Hippo tang with white spots

Mike Savino

New member
My hippo tang has white spots and I'm almost positive it's ick. I bought a qt tank and a filter but I have a heater coming in the mail, I got API super ick cure and I'll put him in the qt tank when I get the heater, is this a good tactic for going about this, the hippo yang is only one and a half inches long so I got the biggest qt tank I could but the pet store near me only had a2 gallon fish bowl
 
I've heard people have hippos with white spots on the surviving for a long time, before I move to the qt is it necessary, a video on YouTube shows a hippo that is still living 7 years after white spots appeared..
 
You will need to cure him of the ich. Please read the stickies at the top of Fish Disease Treatment forum. There is a lot of snake oil out there that does nothing to help eradicate the parasite. I use the tank transfer method. If the tang has ich and he has been in your DT, then your DT now has ich and must stay fish free for 72 days to complete the life cycle .
 
A fish does not have to have physical signs to have ich. They easily can be in the gills without you knowing. I assume all do.
 
In addition if the LFS is running a low level of copper it will mask the disease. Which is why 4 to 6 weeks in QT is recommended. It can take 30 days for some diseases to rear their ugly head in clean water.
 
In addition if the LFS is running a low level of copper it will mask the disease. Which is why 4 to 6 weeks in QT is recommended. It can take 30 days for some diseases to rear their ugly head in clean water.

Again, I agree.
 
Unfortunately Hippo tangs are one of the worst fish for contracting ich. All the advice above is correct, although I would say to go AT LEAST 72 days fallow, there have been reports of 72 days not being enough. If you do tank transfer, you'll need to buy a lot more equipment, including 2 decent size quarantine tanks. 2 gallons is going to cause problems.
Finally I'd say once the tang is cured to try and sell it, these fish should be listed as expert in my opinion, they are so sensitive to stress and if you do want one I'd consider putting it with non aggressive tankmates and not until your reef is established.
 
Unfortunately Hippo tangs are one of the worst fish for contracting ich. All the advice above is correct, although I would say to go AT LEAST 72 days fallow, there have been reports of 72 days not being enough. If you do tank transfer, you'll need to buy a lot more equipment, including 2 decent size quarantine tanks. 2 gallons is going to cause problems.
Finally I'd say once the tang is cured to try and sell it, these fish should be listed as expert in my opinion, they are so sensitive to stress and if you do want one I'd consider putting it with non aggressive tankmates and not until your reef is established.

Not so much more equipment and definitely not a great expense compared to the cost of any marine tropical.
 
I'm getting cupramine Friday. I got a 10 gallon QT tank today and I have a filter for it, I'm also getting a heater for it Friday but I'm getting an tofu system Saturday, should I put rodi water in the 10 gallon on Saturday and start the quarantine then or use the tank water for it Friday
 
Not so much more equipment and definitely not a great expense compared to the cost of any marine tropical.

Well he will need at bare minimum 2 heaters, an air pump, 2 thermometers and more importantly 2 'containers' bigger that 2 gallons, one of these should be an aquarium for normal quarantine purposes anyway.
 
I'm getting cupramine Friday. I got a 10 gallon QT tank today and I have a filter for it, I'm also getting a heater for it Friday but I'm getting an tofu system Saturday, should I put rodi water in the 10 gallon on Saturday and start the quarantine then or use the tank water for it Friday

I'd personally use fresh saltwater because in essence it would be at least one tank transfer. If you are going the copper route do you have an accurate copper test kit yet? It's essential you keep the copper at the correct dose for the whole duration of the treatment.
 
Well he will need at bare minimum 2 heaters, an air pump, 2 thermometers and more importantly 2 'containers' bigger that 2 gallons, one of these should be an aquarium for normal quarantine purposes anyway.

Buy it once and done. It is not a cheap hobby, but the basics are pretty inexpensive. Compare it, for example, to the costs of running a zeovit system.
 
Buy it once and done. It is not a cheap hobby, but the basics are pretty inexpensive. Compare it, for example, to the costs of running a zeovit system.

I'll never understand the misconception of zeovit being expensive. I bought zeobak for $68, Zeostart3 for $95 and Sponge Power for $75, I have at least half of each the bottles left after 6 months dosing. I do spend $33 a month on Zeovit stones however, but even so it works out at about $12 a week to run zeovit, I spend more a week on RO/DI water!
I don't spend money on any phosphate remover, no ozone, no UV, just zeovit and carbon.
 
I'll never understand the misconception of zeovit being expensive. I bought zeobak for $68, Zeostart3 for $95 and Sponge Power for $75, I have at least half of each the bottles left after 6 months dosing. I do spend $33 a month on Zeovit stones however, but even so it works out at about $12 a week to run zeovit, I spend more a week on RO/DI water!
I don't spend money on any phosphate remover, no ozone, no UV, just zeovit and carbon.

Reality is relative. You are running a 150 gallon tank; I have about 650 gallons of display (2 tanks).
 
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