Home Made Apex leak detector probe

FWIW, you can run any kind of small gauge wire to the breakout box. Strip the ends bare and keep them slightly apart. Any water collecting by the bare ends will make a connection and turn the 'switch' from open to closed. You can then program apex to alert or take some kind of action.
 
ca1ore said:
FWIW, you can run any kind of small gauge wire to the breakout box. Strip the ends bare and keep them slightly apart. Any water collecting by the bare ends will make a connection and turn the 'switch' from open to closed. You can then program apex to alert or take some kind of action.
Click to expand...

Makes perfect sense, thanks
 
All I used was a single line telephone cord (2 wires in center connector) and cut a small plastic canvas in a small square. Stripped two bare wires (for size reference I used a wire from a dead computer power supply) and weaved it through the canvas square as shown in picture. Both wires need to be next to each other so weave wire through one row and skip the next row. Weave the second wire through the skipped rows. Be careful not to touch wires while crossing at row ends. Carefully soldered the wires so they stick to the plastic canvas. Cut off one end of the tele cord connecter, strip both wires and solder the ends to sensor wires. Make sure there are no tiny wire strands shorting out the sensor I twisted the copper wire and added little solder to keep it neat before installing. Folded a napkin and sat the sensor on top. Dropped a few drops of water around the outside of napkin and sensor detected it immediately very sensitive. This was my second sensor I made.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vpmxmirh7z1mlhh/IMG_5343.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2e0hrj1sr2m2h8z/IMG_5342.JPG?dl=0
 
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I have a question if anyone can help. I figure the sensors won't be going off that often but like to make them last. Is there something available I can coat them with so they be rust proof? Does solder rust?
 
Telephone line is copper so it won't rust per se. It may corrode (turn green). I just trim mine every 6 months or so to expose a fresh wire end.
 
I found some leak detectors on sale at home Depot. I cut the alarm off and wired the end to my breakout box. It's cool how creative you can get with the breakout box.
 
Made 3 today, one with a 4ft, 6ft, and 8ft cable. Used red canvas mesh(same as my ATS), and some 18g wire, and a small bit of solder to stiffen it up.







$13 versus $89.97 in just sensors, Thanks guys!

Paired with my DIY Dual(12pin total) Break Out Box($24.40 for 12pins, not 6) that I use with a handful of other float switches, http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2383435 .

So 3 leak sensing probes($13), a BOB ($12/using half of the above BOB build) setup for under $26, versus almost $165 for a module and 3 probes. Not bad!
 
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FullBoreReefer said:
Made 3 today, one with a 4ft, 6ft, and 8ft cable. Used red canvas mesh(same as my ATS), and some 18g wire, and a small bit of solder to stiffen it up.







$13 versus $89.97 in just sensors, Thanks guys!

Paired with my DIY Dual(12pin total) Break Out Box($24.40 for 12pins, not 6) that I use with a handful of other float switches, http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2383435 .

So 3 leak sensing probes($13), a BOB ($12/using half of the above BOB build) setup for under $26, versus almost $165 for a module and 3 probes. Not bad!
Click to expand...
Thats my thinking why pay so much when they can be made very easily. They work just the same if not better in my opinion. You can make them as long as you want or even daisy chain them together with connectors. Perfect for using one port for a long perimeter around the tank.
 
Nice little hack. But as to why commercially available sensors are so expensive? Besides Manufacturer to Wholesaler to Retailer markup, you have things like UL testing, development costs (engineers aren't cheap) and the like. The only issue I can see from your sensors is that you have a live wire in water that could possibly be a shock hazard (which wouldn't pass UL certification). I would hope that there is some sort of current limitation to power the sensor line.
 
LostShoopuf said:
Nice little hack. But as to why commercially available sensors are so expensive? Besides Manufacturer to Wholesaler to Retailer markup, you have things like UL testing, development costs (engineers aren't cheap) and the like. The only issue I can see from your sensors is that you have a live wire in water that could possibly be a shock hazard (which wouldn't pass UL certification). I would hope that there is some sort of current limitation to power the sensor line.
Click to expand...

I thought connected to a ALD module would take care of that issue.
 
LostShoopuf said:
Nice little hack. But as to why commercially available sensors are so expensive? Besides Manufacturer to Wholesaler to Retailer markup, you have things like UL testing, development costs (engineers aren't cheap) and the like. The only issue I can see from your sensors is that you have a live wire in water that could possibly be a shock hazard (which wouldn't pass UL certification). I would hope that there is some sort of current limitation to power the sensor line.
Click to expand...

I run 480v to mine bahaha JK Last time I put a meter on my BOB it measured around 3.3v, so it's very very minimal.
 
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The ALD might take care of the current limiting, and I would hope so, but I would advise against assuming. It depends on how they implemented the design. A good practice would be to put the current limiting resistor in the ALD box, but I've seen some designs that don't.

FullBore, I'll take that as a dare to design one for you. ;)

It isn't going to take much for a current from your sensor to either shock you, or energize your system (with a current flow up the leak if it's constant), even at low voltage levels.
 
LostShoopuf said:
The ALD might take care of the current limiting, and I would hope so, but I would advise against assuming. It depends on how they implemented the design. A good practice would be to put the current limiting resistor in the ALD box, but I've seen some designs that don't.

FullBore, I'll take that as a dare to design one for you. ;)

It isn't going to take much for a current from your sensor to either shock you, or energize your system (with a current flow up the leak if it's constant), even at low voltage levels.
Click to expand...

I do see your point, good thing programming allows for equipment to be shut down. 3.3v is nothing, it's the amps that kill...
 
FullBoreReefer said:
Made 3 today, one with a 4ft, 6ft, and 8ft cable. Used red canvas mesh(same as my ATS), and some 18g wire, and a small bit of solder to stiffen it up.







$13 versus $89.97 in just sensors, Thanks guys!

Paired with my DIY Dual(12pin total) Break Out Box($24.40 for 12pins, not 6) that I use with a handful of other float switches, http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2383435 .

So 3 leak sensing probes($13), a BOB ($12/using half of the above BOB build) setup for under $26, versus almost $165 for a module and 3 probes. Not bad!
Click to expand...
sweet man when its not late I am going to look in to this DIY break out box and leak detectors. just got my fancy new apex so saving a lil $$ is right up my ally.
 
Old thread but what kind of phone wire did you use and did it snap right into the ald module? Could we also possible hook up an optical sensor to phone wire then to the ald?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
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