homer1475's Biocube 29 Build Thread

[champion6sigma]

Wow......

Just got an email from steve over at SCA. He wants to give me an 80G PNP system for the same price as he quoted me for the 66. If the deal is still good in a couple weeks when I get my income tax refund, I'll be owning an 80G lol

Same footprint tank, just 4" deeper. 32x24x24. My thinking is with the deeper tank, I can mount the lights closer to reach the bottom, and in turn eliminating more light bleed as the lights will be closer to the water.

My tank is 24 depth. All lights from this decade can probably hit that depth. LED's will do it EZ.

Keep in mind depending on the size of light you get...you might need to consider mounting options that allow the light to be moved out of way...the new red sea max system which uses hydras has a unique bracket arm that actually pivots straight up so you can access DT for maintenance...etc..

Not sure if that makes sense..you current tank has hinges right? that allow you to lift the canopy up and out of way. sort of my my old red sea max that was enclosed.

many mounting options, like mine for my ecotech are permanent meaning I'd have to unscrew things to remove it.

So that being said..the lower I had my light...the harder it was to access my tank regularly. the easier it was to splash water into the thing. (even using a pitcher to slowly pour water in).

I guess point I'm trying to say is that you still can't go too low or you will have certain salt creep, water hitting, obtrusive light in way, etc... your reasoning is perfect but it makes things harder overall. I had to raise mine twice since installing.

If you get a coollooking t5 setup which is a substantial rectangular shape...most are hung from ceilings or using custom brackets with hanging mounts...but you cant go too low on those for same reasons...and they block more of top then ecotech or hydras do.

I almost got the cadlights tank light brackets which mount to the stand and allow customable height but found something different.

Just something to think about...I think I started off 5/6 inches from water and kept moving up and up. Some lights need to be lower....such as those that have built in stand and can "rest" on top of the tank that is covered. Some LED's need a certain height off water to get the width required..and so the lower you go the less light you get on the corners and edges of tank.

Each light company can have different spreads on their lights so it does change the recommended heights. The closer you get the height correct to their recommendations for light spread...less likely you will get excess light spill.

More importantly than light coverage or spillage is probably just easy tank access and salt creep avoidance.

 

[champion6sigma]

I think the biocube is going to end up being a replacement for the 20GFW tank, or might throw it up on CL, havent really decided yet.

I'm not on facebook(I loathe that site), and never will be!

Yes I'm a preferred reefer on BRS and have used my points quite well already(got my reactor for only 10$), so its only 4.99$ flat 2 days shipping.

LOL. I HAAATTTEEE facebook.

I will never ever be a member. In fact I won't get any products they own(like any virtual reality headsets from oculus rift which they bought)

Probably hate them as much as apple.

 

[champion6sigma]

I'd recommended researching light setups from people here who have the exact same tank dimensions you end up getting. Also...look at youtube! Then you can see real time the lights, the height off tank, and the light bleed in action...

And remember, I've been using that word a lot but I don't want you to think its some ridiculous light amount or that people sitting near a tank are blinded . Its nothing like that. Its just something to consider...I'd say...for if you have it near a tv or other light source, Thats all. just wanted to make you aware of the change you will expect...which was a change for me.

 

[homer1475]

Been doing a lot of reading in the Mars Aqua threads. I think I'm going to order up 2 of the 165W units. Similar depth tanks are mounting them 8 to 10 inches off the water. 185$ bucks for LED lighting that everyone is having great growth with seems like a no brainer to me. It does require a small mod to get dimming with an apex, but no big deal.

I've already thought up a slick mount for the lights so they will swing to the sides allowing for access to the entire top of the tank.

 

[champion6sigma]

Been doing a lot of reading in the Mars Aqua threads. I think I'm going to order up 2 of the 165W units. Similar depth tanks are mounting them 8 to 10 inches off the water. 185$ bucks for LED lighting that everyone is having great growth with seems like a no brainer to me. It does require a small mod to get dimming with an apex, but no big deal.

