lid so I could get it open easily at the time. it is normally not there.

The photo below is a view of the top. In the back you can see the top of the back cover.

The photo below is a view of the inside of the canopy. You can see that the bottom of the upper inner frame is angled down toward the inside. This matches the angle on the top rail of the side panels. The top of the bottom inner frame is also angled down toward the inside. This also matches the angle on the top of the bottom rail of the side panel. All the areas that are exposed to the water are painted white except for the inside of the doors to begin with. The stand doors has covers for the inside of the doors which are painted white. I did add them to the doors of the canopy, but it took a couple of years to get it done.

The photo below is a view from the front door opening. It has a little better angle to see the LED's through the acrylic.