Horrible Horrible Anemone

[1GoldClown]

Sweet sounding to me!!! I would really like to invest in something like this and my first idear was a goby and shrimp team with some small muchrooms or something. Would this be ideal for something this small? And would that 70w power enough for mushrooms or other less-demanding coral?

 

[Slakker]

70w should be enough for just about anything you would want to keep in a tank that size.

 

[garygb]

Both mushrooms and flower anemones would do fine with 70 watt MH. I think biotopes that include animals from a specific location is a nice idea. If you decide to go with flower anemones, other locals would be ricordia, mushrooms, and zoanthids. This could make a nice looking display for you. In a hex, you could have a tall mound of live rock in the center and have the anemones and corals all along the rockwork and some on the substrate as well. Will you have a sump where all the equipment will be housed? You will want to have a filter for activated carbon and preferably a protein skimmer too.

 

[garygb]

Here's a thread about sexual reproduction of E. crucifer and some pics: http://www.michiganreefers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47430

 

[1GoldClown]

Thank You everyone on this thread that helped me.

 

[1GoldClown]

Thank You everyone on this thread that helped me.

Gary- I am not running a sump on the 17gal. I bought an Aquaclear30 hang-on-back filter and I was thinking of using a Petco brand protien skimmer or even a biocube protien skimmer. Once again this tank was meant for a small bioload and low community...very low. Like I said my original idea was a watchman gobie and the shrimp that will tag-along with him, and that was it. I also thought of putting my clown and anemone only that I have housed in the 29G.

 

[garygb]

You might be fine with just an aquaclear as long as you run activated carbon and change it regularly. My guess is that you would be. Protein skimmers are great, but with a low bioload and with animals that tend to tolerate less pristine conditions, you should be fine. Keep us posted.

 

[1GoldClown]

I just went a bought a test kit by API and tested my tank for the following with results: cal. 360, dkh. 13 drops at 17.9, nitrate 0-5, phosphate 20ppm. Now from what the kit tells me that is horrible and this would be a first time for me testing my own tank. Some test may not have been done to the T but im no idiot when it comes to instructions! Anyway lemme know what this all means and what you think? I also purchased another dual compact 50/50 light for the lighting and fed the shrimp but I think i gave him to much at once.

 

[garygb]

The phosphate is extremely high, but nitrates are good. Having high phosphates generally means you are inundated with algae. You can run phosphate absorbing filter media or a sump with chaetomorpha in it will get rid of the phosphate. High phosphate levels result from overfeeding/high bioload. You might want to test the phosphate against another kit just to see if that is accurate or not. I know some phosphate filter media is better than others, you might want to search on RC to find "best phosphate absorbing media."

 

[irocz2280]

i have had 4 of those coralife therm. and if you ask me they are the most unreliable thermo's out there my suggestion is to get a good ole glass thermo or 2 and place one up high and one down low not one of my digital thermo's read within 3 degrees of the glass but both glass thermo's read the same they are the most accurate and reliable unless you go with lab grade equipment that can be calibrated often

 

[1GoldClown]

Yea the thermo is a total waste of anything. My recent water tests are showing that my calcium is also low around 360-370 and my phosphate nitrates are there but very minimal. Water changes with Instant Ocean have been started. For the life of the tank I have always used the saltwater my LFS would make and they used normal salt (because of the quantity) and I think in my 5gal water jugs there was a green algae inside that I think contributed to a green algal problem I had. I also had to replace my aquarium for the glass seperated during a water change and started a very small leak. Pictures can be posted if wanted. I took some of the rock out of the tank and put it into my hex so my aquascape is now different and the anemone stayed in the same spot on the same rock positioned now on the other side of the tank. As for the anemone his body/mouth looks fuller and the color is coming back but he is still stringy looking and he loved the table shrimp. will keep posted

 

[Big Brother]

Ok, I'm going to admit that I did not read every post in this thread, but why isn't anyone else shocked?

That nem is freaky looking! I have never seen a BTA do that, has anybody else?

I mean whatever issue it is (lighting, temp, parameters, etc.) I would not expect it to look like that.

 

[jreeceaspen]

MH's!

 

[Kabuto]

Here is my 29g with 2x65watt CF. Anemone started off as little thing and has split four times and keeps growing.

 

[garygb]

Beautiful anemones Kabuto. For BTA's, PC is definitely a good choice as long as the bulbs are changed before they get too old and the anemone is kept within 12 or so inches from the bulbs.

 

[1GoldClown]

12 inchs being no more than or no less than because as previously posted mine is like 14 inchs. And Jreecaespen I had a 250w MH above him and I think that is what originally started this look. It is freaky looking yes and some of his tentacle are even starting new ones, almost like they are splitting.

 

[andygb54303]

am i really reading this PC light and anemones, DUH of course its not doing well.

 

[GoBigOrGoHome]

Although its not ideal conditions for all anemones, there is no saying that low light will kill an anemone. It's higher risk to put an anemone in low-light conditions, but if your other husbandry is top-notch you will probably have a very very healthy anemone on your hands. I currently have an RBTA in my biocube. It split. Obviously, not doing too poorly. I acclimated it from Overdriven HOT-5's down to HO T-5's, then down to the wimpy PC lighting of the Biocube, and it continues to thrive. Why? I feed it well, water quality is exceptional, and water circulation is just right.

If there's one thing I've learned from reefkeeping, its that there is almost never one single factor that can kill a reef animal. If you've got poor lighting, keep your other areas up to snuff, and you just might come out of it okay. Might not be ideal, but you can still have a healthy animal.

 

[1GoldClown]

I just took another water test this week before my water change and it came in as 14Dkh alk, calc. 360ppm, 0 ppm phosphate and 5.0-10 ppm nitrate. Last week the tests were similar but at least im making them move and this time im watching it.

GoBig- thank you and I agree but I think at this point my husbandry skills are lacking perfection. Im trying hard as an amateur too.

 

[Kabuto]

Your Alk and Ca are way out of whack. Alk should be ~8-9dKH with a Ca of 420ppm. Up you Ca. Also check your water change water before it goes into the tank.

What are you feeding it? I did mysis shrimp and silversides cut up.