I've already thought up a slick mount for the lights so they will swing to the sides allowing for access to the entire top of the tank.

That marsaqua looks very cool! I just found a big thread on it, possibly the one you read.

Is two 150's better than getting one 300?

i read the newer ones are programmable

 

[champion6sigma]

I think I'm going to have to get a par meter to test my system. I'm still trying to figure out settings...

I'll be interested to see that setup with the swing action in place! You are thinking ahead.

 

[soulpatch]

Some people used cantilever TV mounts to be able to have a bracket move around. I was going to go that route with my initial cube tank.

That said I would suggest T5 for a tank that size so you get full light spread and don't have any of the typical LED shadowing issues especially if you are going to keep rocking acans and such...

 

[champion6sigma]

TV mounts that is awesome idea! Have u seen the new e5's or whatever they are called? Efficient ones?

 

[soulpatch]

THe new LED T5? That completely defeats the purpose of T5 IMHO.

 

[champion6sigma]

I feel stupid. I had seen an advertisement for e5 new tubes I thought they were a more efficient design I didn't know it was just an led array that has t5 fittings...u r right defeats purpose. I liked the gieselman brand t5 and led combo at brs

 

[ReefWreak]

Lol the E5s. We'll see. I was just reading a thread in the FMAS forum on it. Good if you NEED LED actinic pop. Other than that, it's silly. Neat idea though!

 

[ReefWreak]

And yea, the Giesemann lights (and Pacific Sun) are really nice T5/LED combo fixtures.

 

[homer1475]

A TV mount is exactly what I was thinking actually. I have an old platform mount for the old picture tube TV's. Anyways the platform is removable which leaves me with a wall mount and upside down goose neck from which I'll hang the lights from. Best thin is its all powder coated black and will swing the lights to the left or right.

 

[homer1475]

I just called and ordered my tank!!!

80G SC aquariums PNP system 28G sump.

The biocube will eventually be tore down and resold as it sits. Only things coming off it are the mp10's, apex, mj1200 pump, and the upgraded sicce pump(I'll use these to plumb in my reactors). I will hard plumb in the reactors when I get to that part, but will use the stock return for now, and I don't believe it will push enough GPH.

Still need to wait for the tax refund before I can get the lights, sand, more rock, etc, etc, that I'll need to get it setup. Besides I want to seal and paint the interior of the stand to avoid moisture issues.

So, I guess I have a biocube with rapid LED aurora puck for sale.

 

[soulpatch]

Congrats. I suggest getting some dry rock to go with your existing live rock to save some costs. reef cleaners rock is pretty nice.

Also sand from Amazon is much cheaper than anywhere else i have looked.

I still suggest a T5 unit. You are looking at like $4-600 to be set and a few bucks each year for new bulbs is a drop in the bucket.

 

[Nick James]

Congrats on the new tank homer!

 

[champion6sigma]

Awesome!

What about keeping cube as a quarentine?

 

[ReefWreak]

Congrats on the new setup. Lots of fun ahead. And you get to take all of your gained knowledge and apply it again! The funny thing for me when starting this cube is that I had no idea how to re-start a tank again, after not having started one in a while. It always helps to get other newbies or people with new tanks started so you can keep refreshing your mind on early stage concerns.

 

[champion6sigma]

FYI you can not do a bean animal with an internal overflow the way theirs are designed. I suppose you technically could with the return running over the tank, but you would never be circulating the water that's coming in from the bottom wiers, and a ton of junk would settle down there. You would need a shorter overflow and not one that reaches the entire depth of the tank.

To keep the nice clean look, I'm going to do a herbie with the third drilled hole for the return.

I'm researching herbies, seems they are better than dorso . quieter. siphon works for better flow. I can get away with dorso on a smaller tank but for a large one....herbie might be the only option. I wonder iF I can do an easy switch.

 

[soulpatch]

Herbie is ALWAYS a better option then durso regardless of tank size since it has an emergency and is dead silent. Bean is slightly better then herbie since it allows for a bit more water level fluctuation so less tuning.